Pillar to action mating surfaces

I hate angled mating surfaces of standard action screws. There is precious little contact and if the pillar isn't in there correctly, the screw goes wonky until the angles finally match up. Certainly, there is enough tolerance in the threads to accomodate this...but then why go through all the work of getting the pillars in perfectly in the first place? My first choice is always a counter bored pillar using a flanged button head screw for maximum contact.

When forced to use the angled style screw, I've had good luck with these. There's a lot of contact area and the trigger guard uses a small screw that threads into the recessed Allen head of the action screw. That way, the trigger guard plays no part in the bedding. This gun was a LV 30BR Panda of mine that Stan Ware did a 'Pand-iak' recoil lug conversion on (cross between a Panda and a Kodiak). Pics aren't the greatest but hopefully this gets the idea across.

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Here's a better view of a counter bored pillar. A flanged button head screw gives plenty of contact between the under head of the screw and the pillar. The hole in the pillar is 5/16 and a flanged Delrin sleeve (.312 O.D./.250 I.D.) fits in the counter bored hole in the pillars and precisely locates the action screw guide pins. When the sleeves are removed, the screws are perfectly centered with .031 clearance all around.

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Guide pins protruding through the sleeves as the bedding sets up:

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Here, you can see the pillars about .125 below the bedding. I use a .125 spacer between the action and pillars, do the bedding, then add a dab of bedding to the top of the pillars and put the barrelled action back in to finish the bedding:

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Al,

I like your system, thank you for sharing. I am about to bed a 700 SA into a H&S BDL stock for hunting, I will try to copy your system on this one.

Do you see any drawback in using your system on a BDL bottom metal?

Nez
 
Nez, it works great on the HS aluminum bedding blocks. On those, I epoxy the sleeve in from the bottom and let it set up. When doing the clean up after removing the action, a quick pass with a 5/16 drill bit spins 'em right out. Bedding the BDL bottom metal to the pillars is important also as it's never flat.

Looking forward to hearing your results. :) -Al
 
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Al Nyhus said:
Nez, it works great on the HS aluminum bedding blocks. On those, I epoxy the sleeve in from the bottom and let it set up. When doing the clean up after removing the action, A quick pass with a 5/16 drill bit spins 'em right out. Bedding the BDL bottom metal to the pillars is important also as it's never flat.

Looking forward to hearing your results. :) -Al
Click to expand...

Al,

Thank you for responding.

Nez
 
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