PEIRob & Al Nyus's Method's for determining freebore...

VaniB

New member
For anybody that is interested in determining "freebore" in their chamber, or what length to reload a cartridge so that the bullet should be seated against the lands, these two gentleman have provided some very helpfull tips.

I expounded on the process and found that by picking, choosing, and combining the best of the tips that these two men had offered and what worked best for me, I was able to finally (and positively) determine where the heck the lands in my bore were! :cool:

Al, I did not find it necessary to disassemble the Remington 700 bolt to remove the pin do this process....or even use the bolt at all. But thank you.....because in order to first try the procedure exactly as you suggested it, I had to first learn how to take the cotton picking 700 bolt apart. :confused: Man, the 700 bolt is stubborn and doesn't come apart easy like some other rifle bolts, and I must confess this was one of the reasons why I didn't want to try your method to begin with. :D But, after learning how to do that and what tools to use, it's now easy and is good knowledge for me to have gained and know in case I ever want to clean the inside of a Remington 700 bolt.

This is the variation of the two gentleman's tips that I found worked best for me (with my 20Tac.) in determing freebore and where the lands in the bore are:

1)OK....first.... seat a bullet tightly into a dummy case to maximum length, with open primer pocket.
2)Use a flame to smoke the bullet so it's covered with black soot. A candle provides a constant convenient source without constanly having to light matches and stink up the place, or burn your finger tips.
3)Using a pencil sharpner, point the end of a wooden dowel. Now blunt the end of it so it fits tight in the primer pocket. (Or, if you don't have a dowel, you can use any narrow rod or wire wrapped with a tape bushing to fit the primer pocket.)
4)Feed the dummy cartridge carefully into the chamber trying not to inadvertently touch and rub the soot off of the bullet on the way into the chamber.
5)GENTLY tap the case into the chamber using a mallet. (tap, not hammer)
6)Then slip a dowel (or fiberglass cleaning rod only) into the muzzle end, and tap the case out of the chamber.
7) Use, a magnifying glass (I use a 5x eye loop) to closely examine and find the 3 or more lands etched into the bullet.
8)Use very fine steel wool to polish and clean off the soot and all or most of the marks caused by the lands.
9)Use your seater die to seat the bullet a little deeper into the case. Then start the process again of smoking the bullet, and feeding it back into the bore.
10) You repeat this process until you find the lands are becoming lighter impressioned and finally stop showing up on the bullet.

I found that trying to use the bolt to seat the case into the bore was a hinderence because the extractor had a tendency to pull the case off to the side and drag it on the chamber walls on the way through aplying false marks....even if I used my pinky tip to try and keep it straight.

I also found it easier to observe land and bore marks on a blackened bullet, then on a bullet that had been polished with steel wool only (and had not been blackened.)

Anyway, I found that my 20Tac cartridge makes ligh but positive lands contact at about 2.280" OAL with the Sierra 39Gr bullets.

Thanks again to you two gentleman for having initially taken the time to guide me through the process.

If you would like to offer additional tips or counter anything here that I said, then feel free to do so, as I mentioned....this is simply what I found had worked best for me. :)
 
A while back a poster suggested that you use SILVER Sharpie from the school supply aisle instead of candle smoke or steel wool.............I've found this to be a useful tip.


al
 
:eek: No credit deserved here, if I manage to reapeat something accurately that I learned here I'm doing good.

Your correct reamer design means Dave Kiff is still the man ;)

Cheers,
Rob
 
Measure the freebore

About twenty years ago I wanted another .460WM but not another Mark V so I was going to have a reamer made with the same freebore as the Mark V, so I've designed a gadget to measure the freebore. I have used it ever since and it never failed.

Shoot well
Peter
 
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Guys I hope

That I didn't confuse you too much. I'm not very good in explaining things that one can actually understand.

Shoot well
Peter
 
More of explanation of post [5]

Not to confuse the post[5] I will explain a little bit more about this gadget here in this separate post.

Shoot well
Peter
 
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easier

to use a split necked case and a bullet comparator.
Jim
 
I was loading for a factory 22-250 last night and needed to determine where the lands started. I timed the process and it took me 15 minutes, including removing the firing pin and ejector.

Seeing how complex some can make a simple proceedure does have a high entertainment value, though....and we shouldn't underestimate that contribution. -Al
 
to use a split necked case and a bullet comparator.
Jim


Jim,

If you say it has worked for you, then I won't dispute it. But, I tried this method, and it is one way that I had come up with false readings.
Go look at my other recent thread accusing the gunsmith or the reamer maker of screwing up due to my improper readings. In my 20tac rifle, nothing short of a regular tightly seated bullet in a dummy case and VERY close examination of a blackened bullet through repetitive testing gave me accurate readings.

PPP MMM,

With all due respect, the time and trouble you went through to detail this device is appreciated....as it was a nice gesture on your part. But, I really can't imagine most folks being able to visualize and transform this vast and detailed amount of info into an actual working tool without your having layed out step-by-step diagrams or coinciding photos. If you were to do so, it would certainly be deservant of its own new thread.

Al,
Now I see where (I once again :rolleyes: ) strayed away from what you were trying to instruct. I had originally pondered removing the ejector, but a guy on the internet informed me that the ejector on the 700 bolt was held in place with a pin that would have to be hammered and driven out with a punch, and might become deformed and be a PIA to mess with. So I reverted to using a dowel to guide the case in.

Do I understand this correctly?.....
I presume, that without the ejector, I would have been able to hold the case and guide it in and out of the chamber straight without it ever inadvertently touching the chamber walls? This would prevent the distracting scratch marks that are produced on the bullet when I try to guide the bullet into the chamber by eye using the wooden dowel method. I realize, that if possible, it would better to use the bolt too, because the bolt will feed the case into the chamber exactly how the case will always sit in there.

I am satisfied with the results of my dowel method this time around. But in the future, when I need to do this for my next rifle, I'd prefer using your bolt method. Would you kindly provide input here and let me know if the ejector is easy enough to remove and is not something I will possibly mess up. (as that other gentleman suggested) I sure won't dispute if you say it's easy to remove, and I will not mess anything up attempting it.
 
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It isn't the extractor that Al is removing, it is the EJECTOR !

The extractor is riveted in, the EJECTOR is held in with a cross pin. Drive the pin out and remove the plunger and the spring.

Personally I'd just accept that you will get some scratches on the bullet, you will still see the land marks you are looking for and a scratch up one side will not interfere with that.

I agree with Al, you guys are making something simple a lot more complicated and a little less accurate with all this messing about with dowels and goodness knows what.



This is what I do, no marker pen, no dowels, no split cases etc etc ....

1. Full length size a case, or neck I suppose so long as it chambers readily, firm neck tension.

2. Seat a bullet kinda long, it needs to reach the lands.

3. Polish bullet with 0000 steel wool around the diameter, not up the length.

4. Chamber dummy round, no powder or primer of course, and remove.

5. Look for rifling marks on bullet, there should be some if not you need to seat longer and start over. If you can't get any marks seated as long as possible you can't use this method and can't seat on the lands.

6. Seat the bullet a bit deeper and polish the bullet with 0000 steel wool removing the marks.

7. Chamber again, the marks should be shorter this time.

8. Keep repeating the steps of seating a little deeper each time and polish the bullet until you reach a point where at one seating you had faint marks and at say a couple of thou deeper seating you have no marks. Obviously at the last seating when you had marks you were just on the lands. Seat a fresh bullet at the same seater setting, polish, chamber and confirm the very light land marks. Use this just contacting point as the datum reference for loading.

You need good lighting and maybe even a magnifying glass to help see the marks when they get faint.

Bryce
 
VaniB

I can see your point, but I don't have a camera. I agree it's complex to read, but it works. Once you have the tool made it's matter of 2 minutes to set the bullet exactly the way you want. The inner stem and the know pitch of its thread make this an absolute breez.

A simple explanation:

1 rod such as cleaning rod with a square/true end
2 collars with true faces/hole (to snugly fit the rod), such as 25mm in diameter and 25mm long, with screws.
1 bushing to fit into cartridge head with outer/inner thread 25mm long
1 stem to fit this inner thread with groove to allow jewellers screwdrive and long enough to reach to the case neck and still be hidden inside of the bushing
1 fired case with its head threaded to take the bushing and polished neck inside to allow for easy bullet manipulation
1 piece of L bend rod (5mm in diameter) to push the bullet into the troat an support it there

Measure the difference between the dummy cartridge loaded bullet and the same bullet in the throat/bore. Use the stem to regulate the bullet and use it to support the bullet each time


Shoot well
Peter
 
VaniB:

As Bryce points out, it's the ejector not the extractor that you may wish to remove..although you really don't need to do this to get the results you're after.

Here's a pic of the ejector to help you better visualize what we're talking about. The ejector goes in from the bolt face with the spring behind it on the smaller 'stem'. The pin that holds the assembly in place goes through the pin hole in the lug and lives in the 'cutout' part of the ejector proper, thus keeping the ejector from coming out. As a case enters the boltface, the ejector is pushed rearward by the case and exerts pressure on the case from a side angle. When the bolt is pulled rearward, the case is pushed outward in a direction toward the port by the spring pressure.

ejector.jpg
[/IMG]

If you take the ejector out, it would be the perfect time to reduce the pressure exerted on the case by clipping a coil or two off the spring. I like to have just enough pressure on a hunting rig for the empty to clear the port, but not much more. On my single shot hunting rigs, I remove the ejector assembly completely.

The ejector is loaded with a pretty good amount of tension, so a bit of planning is in order if you don't want to end up on your hands and knees looking for the ejector and the spring. I just put the face of the bolt in the mouth of a plastic pop bottle, so when the ejector and spring come a-hellin' out of the bolt, it just goes into the bottle and is easily removed.

For what it's worth. -Al
 
Guys

Your making a big deal out of finding a close reference point .In the end your seating depth is trial & error.the target tells you the correct place to seat the bullits.Have fun & good shootin Jim
 
It isn't the extractor that Al is removing, it is the EJECTOR !

Bryce

Oh crap....Pardon, I can't even even talk straight and say what I mean. Yes, I meant the "ejector", even though I printed the "extractor". And yes indeed that is the part I'm referring to that is pinned in there.


Bryce, you have essentially just described what Al and I are doing, but in still another slight variation of the process. I don't know why you think that shoving a case into a chamber with something, and shoving the case back out of the barrel from the other direction with something, is any more time cunsuming then Al's method of dissassembling the bolt and removing the ejector.

Using steel wool exclusively, without blackening the bullet over a flame doesn't work nearly as well for me . For me, it is easier to see the obvious shiny copper marks contrasting through the surface of a black carbon covered bullet. The steel wool does not completely polish off and remove all the marks and impressions. After awhile it gets tricky to tell the old marks and impressions from the new marks when relying on the steel wool method only. The marks made through black carbon eliminate any guessing.

We otherwise are agreeing and doing the same process.

HOWEVER,
I need to test my results once more, using a bolt this time to see if I get the same reading. I know when I tap a case into the chamber using a dowel, pencil, or dried slim-jim (or whatever one cares to use) that it contacts the chamber walls. I now need to test and be sure that the rifle bolt drives a case up just as far and contacts the same chamber walls. Otherwise I'm going to get two different readings if a dowel pushes the case further up into the chamber then where a bolt would push it. . However, if that were the story, that would also mean a lot of Stoney Point tools out there are also not doing there job accurately like a bolt does.

Thanks for your input.

EDIT: Al, you and I were posting at the same time. Thank you again for more good info about shortening the ejector spring. Yes, I don't like the case being thrown out as far as it currently flys out, and I'll very likely do this procedure you mentioned. Now I have a god excuse to do that bolt VS the dowel comparison I underlined in the paragraph above.:)

mckinnie,
We have to start somewhere. And to newbies, this is all good info. But yes, you are probably right.
 
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VaniB, you said ........


" ........... I now need to test and be sure that the rifle bolt drives a case up just as far and contacts the same chamber walls. Otherwise I'm going to get two different readings if a dowel pushes the case further up into the chamber then where a bolt would push it. . However, if that were the story, that would also mean a lot of Stoney Point tools out there are also not accurately driving the case up into the chamber where the case should be. ......... "


That is correct. The case needs to be full length resized correctly for you to be able to insert it fully up to the shoulder, even once fired is to tight to get the case right in their without decent force. If the case is a free fit and does hit the shoulder your readings should vary from using the bolt by the amount of shoulder bump you are doing. If you are bumping the shoulder back a bit far during full length sizing your estimation of bullet seating contact point will also be out by the same amount.

Yes there are a lot if Stoney Point tools giving inaccurate readings, been there and done that.

About the only aspect of your method that might be worth using is the marking of the bullet if you find it makes seeing the marks easier. Other than that what you are doing is a slight second best option to chambering the round in the rifle using the bolt the same way you do when you shoot the thing. There is just no need to put the case in the chamber any other way than with the bolt.

Bryce
 
Comparing a stripped 700 rifle bolt to seat the dummy cartridge into the chamber, VS, using a wood dowel to shove the dummy cartridge into the chamber: I measured about a 5,000ths difference between the two methods....the bolt leaving the dummy cartridge 5,000ths away from touching the chamber shoulder. 5,000ths of an inch isn't even as thick as a business card.So, for all practical purposes, the two methods give almost exactly the same results.

However,Bryce, it makes sense to use the bolt and eliminate any variances, as you put it; "chamber the round in the rifle using the bolt the same way you do when you shoot the thing."

Jmckinnie,
Ultimately, you're probably right that this is all academic
and will need to have a final resorting out anyway, once the brass is fired and the rifle shows what length cartridge it prefers to shoot.

Al,
I took the initiative to shorten the ejector spring. Not being sure how much tension I needed, and not wanting to cut too much off of the spring, I took your advice literally and shortened the spring "a coil or two" at a time. 30 minutes and one final ejection test later, I had removed about 5/16" to 3/8" of it. That sure is nice to now have the spent case being tossed onto the table in front of me, instead of it being thrown 10 feet over to my right and down the shirt of the person next to me. The last time a hot Lapua case went down some gal's shirt at the firing range, she got all upset with me. Her man got even more upset when I offered to help with retrieving it. :D (just kidding)

That was a million dollar tip you provided, and a very good initiative to learn how to strip down a Rem 700 bolt and its ejector.
 
VaniB,

Now that you've found the length needed to touch your lands, how much of the bullet is in the case?

Justin
 
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