J
jimfinn
Guest
I seem to remember that some folks were doing a mod that allowed you to put a jewel trigger on a 52D. If this is true, is there any chance you'd be willing to share that information?
Thanks
Jim
Thanks
Jim
J
jimfinn
Guest
Thanks Fred,
I'll probably look into that. I just thought I remembered someone on here saying that they had either done it or had a Jewel put on their 52.
I'll probably look into that. I just thought I remembered someone on here saying that they had either done it or had a Jewel put on their 52.
Kent Owens
Well-known member
Jim,
I've seen Jewell triggers fitted to 52's by Lamon Loggins. A slot has to be milled in the bottom of the action for the trigger and a hanger made, and on a 'D" or "C" you'd use a firing pin from a "B" that had the sear contact in the rear. Of course then it has to all be fitted correctly, and in the right place, etc., to get the proper sear contact with the trigger sear an and rear firing pin sear contact. It can be done, but quite a bit of work.
As was said on a D model it probably be a lot simpler to get Kenyon or Hongisto, or Russel to trick up the original. I hear they work very well once modified. Best of luck with it.
I've seen Jewell triggers fitted to 52's by Lamon Loggins. A slot has to be milled in the bottom of the action for the trigger and a hanger made, and on a 'D" or "C" you'd use a firing pin from a "B" that had the sear contact in the rear. Of course then it has to all be fitted correctly, and in the right place, etc., to get the proper sear contact with the trigger sear an and rear firing pin sear contact. It can be done, but quite a bit of work.
As was said on a D model it probably be a lot simpler to get Kenyon or Hongisto, or Russel to trick up the original. I hear they work very well once modified. Best of luck with it.
J
jimfinn
Guest
Hi Kent,
Yikes
That does sound like an awful lot of work. And if it isn't done perfectly you'd be prety much screwed. A local guy here has a few 52D/C triggers and he might be talked into parting with one. If I can get one it will probably get sent right off the Butch.
Thanks guys for bringing me down to earth!
Jim
Yikes
That does sound like an awful lot of work. And if it isn't done perfectly you'd be prety much screwed. A local guy here has a few 52D/C triggers and he might be talked into parting with one. If I can get one it will probably get sent right off the Butch.Thanks guys for bringing me down to earth!
Jim
Kent Owens
Well-known member
Jim,
Didn't mean to talk you out of the idea, just letting you know what was involved. Personally, if I were switching the trigger I'd probably go with a 5018 Anschutz trigger. I just rebarrelled a 1907 Anschutz for a friend of mine and the 5018 trigger is a great one, kind of impressed me. You'd still have to mill a flat, drill and tap 2 holes to hold the trigger on. etc., and mill a small slot for the trigger sear to stick thru and contact the firing pin, and use a firing pin with a rear 90 degree sear contact. It'd be expensive, but should work great.
I really like the 52 C's and D's and the way the sear contact is about mid bolt. It's just an opinion but I think it helps to prevent binding on the locking lugs that are in the rear, and helps with vibration as well.
If you can get the original trigger to 2-3 ozs. it should be a very good one.
Didn't mean to talk you out of the idea, just letting you know what was involved. Personally, if I were switching the trigger I'd probably go with a 5018 Anschutz trigger. I just rebarrelled a 1907 Anschutz for a friend of mine and the 5018 trigger is a great one, kind of impressed me. You'd still have to mill a flat, drill and tap 2 holes to hold the trigger on. etc., and mill a small slot for the trigger sear to stick thru and contact the firing pin, and use a firing pin with a rear 90 degree sear contact. It'd be expensive, but should work great.
I really like the 52 C's and D's and the way the sear contact is about mid bolt. It's just an opinion but I think it helps to prevent binding on the locking lugs that are in the rear, and helps with vibration as well.
If you can get the original trigger to 2-3 ozs. it should be a very good one.
"I really like the 52 C's and D's and the way the sear contact is about mid bolt. It's just an opinion but I think it helps to prevent binding on the locking lugs that are in the rear, and helps with vibration as well."
Kent:
That's the reason I like the 52's as well. It's strange, that most all custom makers, will emulate the locking lug feature of the 52, but still haven't gotten the trigger figured out.
Kent:
That's the reason I like the 52's as well. It's strange, that most all custom makers, will emulate the locking lug feature of the 52, but still haven't gotten the trigger figured out.
flatlander
New member
Jim, I sent my 52D triggers to Karl Kenyon to have him modify them, and honestly feel they're both about as good as the Anschutz (5071 IIRC) on my 1611 prone rifle. That's high praise - I really like the Anschutz. Karl charged $135 each to do the work - and I feel I got my money's worth. If anyone else has figured out how Karl does a 52 trigger, and is able to duplicate his results, I'd like to hear about it.
X
xs hedspace
Guest
Don't know what else he does, but I know he redrills the trigger pivot point further up, to get better leverage from the finger end. Did one 52D myself, and have it set at 4 oz. Had to use a carbide drill to get through that hard Winchester steel. Slight increase in travel, but nice.