Need thinner recoil lug

terry

The dimensions you quoted are frightening, to me at least.:eek: A normal barrel counterbore (recess) is nominally .150" deep and a bolt nose is nominally .150" long which means only a minimum of unsupported case head. Even though the case web does protrude .150" outside the chamber it is the solid web and it is protected by that "third ring of steel".

On the other hand, you have a lot of case head supported by nothing but a hope and a prayer. I certainly would not want to shoot that rifle with my pretty cheek and eyeballs so near to the receiver.

I have two 308W reamers and would be happy to lend one to you to do the job right. All I ask is for you to pay the shipping to and fro. I believe they are both factory specs. I've never used them. I can get some dimensions if you're interested. The only problem may be if the neck diameters conflict.

Let me know.

Ray
 
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Terry, not at all but that's why I hate to set factory barrels back. When I charge as much for doing it as chambering a new barrel the customer almost always thinks he's being overcharged when it's actually more time involved in making sure everything is timed properly.

I've had many say they didn't care where the writing was but if someone sees it and asks who did the work I can't depend on them telling the questioner that they insisted on it being that way. It's too easy for a gunsmith to get a bad rep from things like that. It won't hurt a thing but it does cast a bad reflection on someone doing work for others.

Good luck with it.
 
Eating crow as I type

Ray, I read your latest post and reread it then read it for a third time. I began to get a sinking feeling, “nominally .150 "vs.my .249 , both numbers ending in approximately 50 thous. Could my 2 barrels be so off? Ran down to the shop and remeasured the recess. Yep .149,and to think I made this error 6 different times. What I think happened in my addled state is that I read the .2 to the left of the veneer instead of .1 covered by the depth gage scale.
Quote:
Originally Posted by terry sims
To my disbelief I have .175 between the end of the bolt and the end of the recess on the 243 barrel.
In reality I had .075 between the end of the bolt and the end of the recess. With the 10 thous cut on the shoulder I now have a .065 gap and the bolt is .184 into the recess. Thanks Ray for questioning the numbers I posted. It is said that you learn by your mistakes and boy am I learning a lot. So now I feel a lot better about this rifle. Thanks for the generous offer of the reamer. Mickey, if any body asks me what’s wrong with your barrel I tell them “O, it was shooting a quarter turn to the left so I adjusted it”.
Terry Sims
 
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I agree with you Mickey - setting a factory barrel back and redoing it, is more work than fitting a blank. After I explain that... some customers still go ahead and some decide not to...

I also have to say that of the hundreds of 700's I have taken apart, I have never seen a factory assembly with excessive headspace or any problem with the bolt to barrel gap. There may be other "problems" though...
 
Terry, that's pretty clever thinking but the writing is rotated counterclockwise facing the muzzle so now it should be shooting even farther to the left. Back to the lathe! :)

When cutting the bolt nose recess I cut it .155 deep. That leaves approximately .005 clearance between the bolt nose and the barrel if the headspace is correct. Sounds like you have quite a bit of clearance there.......

Dennis, I've never encountered excess headspace in a factory rifle, either. I have run into some factory rifles that I couldn't really improve on their accuracy to any great degree. After all, the factory has to get some right every once in awhile.
 
No, Mickey you are the clever one to have noticed the error in my logic. I guess I will have to shoot the rifle upside down. With the 308 barrel installed I now have a good fit on the go gage and 15 thous bolt clearance. How this happened will remain a family secret least I incur the wrath of gunsmiths worldwide.
Terry Sims
 
I really don't believe that only .015 clearance is going to create a dangerous situation but .150 may. Keep your loads sensible and check the web expansion fairly frequently and you'll be OK......maybe. ;) Good luck.
 
Terry

This is always a good experiment, no matter the action or the cartridge.

Take a case of the brand you are actually using. Section it. Measure the thickness of the solid web (head). "A"

Measure the amount that the case is unsupported by the chamber itself. "B"

If "A" is bigger than "B" you are OK. If "B" is bigger you are not.

JMHO

Ray
 
As an example this is a sectioned .223 case...

sectioned%20case.jpg
 
Web Thickness on case . . .

That protusion on the case to the bolt face is a "very critical factor". I have a Factory Winchester 223 that blew 3 cases into my face. The first one I thought was a overload, "MY Reload", but the case will only hold 26 gr. of Varget so that was discounted. We checked all of the dimensions, Head Space and everything we could, all good. 2nd was some ammo that I got with the gun, and I knew the reloader Very Well. After that one I sent the gun to Winchester, they Headspaced it - fired 20 rounds through it and sent it back to me. 3rd time, I had taken some precautions with the same ammo, as the 2nd blow up. This time it left a membrane attached to the case and I had a dimension to measure to. There was .250 of case ahead of the bolt face that was un-supported, and with 40k + pressure all it needed was a weak case and away it went, at that .250 dimension the brass is only .040 thick. I sent it back to Winniepoo and told them under no circumstances to return the gun back to me with that barrel in place. They put a new barrel on it, and now the bolt hits the end of the barrel like it is supposed to. AT the Factory they had left too much space between the end of the bolt and the barrel face. I could have pulled the barrel and redone it myself, but I wanted them to know that they had a problem with that installation. My wife wanted me to sell the rifle, but I couldn't do that knowing that someone else may buy it and end up blind because I didn't do the right thing and have it fixed or fix it myself. Now fixed, it is my favorite "Doggie Gun".

So when these responders tell you to double check dimensions - it is a very good idea to do "exactly" that. Most of the rifles today don't have a Shroud in the rear like the Mausers that will deflect the gasses going back down the bolt channel. The dimensions on the three rings of steel are ciritical to SAFETY . . Another factor that is critical to shooting and especially reloading is "Case Length", measure the overall case length and cut all of the brass going into that chamber under the overall case length by .020 at least and every other firing re-check it. It is something that I do with every barrel I put on, even for someone else, I give them Overall Case Length, and tell them to live by that length. The brass encroaching into the lands will kick pressures over the top of some rifles and some very disturbing things will happen when that happens. . . . :eek: :(

Phantom496
 
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