MechForce barrel vice

Can't make it work. Probably my advanced age.

Yeahh see for me, I've got a hi-tech solution for that problem...... It works thisaway.

I bugger something up or can't get something to work and within a day or three I get expert help. We have family over several times a week and nearly always on weekends so I swing thru the gameroom and kype a kid or grandkid and they come over to my computer and set down and say "OK, show me the problem"

So I go through the same motions that didn't work eleventy-seven times just ten minutes ago and VOILAHHH!!!

it works.

and I mumble some nonsense about "well it just now WASN'T working...."

and they pat me on the head and say "yeahh i know how it is grampaw..."
 
We used to make the action wrenches for PMA but stopped when they tried to nickel dime us and wanted only stainless steel wrenches.The stainless is fine until you try to get a super tight barrel off and then you twist the wrench.
 
If you have to do all that. You are taking off tighter barrels than I am or doing something wrong. I just put an index card around the barrel, tighten the four nuts on our vise, insert our proper action wrench and crank away. What actions are you removing barrels from….or installing?

Francis,

I do it on all barrels as a matter of routine…don’t take but a minute and doesn’t hurt a thing. I started doing it after dealing with a particularly recalcitrant factory 700 barrel that was put on with 9 bazillion metric ass tons of pressure and stuff kept slipping. I degreased the snot out of everything and that was the difference maker. I was able to get that cursed barrel off.

I’d rather take an extra minute or so to dry things out than have something slip and scratch up a barrel or action.

Justin
 
Nitrogen in a dip tube tank is even better.
The output is liquid nitrogen..

Now you've got me curious. I've grown up around nitrogen tanks and done a lot of fabrication in cold weather and seen lots of steel shatter in the cold.....sawblades, dozer growsers, subframes, hangers and many instances of it being too cold to bend rebar. My crews are actually trained to stop all steel fab below 0*F..... and I'd be dead scared to apply either heat or torque to a nitro'd barrel..... heat and cold in close proximity is simply not in my repertoire concerning working with steel. I pre-heat for welds

With my wrenching system I can take off any factory bbl with finger pressure so I'll never have to heat nor freeze a barrel joint but still...... really? ....LN2 does freaky stuff to steel in my (limited) experience.

I'm asking seriously, trying to learn......
 
this, from a michigander who knows zero about steel fabrication and has never SEEN cold LOL

where I grew up they didn't even close the schools until 35 below

In the middle 50s at what used to be Ladd Airforce Base in Fairbanks,Ak, we could only go into the school building before school at either -10deg or -20deg. The concrete on our new house in Anchorage was poured at around 0 deg.
 
Has the concrete dust gotten to you?
Try -56 degrees for size.
I haven’t always lived as far south as Michigan or in the U.S.

And now back to regular programming. Tsk Tsk

In fact, why not shoot in a registered match before it gets any colder.
 
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Has the concrete dust gotten to you?
Try -56 degrees for size.
I haven’t always lived as far south as Michigan or in the U.S.

And now back to regular programming. Tsk Tsk

In fact, why not shoot in a registered match before it gets any colder.

Ya got me beat there :) -52F is coldest I've lived in but I've been involved in a LOT of steel fabrication and you'll have to do a lot better than that to convince me that welding and bending below zero is commonly achieved. When we weld in the cold we have cubbies with cherries out pre-heating ahead......I've busted bars and welds and had guys hurt by flying steel below zero. We don't cold-fab 60 grade rebar below zero because it snaps on the bend and sends bars flying. 35 below and metal starts shattering under sharp blows. Erection? Yeahh.... unaffected but fabrication? Nope.
 
,,,,,,The concrete on our new house in Anchorage was poured at around 0 deg.

yup, and I've taken many a pleasant dump at 0 degrees......INSIDE LOL.

Simple fact is that the temperature of the concrete itself must be kept above 42F at all times to keep it from dying and above 50F to cure. Ain't no first job quite like pouring concrete in the cold, running machines inside tarped and visqueened enclosures, breathing exhaust fumes and sweating under dripping ice drops. It takes weeks of clean living to get rid of the smells pouring off your self.


An awful lot of the concrete in Fairbanks and Anchorage poured in the last 20yrs was poured by friends of mine. I've got 30-40 friends and rellies based in Wasilla

Fairbanks used to get fairly cold but not North Slope cold.....and they call that balmy southern place "Los Anchorage" or even "North Seattle"......
 
I guess you’ve never heard of pre-heating before welding.
If you were in sub-tropical Michigan you’d never get anything done and yes, there is a lot of welding going on in erecting.
 
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