Kroil

skeetlee

Active member
Whats all the rave about with Kroil? It seems ever shooter has a can. I am having issues with it gumming up on me. I dont know if it is because of heat from firing the gun or just what, but i think its a pain in the neck. I use it very lightly to clean chambers and bolts and i use a bit of it on the firing pin spring. I use greese of course on my luggs. I just dont think i am going to continue using it. I must admit, I do love the smell!! Anyone else feel the same as i do? Even the top of the can is all gummed up! Lee
 
I just got some and I'm not impressed with it either... I had been told it dissolved carbon and moly. I wet the bore and let it sit overnight then dried the bore and checked it with a borescope, still black. Gave it another half day, still black. I ended up soaking a patch in Kroil and coating it with JB bore paste and that took out the moly. - nhk
 
Your disappointment should probably be directe at the person who told you it would "dissolve carbon and moly."

OK, what is it supposed to do? I wouldn't want to use it as an air freshner :rolleyes: - nhk
 
I will also say that i do like using it to help brake in new barrels. Mr Walt Berger shared this idea with me. it seems to work!! lee
 
Kroil is simply a very good penetrating oil. It creeps very well.

It does not dissolve anything, but does get under everything and helps lift the carbon and etc. to ease in cleaning.
 
kroil smells good

I squirt it on the floor and into my wastebasket, makes the room smell minty-fresh

al
 
Kroil is simply a very good penetrating oil. It creeps very well.

It does not dissolve anything, but does get under everything and helps lift the carbon and etc. to ease in cleaning.

been using Kroil for about forty years as a penetrating oil. Nothing comes close to it! I also use it as a final wipe out on a barrel I shoot nothing but moly coated bullets it. I've never used it in the action, and don't see any advantages in that use.
gary
 
In all honesty as a penetrating oil it's "ok". To date the best stuff I've seen (and this is also supported by many other full time machinists on the forums devoted to that) is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. (ATF meaning auto trans fluid). Someone somewhere sometime ago sat down and did a big ol write up about it using torque wrenches, etc on frozen bolts. ATF/acetone beat all the "snake oil" cures sold at auto parts stores and Kroil was included in the test.

One guy around here that I fly RC planes with owns a hot rod shop. He swears old fashioned HOT water and SOAP also works wonders for stuck fasteners. I've not tried it so I can't comment.

I know the ATF trick sure sure works good for stuck fasteners and nitro glow engines that have locked up. So does boiling them in antifreeze!

I was introduced to Kroil as a way for cleaning smallbore guns since lead doesn't dissolve the way copper does. Kroil has a strong capillary action which is what's needed to separate two dissimilar metals apart from one another. That being said the best I've seen for this do date is called TSI 301. It's tough to find, but well worth it. It's also a killer dry film lub once the carrier flashes off. It's non flammable and works very well for cleaning/servicing precision air guns. (how I learned about when servicing the anschutz stuff)

I do use Kroil as a lube when putting the final fluff/buff on a chamber. I just wet my 240grit emery with it and swish the chamber after reaming. I also use it for barrels that are stubborn when removing from an action. (also use a hot air gun) I do this mainly cause I have a large supply of it and I've done it this way for a long time that I'm kinda stuck in my ways. I doubt Kroil leaves a better finish than WD 40 or any other light film lubricant on a chamber when polishing with emery. I've used both and have not seen one difference (other than Kroil costing more)

Hope this helped.

C
 
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Your disappointment should probably be directe at the person who told you it would "dissolve carbon and moly."
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D


Don't throw it away just yet. Mix it with your favorite mild bore cleaner, Hoppes, Shooters Choice etc. Roughly 30-40% Kroil.
The theory is the mix will creep under the moly carbon easier allowing the bore cleaner to attack from two sides.
If nothing else it will make your bore cleaner last longer:D
 
Let's see, Kroil, ATF/Actone, Marvel Mystery Oil & PAL Marine, all do the same thing. They just work better when mixed with a good carbon removing compound. For Lead removal, you use something that removes or dissolves lead.
 
kroil smells good

I squirt it on the floor and into my wastebasket, makes the room smell minty-fresh

al
Al,
Are you sure you're not drinkin' the stuff ?
Best,

Dan Batko

"Where are we going and why am I in this basket?"
 
I find this whole "creeping under the moly and carbon" idea to be laughable.

There is ONE good answer to the moly problem. Quit with the moly already!

and shifting carbon?? C'mon.... Butch's boreshine makes short work of carbon. TOUCH it to the carbon, don't worry about "creeping" and crawling and worrying it loose from the edges, just hit it with a REAL bore solvent and make it go away! And BTW Butch's does the same thing to moly.

And if that don't work, step up to Montana Extreme.... this stuff is incredible. It's Butch's on steroids. Just the ODOR of it wafting around the room sends the molycarbon gremlins scampering. Incidentally the Montana Extreme 50BMG Carbon Killer mix is my Go-To for sprinkling around when I want privacy. Whereas Kroil creates all sorts of unpleasantness (I have to carefully bathe before going out or women swoon and even men turn with a longing look, taking two-three involuntary steps toward The Source......) the M.E. stuff is like having a pet named Pepe' Le'Pew. I could drink the stuff and regularly leave an open bottle around or even dab some on a paper towel to keep by my stool while turning necks and such, but there are those (generally democrats) who find it "offensive."

I relate to this viscerally

Good Stuff

for me

al
 
(Would you share the idea with us. Thanks )
Not real sure to be real honest but i would have to think it has something to do with the lubricting properties it has. When walt was telling me about all this i didnt question him, it just tried it with a new barrel i bought shortly after that particular shoot, and if nothing else it sure didnt hurt anything. I had zero copper problems from that barrel from the very start. heck i may not have had anyway. I dont know!! LOL!!! I just dont like how this stuff gums up! I think i will just use it in my Butches like said above. I have been doing that for a while now. that was another piece of walt berger's advice to me. Lee
 
I have tried most if not all of the stuff and mixes in the previous posts. It is certainly
possible that some barrels are more stubborn, but it seems very difficult to remove
baked on and rolled in powder fowling in some barrels. I know for sure these barrels were
not neglected. It seems doubtful that Kroil or anything else can get under this stuff, at
least it hasn't for me , and I have soaked them for a month at a time in various things.
I hate squeese tubes, so have diluted Iosso with Kroil( not because I think Kroil has value
but because it does mix) It goes on a patch without mess and also a brush. It works
in very few strokes, thats a big plus to me. And add a ball bearing to the bottle so
you can keep it stirred, though it doesn't separate like rem clean
 
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