loose barrel threads

Liseo

Member
Hi

This week I fitted a new heavy barrel on one 308 Winchester rifle, the chamber was perfect, but the threads finished a little undersized.(too deep) Headspace is fine, but will these small threads cause inaccuracy? I see no problem with safety, as isnt to much sloopy, but the accuracy is my concern...

Thanks
 
Hi

This week I fitted a new heavy barrel on one 308 Winchester rifle, the chamber was perfect, but the threads finished a little undersized.(too deep) Headspace is fine, but will these small threads cause inaccuracy? I see no problem with safety, as isnt to much sloopy, but the accuracy is my concern...

Thanks

Liseo,

Harold Broughton told me a long time ago that when you tighten up a barrel on a receiver that there is always clearance between the rear flank of the barrel thread and the front flank of the receiver thread. The difference between a loose thread and a tight thread is that the loose thread will have more clearance. He made the statement "Clearance is Clearance." A loose thread won't cause any accuracy problems and maybe not even if it's way looser than you'd want. But, a thread that is too tight can cause accuracy problems especially if the barrel shoulder doesn't seat up well against the receiver face. I wouldn't worry about it. On the first barrel I ever chambered, I got the threads looser than what I would have liked. I took the rifle down and shot a zero group with the .222 and then made the mistake thinking that I could improve on the thread fit, cut the threads off and rethreaded and rechambered it. Needless to say, it didn't shoot as well after rethreading and rechambering as it did when it was first done with the loose thread fit. That was a lesson learned very early. If it works, don't fix it.

Mike
 
I also cut a tenon a little to small one time not to long ago. This barrel has won me some wood, so I'm guessing it didn't hurt anything. Lol. Try your barrel out and see. I bet you will be just fine. Lee
 
Mike

As you is no longer in the riflesmith business, I need find a way to keep on changing wornout barrels....:D

Skeetlee, I read your post on the hide, seems that you had same problem, huh...

Well, now I feel better about my mistake...

Thanks
 
I am getting the best results that I have had in some time, shooting a well worn barrel with threads so loose that when I screwed it on, I felt the need to remeasure and figure out how much engagement I had sacrificed. This was a barrel that was given to me, chambered for a panda. My early Viper has threads that are a few thousandths too small for the barrel. I bought an adjustable die and got in a little to big of a hurry setting it for my last cut. It makes me want to do a before and after test with one of my other barrels, that were fitted to my action. Seriously, I have heard more than one undersized, shot well story. I have no idea why. On the other hand, the fit may have nothing to do with how well the barrel shoots. If I were fitting barrels on a lathe, I would be tempted to make nuts for all the common tenon dimensions, to check threads with. In this particular situation, one of the issues that I ran into was that even though I had the over the wires measurement slightly smaller than a barrel that fit, cutting the threads down with my die left the threads sharp, and I my action's insert was thread milled, and I doubt that the bottoms of the Vs come to a point, so I had to go a little smaller because of that. This put me into a range where the die setting was controlled by the thumbscrews that held it in the stock. Instead of being smart enough to measure from the top of the thumbscrew, to the other side of the stock, I guessed. The chamber is an oddball as well, and on the first day that I tried it at the range, the only die that would make the cases fit in the seater reduced the shoulder diameters about .0075, which did not seem to matter at all as far as the groups were concerned. There goes another theory. Later I switched sizing dies, and seaters, and it still shoots very well, but if I run out of long shanked bullets, I may be in trouble.
 
The first time you get a high dollar stainless action galled and stuck on a barrel will be the education you need to allow clearance! Ask me how I know! I usually cut the barrel tenon to 1.056 and use a thread mic to cut the threads to a pitch diameter that allows the barrel to be screwed on with little or no resistance. INMHO, this allows for the action and barrel shoulder to mate properly and the clearance allows for heat movement.

I don't post much on this board but I have cut many barrel tenons and some that have set records and for me, looser is better. The galled Bat action caused much "weeping and gnashing of teeth" but after careful boring and thread cleaning, the $1,200 mistake only cost the barrel and it was used for a shorter barreled rifle.

I like to have a small flat on the top of the tenon threads and am careful to clean-up the threads so there are no tiny flakes that can cause galling.


All the best to you
 
I always leave a little wiggle room on my threads. If you can't grab the action by the tang and get some obvious movement when it's threaded just short of the tennon shoulder then you really should make another cut off the threads. That's my opinion if it's worth anything to you!
Some call it slop I call it clearance.
 
I always leave a little wiggle room on my threads. If you can't grab the action by the tang and get some obvious movement when it's threaded just short of the tennon shoulder then you really should make another cut off the threads. That's my opinion if it's worth anything to you!
Some call it slop I call it clearance.

I do the same thing. If when I screw the action on the threads and there isn't any shake of the action on the threads, I'll make another pass on the threads turning in the compound another .001" when I make the last pass.
 
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