Notes to self re: removing a glue in
- Thread starter Al Nyhus
- Start date
This is a 30BR 13.5 lb gun.
For a long barrelled (30" plus) boomer, the F-Class Long Panda would be my pick. It's .850 longer than a standard Panda (9.350 vs 8.500), has a built in recoil lug and 0-20 degree 3/8 dovetail or non-Mil spec. Picatinny style rail.
For a flat bottomed steel action for big stuff, the Black Bear Tactical is what I'd be looking at.
Good shootin'. -Al
The action ended up pretty filthy from all of this and didn't want clean up very well....probably from years of grease and dirt in the pores of the aluminum. So, I tossed it in my ultrasonic cleaner with a 4:1 solution of Simple Green concentrate and water. 10 minutes later, it came out squeaky clean but all black from the oxidation. With some Never Dull wool, it polished back nicely.
I'm more of a functional guy that a 'show and shine' type but it turned out ok.
I'm more of a functional guy that a 'show and shine' type but it turned out ok.
Alknow about the song....
Nice triple negative! Certainly the BATF has filed that action info in their computer data base by now.
Heat doesn't never not work (true Forbidden Zone-speak).
Nice triple negative! Certainly the BATF has filed that action info in their computer data base by now.
Al
Polish it.
Polish it.
The action ended up pretty filthy from all of this and didn't want clean up very well....probably from years of grease and dirt in the pores of the aluminum. So, I tossed it in my ultrasonic cleaner with a 4:1 solution of Simple Green concentrate and water. 10 minutes later, it came out squeaky clean but all black from the oxidation. With some Never Dull wool, it polished back nicely.
I'm more of a functional guy that a 'show and shine' type but it turned out ok.
The final step was to make the blind rear action screw hole a 'through' hole. Stan Ware had done this on my previous Kodiak and Pandas and it's a worthwhile modification to make. You get rid of the blind hole and the possibility of the action screw bottoming out plus you gain another 3 threads of purchase. The Kodiaks are thinner than the Pandas here so it really helps them.
Real machinists and craftsmen will have to bear with me. My apologies up front for likely violating every rule of Machine Shop 101.
I wanted to mill the hole but wasn't totally comfortable my edge finding abilities to locate off the original hole. Keeping Stan's gentle way of instructing in mind when he felt I was at a teachable moment ("C'mon, Nyhus. You have to be smarter than a piece of bleep-bleeping aluminum!"), I came up with this.
The hapless patient prior to the proceedure. Note the coffee cup...very important.
With my pin gauges, I measured the I.D. of the threaded hole, which was .213. I turned a piece of .0250 stock to .211 on the end to use as a locating pin in the rear hole.
Then, the locating pin went in the 1/4" collet:
The action was level in the vise with the dovetail rail spanning across the opening of the vise for support. Futzing around with the X,Y and Z got it to where the pin would just slide in the hole. Note the shop rag...Stan would kick my azz for using a greasy rag!
Lowered the mill table and swapped the 1/4" collet for the 3/8" collet and put a 3/16" O.D./3/8" shank end mill in. This is one thing I should have done differently. Had I used a piece of 3/8" stock for a locating pin, I wouldn't have needed to change collets and introduce that possibility of error.
Stepped back, took a breath, had a big drink of coffee and down in it went. Everything looked nice and centered. Tapped it with the appropriate class thread tap. You can see a small raised edge where the threads enter the cocking piece guide slot.
Touched up the edges with a narrow Arkansas stone and called it good!
Critques welcomed and encouraged!
Good shootin'. -Al
Real machinists and craftsmen will have to bear with me. My apologies up front for likely violating every rule of Machine Shop 101.
I wanted to mill the hole but wasn't totally comfortable my edge finding abilities to locate off the original hole. Keeping Stan's gentle way of instructing in mind when he felt I was at a teachable moment ("C'mon, Nyhus. You have to be smarter than a piece of bleep-bleeping aluminum!"), I came up with this.
The hapless patient prior to the proceedure. Note the coffee cup...very important.
With my pin gauges, I measured the I.D. of the threaded hole, which was .213. I turned a piece of .0250 stock to .211 on the end to use as a locating pin in the rear hole.
Then, the locating pin went in the 1/4" collet:
The action was level in the vise with the dovetail rail spanning across the opening of the vise for support. Futzing around with the X,Y and Z got it to where the pin would just slide in the hole. Note the shop rag...Stan would kick my azz for using a greasy rag!
Lowered the mill table and swapped the 1/4" collet for the 3/8" collet and put a 3/16" O.D./3/8" shank end mill in. This is one thing I should have done differently. Had I used a piece of 3/8" stock for a locating pin, I wouldn't have needed to change collets and introduce that possibility of error.
Stepped back, took a breath, had a big drink of coffee and down in it went. Everything looked nice and centered. Tapped it with the appropriate class thread tap. You can see a small raised edge where the threads enter the cocking piece guide slot.
Touched up the edges with a narrow Arkansas stone and called it good!
Critques welcomed and encouraged!
Good shootin'. -Al
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