J
Jim Kobe
Guest
After reading my post, I have to apologize; I did not mean to come across as sarcastic. only quizzical.
Yep, I can horse a parting tool through a part with a minimum of oil/coolant and get the part so hot it turns blue. BTDT. I don't know anyone who would get that aggressive when parting off a barrel. If you REALLY want to get down to the basics the compression/shearing action of a turning/threading tool will also cause a work-hardening zone, especially with stainless or tool steels. 
D
Dennis Sorensen
Guest
I have an old home made power hacksaw. It is noisy and slow but cuts straight. I usually cut all my barrels in it and then face them in the lathe.
Smaller lathes as mine (11 Rockwell) do not part off that well and it is just much simpler to saw.
bbl suicide
When the bbl saw what the saw seen as it was sawing, it jumped over the the lathe and said I want to be departed
Really, I usually saw with the band saw and face, the exception being if the bbl is in the lathe already. A good HS parting tool that is as sharp as a razor cuts 416 like butter.
Richard Brensing
When the bbl saw what the saw seen as it was sawing, it jumped over the the lathe and said I want to be departed
Really, I usually saw with the band saw and face, the exception being if the bbl is in the lathe already. A good HS parting tool that is as sharp as a razor cuts 416 like butter.
Richard Brensing
Hack saw!
The lathe is running Wayne. It's really quite easy. Maybe not as safe as a parting tool, but then again, I've had parting tools throw steel at me a time or two.
And it's definitely safer for the workpiece, with almost no chance of moving it in the chuck.
Don't worry, I burn plenty of fuel, very likely more than everyone on the website, put together x 10. Usually between 40 and 200 metric tons a day. I've burned fuels that were a solid at room temperature, natural gas, and everything in between.
Ben
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A friend gave me a nice power bandsaw. I use it to precut barrels as well. Great tool. To remove a tennon for a setback or rechamber, I have been using a HSS parting tool, or hand hacksaw.
lejarretnoir
JP Poulin
I've done both parting and bandsaw. Both generate some heat, but very little. I find it easier to part with the barrel already in the lathe. I use an indexable insert cutoff blade which makes a very narrow cut, very smooth like butter with lots of cutting fluid and requires almost no facing off afterward.
So, drilling and tapping for front sight gives a dimple in the bore? Would not clamping a front sight induce compression around the muzzle also or would that get silver soldered? Seems like heat or any machining is going to introduce stress anytime in metal.
So, drilling and tapping for front sight gives a dimple in the bore? Would not clamping a front sight induce compression around the muzzle also or would that get silver soldered? Seems like heat or any machining is going to introduce stress anytime in metal.
Jim Kolb
I know and respect you as a great gunsmith. Especially in the world of Mauser actions. You are a gentleman and I hope both our skins are thick enough to allow for differences of opinions in our postings from time to time. Your appology was not neccessary but graciously accepted. I hope my reply did not offend you. I look forward to reading your post. I learn something new everyday.
Nat Lambeth
I know and respect you as a great gunsmith. Especially in the world of Mauser actions. You are a gentleman and I hope both our skins are thick enough to allow for differences of opinions in our postings from time to time. Your appology was not neccessary but graciously accepted. I hope my reply did not offend you. I look forward to reading your post. I learn something new everyday.
Nat Lambeth
Bob Kingsbury
New member
Some lathes can handle parting tools better than others. Very light
headstock spindles can be damaged , especially the cheaper imports.
Thin wall spindles and those not correctly heat treated flex more
than quality machines. three jaw chucks simply don't support a
workpiece as well as a 6 jaw. As soon as the workpiece begins to flex
you are in trouble. Parting off at the tapered end( muzzle) where
the chuck has little grip seems to me as iffy. I use a saw there.
I can use a parting tool at the breach end safely, but more often than
not, I use the saw there also. Sharp tools cause little heat and much
less pressure than dull ones, so I can't see a collapsed barrel
when its done right.
headstock spindles can be damaged , especially the cheaper imports.
Thin wall spindles and those not correctly heat treated flex more
than quality machines. three jaw chucks simply don't support a
workpiece as well as a 6 jaw. As soon as the workpiece begins to flex
you are in trouble. Parting off at the tapered end( muzzle) where
the chuck has little grip seems to me as iffy. I use a saw there.
I can use a parting tool at the breach end safely, but more often than
not, I use the saw there also. Sharp tools cause little heat and much
less pressure than dull ones, so I can't see a collapsed barrel
when its done right.