Kroil

Been about 18 years, I'm still waiting for the trickle to reach me. (No, I'm neither a Republican nor a Democrat, as the terms are used to refer to political parties.)

But Kroil trickles just fine, though dissolves, in my experience, nothing.
 
I've never heard of anyone using Kroil by its self for anything except a final wipe of the bore just before shooting another group.
I use kroil with JB to clean carbon all the time, I dont go to a match without it. I clean with one of my favorite copper cleaners,(either M.E. Copper Killer/Proshot Copper SolventIV or Boretec Eliminator) run a couple dry patches through then one saturated with Kroil, I wet another patch with Kroil and rub JB into it and short stroke the entire length of the barrel with an extra 10 to 12 strokes on the first few inches forward of the chamber. I dont think JB works without Kroil.
 
10-4 on what EddieF said,,,,, best penetrating oil I`ve seen....
moly coating..... go to Norma website......
carbon removal.... GM top engine cleaner....
OMHO
 
NesikaChad said:
In all honesty as a penetrating oil it's "ok". To date the best stuff I've seen (and this is also supported by many other full time machinists on the forums devoted to that) is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. (ATF meaning auto trans fluid). Someone somewhere sometime ago sat down and did a big ol write up about it using torque wrenches, etc on frozen bolts. ATF/acetone beat all the "snake oil" cures sold at auto parts stores and Kroil was included in the test.

One guy around here that I fly RC planes with owns a hot rod shop. He swears old fashioned HOT water and SOAP also works wonders for stuck fasteners. I've not tried it so I can't comment.

I know the ATF trick sure sure works good for stuck fasteners and nitro glow engines that have locked up. So does boiling them in antifreeze!

I was introduced to Kroil as a way for cleaning smallbore guns since lead doesn't dissolve the way copper does. Kroil has a strong capillary action which is what's needed to separate two dissimilar metals apart from one another. That being said the best I've seen for this do date is called TSI 301. It's tough to find, but well worth it. It's also a killer dry film lub once the carrier flashes off. It's non flammable and works very well for cleaning/servicing precision air guns. (how I learned about when servicing the anschutz stuff)

I do use Kroil as a lube when putting the final fluff/buff on a chamber. I just wet my 240grit emery with it and swish the chamber after reaming. I also use it for barrels that are stubborn when removing from an action. (also use a hot air gun) I do this mainly cause I have a large supply of it and I've done it this way for a long time that I'm kinda stuck in my ways. I doubt Kroil leaves a better finish than WD 40 or any other light film lubricant on a chamber when polishing with emery. I've used both and have not seen one difference (other than Kroil costing more)

Hope this helped.

C
Click to expand...

I made a living for 34 years removing and repairing screwed up threads at least three hours a day. I soon learned to throw every easy out in the scrap tub. But years prior to being stuck with that job I worked with old Germans and race car builders. They argued and cussed each other by the minute, but each one had a pint can of Kroil on his bench. They could have had anything they wanted, but that was the first thing they ever reached for. A few years later I goto work for somebody else, and the first thing I asked for was a can of Kroil. They didn't even know what it was! My boss orders in a case of pint cans due to my prodding. Almost as soon as we got it a plate comes in with about a dozen broken bolts. I take the can of Kroil and doused each thread, and just laid it out of the way. They wanted to just go ahead and send it to the tool room to let them drill them out (set screws). The next day I come in and slide the plate over to work on it. Take a dental pick and take every screw out in about ten minutes. I then run a tap thru every hole and told the boss to tell them to come and get it. Now everybody's gotta have a can of it. I tell them the trick is to let it soak for at least eight hours. A few years later I get sent a half mile north to run a bench in the tool room repairing machine tools and making new machine parts. I've used every trick in the book except for acetone, and that would have been a no no in there. The hot soapy water trick will work if you use the right kind of soap, and the water has to be boiling hot. You need a very caustic floor tripper, and even then you really want to avoid using it on aluminum. I've also used muratic acid to remove rust from the inside of threads to free a bolt up. But no matter what was my newest scheme I always fell back on Kroil. The one advantage of the boiling hot water was that it will soften Loctite. The next best stuff I ever found was from Chesterton, and it either #711 or #777. The best method to remove broken screws is a Kroil soak and an electric or air powered engraving tool. I've removed hundred of screws that way, and it dosn't care if they're left handed or right handed. Or for that matter a 4-40 or a 1.00-40.

Look for a machine coolant called "Trim." Comes in cans that are to be added with water to give a coolant that looks similar to a bluesh milk. The most accurate threads and reamed holes I ever saw were cut with raw Trim (no water added) simply painted on with a paint brush! Finish is a satin, and will not wipe off under high tool pressure (looks like snot in the raw state). It's even better that strait Triclorethelene for accuracey, and a heck of a lot safer. Plus it works well on stainless steel and aluminum
gary
 
bill larson said:
10-4 on what EddieF said,,,,, best penetrating oil I`ve seen....
moly coating..... go to Norma website......
carbon removal.... GM top engine cleaner....
OMHO
Click to expand...

Marvels Mistory Lube works well too, and somewhere you can add Mercury Outboard cleaning fluid. I cleaned a lot of race car stuff with it.
gary
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top