New Grizzly Gunsmith Spider Back-Plate

I posted in another thread that I no longer used the brass buttons on the spider screws. One of the best changes I ever made. What I use now is absolutely predictable when I tighten or loosen one of the 1/2-20 bolts. Here's the thread, see post #12 for pictures of my spider setup. http://benchrest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49711
 
Butch, Fitch, Joel, David, and all who have contributed to this thread,

Thanks for the ideas gentlemen. It's guys like you who inspire someone like me to attempt this type of project :D.

Jim
 
my plate on the adapter is just under 3/4 thick, and used threaded rod to get the long thread length. added copper inserts via electric wire, and double nuted the ends.....

all from various inputs from the guys here.

mike in co
 
Shiraz would be smart to offer these for all his lathes.

Shiraz:

Shiraz would be smart to offer these for all his lathes especailly a D1-4.

He also should offer roller bearing fingers on all of his lathe steady rest or offer a center bearing cathead rest.

This would allow higher speed center to center work.

I guess we sould be glad he has gotten the interest he has.

Rustystud
 
Safety First

The link below shows a similar set up but the screws do not protrude, the risk of having your arm ripped off is lowered.

http://www.freewebs.com/262neck/workshop.htm


Dave Tooley can tell you how he lost his jumper sleeve in a spider with the screws sticking out!!:eek:

One of the pictures show that the screws are numbered which is another nice touch.

I copied this set up and it works fine.

The smith in the pictures is a regular on this site and is always willing to help others.
(Cheers Vince, Happy New Year).(To you all!!):D

No comments on the lack of safety glasses or the reamer holder!!!!!!!! We have been there and done that.
 
I built one a couple years ago using a D1-4 adapter and a 1" thick plate. The screws are 3/8-24 with #4 ground wire epoxied in for tips. The capscrews were trimmed down such that the heads would not protrude from the aluminum disk even at the largest barrel OD that the lathe can handle. It subtracted nearly 2" from the minimum through the headstock barrel length than what was possible with the stock 8" 4 jaw (G9036 lathe). The 24 TPI on the bolts makes indicating in a snap.

There are pictures of this unit on this page, the first ones in the gallery:

http://www.the-long-family.com/tooling.htm

My thanks as well to Shiraz for supporting our little community.

Cheers,

Chris
 
Rustystud said:
Shiraz:

Shiraz would be smart to offer these for all his lathes especailly a D1-4.

Rustystud
Click to expand...

The D1-5 and D1-6 plates take care of the two gunsmith lathes that we sell. D1-4 plates will be added at a later date.

As easy as the project sounds (and it is easy), just coordinating the new molds for the castings, making sure that the specs and drawings are correct for the CNC machining, and then testing the plates to make sure that the studs withstand shear force etc. is very time consuming. These are not a huge volume item and so it becomes more a labor of love than making them to "make money".
 
Shiraz Balolia said:
These are not a huge volume item and so it becomes more a labor of love than making them to "make money".
Click to expand...

Amen to that Shiraz. I hope you at least break even on these. I'm sure I'm not alone in professing huge thanks to you for the support you've given to the shooting community. :)
 
Spider

Tried to order one today. Not available until late Feb.
Orderd a D1-5 backing palte for $99 and will make spider.
 
Add D1-4 Spider "Please"

Shiraz:

Two things you could add that would be readily purchased are as follows:

Add a D1-4 Spider as listed above

Also make a steady rest with a center bearing that has a spider inside the bearing.

These two things would one shorten up the spindel bore for headstock chambering. The second would allow for high speed center to center chambering.

nat
 
I want to thank Butch Lambert, who went out of his way to ensure that I had screws to finish my spyder. It continues to amaze me how the members of this forum are so ready to help fellow shooters.

I got the holes drilled and tapped today, and although I haven't finished "shining it up", it is now usable. I may still shorten the screws so that they won't stick out, but other than that I am one step closer to trying some barrel work.

It looks like I may be able to get down to 18.75" for minimum barrel length with this setup. I could still take another 0.25" off the front of the spyder if I need to as well, but I doubt that this will be a problem.

Thanks to all,
Jim

SpindleSpyder024copy2.jpg
 
Jim Wooten said:
I want to thank Butch Lambert, who went out of his way to ensure that I had screws to finish my spyder. It continues to amaze me how the members of this forum are so ready to help fellow shooters.

I got the holes drilled and tapped today, and although I haven't finished "shining it up", it is now usable. I may still shorten the screws so that they won't stick out, but other than that I am one step closer to trying some barrel work.

It looks like I may be able to get down to 18.75" for minimum barrel length with this setup. I could still take another 0.25" off the front of the spyder if I need to as well, but I doubt that this will be a problem.

Thanks to all,
Jim
QUOTE]

Yes, shortening those screws would probably be a good idea, I am sure they would be excellent skin or cloth catchers, although good handles for spinning the chuck when in neutral........................Don
Click to expand...
 
Jim, is that lathe a SB hvy 10? Also, is that a 0-2" dial indicator or is it longer? What kind of spindle is on it. There's a SB HVY ten for sale in the next state and somewhere I got the idea that it has a D1-4 camlock spindle. Does yours?
 
adamsgt said:
Jim, is that lathe a SB hvy 10? Also, is that a 0-2" dial indicator or is it longer? What kind of spindle is on it. There's a SB HVY ten for sale in the next state and somewhere I got the idea that it has a D1-4 camlock spindle. Does yours?
Click to expand...

I've seen them with both threaded spindles and D1-4 spindles.

Fitch
 
adamsgt said:
Jim, is that lathe a SB hvy 10? Also, is that a 0-2" dial indicator or is it longer? What kind of spindle is on it. There's a SB HVY ten for sale in the next state and somewhere I got the idea that it has a D1-4 camlock spindle. Does yours?
Click to expand...

Jerry,

Yes it is a Heavy10. The dial indicator is a 0-2", but the rod it is attached to is adjustable so that it can be set to read the area that the carriage will be used in.

The spindle is the somewhat uncommon L00 long taper key-lock version. I was hoping to get a D1-4 camlock machine originally, but after using the L00 I find that it is rather good as well. It is very repeatable (at least as much so as the D1-4), and the key lock prevents unwanted rotation of the chuck that can occur with the threaded spindles. The downside of the L00 is increased cost of chucks, etc.

Jim
 
Jim Wooten said:
Jerry,

Yes it is a Heavy10. The dial indicator is a 0-2", but the rod it is attached to is adjustable so that it can be set to read the area that the carriage will be used in.


Jim
Click to expand...

Thanks, I think I can see the rod camouflaged behind the indicator. Excellent idea. Will try that myself. I currently have a used Taiwan 12 X 36 that's OK but have been pondering the SB HVY 10 that keeps popping up on CL. Course if it hasn't sold there may be a reason for that. It'd be a 3 hr drive to go check it out. Keep hearing that the SB HVY 10 is the ideal gunsmith lathe. You concur?
 
adamsgt said:
Thanks, I think I can see the rod camouflaged behind the indicator. Excellent idea. Will try that myself. I currently have a used Taiwan 12 X 36 that's OK but have been pondering the SB HVY 10 that keeps popping up on CL. Course if it hasn't sold there may be a reason for that. It'd be a 3 hr drive to go check it out. Keep hearing that the SB HVY 10 is the ideal gunsmith lathe. You concur?
Click to expand...

Jerry,

Here is a better photo of the indicator setup. The two thumb screws hold the rod in position. Works well.

As for the Heavy10 being the ideal gunsmith lathe, I am not really qualified to say whether it is THE ideal, but it does have some great features that are applicable to gunsmithing. The biggest caution that I will suggest is that it needs to be in excellent condition when you buy it, unless you are looking to rebuild it. If it has seen much use, you can expect at the least some wear in the cross slide and compound screws, with the accompanying backlash in the dials. Next is wear in the ways, which is not a simple or cheap fix. Then the lead screw might also show a good bit of wear. Throw in wear of the gears in the apron, or the head stock, and your new purchase may be a better candidate for "parting out" :(. If you are fortunate enough to find a "home shop queen" that has not had a lot of use, and was well cared for, GRAB IT. If not, become a frequent visitor to Practical Machinist, Ebay, and the many businesses and web sites that specialize in South Bend lathe parts. Some new parts are still available from LeBlond, but expect to pay nearly as much as a new low end import lathe for a few major parts.

It has been said that you can do good work with a "worn out" lathe, but it requires more expertise and time than a lathe in good condition. There are some nice South Bends out there, but there are some worn out hulks as well. I was pretty lucky with my lathe, but it still required a bit of "tweaking" to get it working in good order. I learned much more about how a Heavy10 works, plus disassembly and reassembly, than I ever expected to know ;). Now, I can see why nice ones are highly regarded.

Would I buy a South Bend again? You bet. Is it better than new lathes? Not if we are talking about new top of the line tool room lathes, but it's not in the same price range either, and it is capable of EXCELLENT work if the operator does his part.

Jim

SpindleSpyder027copy2.jpg
 
Jim,

Using that indicator like that is priceless. It never fails and is easier to use than a DRO.

I use mine on the right side of the carriage. That way, I work to "zero". Once a barrel is faced, without moving the carriage, I pre-load the length of cut I want and stop at zero. To me it's easier than watching to the "number" each time. Same for threading, I set it where I want tostop before the shoulder, and when it's zero, I stop!

Whatever you get used to is what works.

Wayne
 
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