M700 trigger adjustment?

J

Joe S

Member
Hello, I`ve a M700 that has seemed to have developed a bit of creep over the years. I recently had it repaired (a broken part replace) and hoped the creep problem would go away when it was done. Nope! Didn`t happen.
I finally gave in and decided to play with it myself. I have adjusted a couple M700s in the past useing this method http://www.quarterbore.com/library/articles/rem700trigger.html and they seem to be fairly free of creep and overtravel. This one though isn`t playing along. I`ve got overtravel to almost nil. Pull is down around 2'-2.25' - I have retired this rifle to the bench only and don`t hunt it anymore -, but there is +1/64" of movement yet. This is distracting to me when shooting and isn`t really any better then when I started. It passes the bounce test, and I`ve slammed the bolt dozens of times checking the safety of the adjustments. I`m a little leery of monkeying with it much more though.
The trigger has resistance, feels like it "breaks" and moves a touch, then acts as it should up to the sears release. Can anyone offer advice on getting this play out of it, or is a new trigger my only hope?
 
I don't know what wear might do to Remington trigger, but I would still suspect that as one possibility.

However, try taking the trigger off the rifle & washing it by shaking it in a clean plastic peanut butter jar of gasoline with about 5% good lubricating oil in it. If you can see any crud left, blast the bugger with gun scrubber, then wash it again with a clean batch of gasoline & oil & leave it to drip dry on a clean cloth for a day or so.

Put it back on the rifle & adjust it the same as you did last time. That should tell you whether or not you need to have the trigger serviced or replaced.

If you haven't knocked a trigger off a Remington before, it might be worth your time to read De Hass's book on bolt actions to see what the process involves.
 
Last edited:
Ditto John's rec to clean the assembly, but I like brake cleaner (leaves no residue, easy to blast with plastic tube they usually provide) or lighter fluid (like for a Zippo).

Otherwise, send your trigger to Neil Jones for adjustment down to 1 lb. Safe, reliable, reasonably priced: http://www.neiljones.com/
 
The trigger was cleaned when the broken part was replaced a couple weeks ago. I don`t think that is the problem but, I will try giving it a rinse with lighter fluid and blow it out just in case...
I don`t know the part that was replaced but I took the rifle in when the sear was tripping as the bolt was shut. I tried cleaning it then and it did no good. My smith thought it just needed a cleaning also, and that I didn`t get it all, He found a part had broke though when he got into it..
The creep was apparent for a while prior to the part braking, but I didn`t complain to my smith about it, just that the sear wasn`t holding. I might take it back to him and let him look if I can`t get it out soon.
The rifle has had a lot of rounds run through it (maybe 8-9K) but I don`t want to believe they have been so many as to wear it out.
 
Joe S said:
The rifle has had a lot of rounds run through it (maybe 8-9K) but I don`t want to believe they have been so many as to wear it out.
Click to expand...
It would surprise me. I used to shoot fullbore with Sportco/Omark actions retrofitted with Remington triggers & I would have run at least that many rounds thru them & dry fired them two-three times as many times without any issue. They would have been late seventies issue.
 
If the sear wasn't resetting it was likely the sear spring that was broken. I can't imagine any other part in a 700 trigger that could break under even extensive normal use. If there was no creep before the gunsmith replaced the sear spring or whatever else it was that might have been broken, the creep can likely be adjusted out.

The top front screw on the 700 trigger adjusts overtravel, the lower front screw is the poundage screw, and the rear screw is sear engagement. If the overtravel isn't excessive I wouldn't fiddle with that adjustment. On 700 triggers from at least the last 20 years or so the poundage spring is VERY stiff and trigger pull can't be adjusted below maybe 3 or 4 lb without replacing the poundage spring.

The sear engagement screw is what controls creep. With the rifle UNLOADED cock the bolt, and screw the sear engagement screw in slowly until the firing pin falls. Then back the sear engagement screw out 1/4 turn. Recock the bolt and try the trigger. There should be no creep, but the bolt should then be recocked and slammed closed. If the firing pin falls there isn't enough sear engagement so back out the screw another 1/4 turn. Keep doing this until you've got safe sear engagement and no creep.
 
Bill Ohio said:
Ditto John's rec to clean the assembly, but I like brake cleaner (leaves no residue, easy to blast with plastic tube they usually provide) or lighter fluid (like for a Zippo).

Otherwise, send your trigger to Neil Jones for adjustment down to 1 lb. Safe, reliable, reasonably priced: http://www.neiljones.com/
Click to expand...



This is my standard advice about triggers.


Unless you have a complete understanding of the trigger in question, send it out to someone that does. Neil would be my choice if I didn't know these triggers well.

Like the movie mobster say, "why take a chance"? Good time to think about a rebarrel job also. About 7 or 8 thousand rounds ago.:D
 
Disassemble the trigger, very lightly polish the sears with a 400 grit soft wheel, then lightly buff them with a black wheel, assemble and adjust and try it again. That usually fixes them.
 
Rem 700 triggers

Yet another endorsement for Neil Jones. Remove the trigger assembly & send to Neil Jones. Cost is $70 w/ return shipping & turn-around time is approx. 1 week. He will take it down to an excellent 1 pound & keep the safety. Have them in all my Rem. 700s, and keep a spare on hand if one should go bad/ has not happened.
 
Big Al said:
This is my standard advice about triggers.


Unless you have a complete understanding of the trigger in question, send it out to someone that does. Neil would be my choice if I didn't know these triggers well.

Like the movie mobster say, "why take a chance"? Good time to think about a rebarrel job also. About 7 or 8 thousand rounds ago.:D
Click to expand...


I`m seriously concidering having someone look at it. I`m certainly not the worlds most qualified:D
As I said I`ve play with it some but I`m a bit leery of going much further on the adjustments. It works and appears safe now, I don`t want to go too far and create a unsafe trigger that bites me 6 months down the road.

BTW Al, it is on it`s 3rd barrel. It started life as a "used like new 22-250" that I put a Douglas 20" tube on chambered to 708 for deer around here, That barrel went 1500+ rds ago to a new 24" Lothar Walther, again chambered in 708. The rifle still shoots better then this poor eyed, shakey shooter can hold so I`m keeping it for a while yet;)
 
Joe S. I'm all for you in what you say, but you said it has 8 to 9K rounds through it.

"The rifle has had a lot of rounds run through it (maybe 8-9K) but I don`t want to believe they have been so many as to wear it out."

If that barrel has that much through it, it's gone. Like you, if it's not going to get much more use I would sure keep it for a loner, once the trigger was perfect. No one that uses a loner is going to know how many rounds are through that barrel or care anyway.

For me it uses the same amount of powder and bullets, primers to shoot a good barrel as one that is shot out.:D

I would really advise to get the trigger to someone that really knows them, just for Peace of Mind.:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top