new Haas lathe

Tony

I'll pass out cigars in about a month. Either cigars or a crying towel.

Matt

You're more than welcome to drop in anytime.

I'll post more pictures when I get closer to having it all tricked out. Gathering parts now and planning how to run air and coolant lines.

Dave
 
Yea I know. I'm planning a new shop and I'm going to have individual pads for each machine and have concrete pilings sitting on bed rock. If it works for skyscrapers it should work for a 4000 lb. lathe.

Dave
 
Dave Count your fingers.. Now you will only need 2...

Push the GO button on that new CNC Lathe and now put the unused hand in your pocket. It will keep you out of trouble. Put your free hand on the Stop button. We will learn if you or the machine can multitask better. Remember to keep your feed and speed conservative in the begining. I have never seen a CNC machine that can't cut stock faster than I can stop it. CNC is to machining as 4 wheel drive is to off roading. I have never seen a 4 X 4 that has not gotten me stuck in a worse places. You are going to have some fun and you are going to have a case of the nerves before the next phase of you life begins. You will no doubtedly learn what woops are and a few new vocabulary words. Who says we can't teach an old dog new tricks.

Be safe and enjoy.

Nat
 
very slick mr dave

will you be chambering by single point cutting?just the thought of not having to buy another reamer sounds real good. tim in tx
 
I am very interested in this same machine. Looking forward to more reports!

S
 
I'm making the A2-5, 4 screw adapter plate now. Work keeps getting in the way. Then I'll start piping the air and coolant. I have a trick up my sleeve there. If it works I'll let you know.

Dave
 
Dave Tooley said:
I'm making the A2-5, 4 screw adapter plate now. Work keeps getting in the way. Then I'll start piping the air and coolant. I have a trick up my sleeve there. If it works I'll let you know.

Dave
Click to expand...
It ain't going to work.

If you mix powder and water then try to light it to make mist coolant you will blow the windows out!!!
 
Jerry

I'll bet you guys talked all day.

Here is the 4 screw adapter plate. The holes so big because I do everything from 2" barrels on down. I like using a T-handle so I made the screws to take a 3/8" drive extension and T-handle. Tips are interchangeable.
All I need is 6 cap screws and that part is done.

It' beer thirty.

Dave
 

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Why TL-1 instead of TL-2

Dave:

I've looked at these HAAS machines and wondered whether the longer bed TL-2 might be more flexible for barrel set up not thru the headstock. I would enjoy your thoughts and why you selected the machine you did. Also, how are you planning on handling the outboard end of the headstock for short barrel set up through the headstock? That front end spider looks great, and I sure like the looks of that machine. Unfortunately, I'm afraid my old SB heavy 10 would be in tears next to a new HAAS! Good luck with your new lathe. Regards, Chuck
 
Chuck

I have a 14X40 Clausing Metosa and a 10X30 Nardini also. For short barrel one off barrels I'll use the Nardini everytime. If the time comes I have a large batch short barrels Dave Manson is working an instrument that can either reach 4 plus inches inside a barrel or reach 4 plus inches into the spindle. I've seen others bore tubing to match the barrel taper and tap that onto the end of the barrel. That would extend most beyond the end of the spindle. Pain in the butt until you make enough to cover several tapers. But heck that's what the chamfer tab is for on the Haas. Pick your angle to 3 decimal places and bore the hole. I'll have everything finished in the next day or two and I'll post some more pics.

The Haas was purchased for a repetitive barrel work. As in 20-50 of the same contour. I've got 30 arriving next week. I can't see anyone justifying the price tag of the Haas to do one barrel at a time.

To keep all happy here I have the Clausing seperating the Haas and Nardini so they don't fight.

Dave
 
Nice

Nice looking lathe there Dave. Will have to get down to visit sometime and see it up close. After I swing by and get a case of Yuengling first, of course!

Rob
 
more pics

Here is what the 15th revision for the plumbing looks like. All that's missing is a 1/4" hydralic hose that I'll I pick up Monday. It goes from the air and coolant manifold to the rotary union. I'm trying something that I've never seen done before. I'm running air into the flush coolant line. There is a check valve on both the coolant and the air so I won't get any back flow in either. I have a needle valve to control the volume of air and a foot valve under the lathe. If I don't think the coolant is flushing the chips out I can inject a blast of air that will temporarily increase coolant presure and at any time blow the barrel and chamber out clean.


Dave
 

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Dave Tooley said:
Here is what the 15th revision for the plumbing looks like. All that's missing is a 1/4" hydralic hose that I'll I pick up Monday. It goes from the air and coolant manifold to the rotary union. I'm trying something that I've never seen done before. I'm running air into the flush coolant line. There is a check valve on both the coolant and the air so I won't get any back flow in either. I have a needle valve to control the volume of air and a foot valve under the lathe. If I don't think the coolant is flushing the chips out I can inject a blast of air that will temporarily increase coolant presure and at any time blow the barrel and chamber out clean.


Dave
Click to expand...


That is the way that I am setup Dave.

Works very well with boring bar operations that do not create enough backpressure for coolant flow removal of chips..................Don
 
Adding air..

Dave:

I have considered adding air just to flush out the coolant in the barrel during measuring intervals. I run a constant 35psi while reaming and flush with 75-125 psi. When I get down to the last couple thousants I reduce my preasure to about 10 psi. Remember I use a reamer stop and it can focus coolant outinto the room. Rarely do I ever get a chip weld to a reamer. But I stop and pull out and check for chips before the last .050 or so. I promise after you get the bugs worked out you will never go back to the old way of ream and clean.

Nat Lambeth
 
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