Help!!

Joe S

Member
I was checking case length on some brass as I was removing it from the tumbler with my caliper and somehow a small granule of media fell in the gear track unnoticed, and when I went to adjust them the piece of grit caused them to skip a few teeth before I could react to the binding, resulting in them now measuring about 0.030" with the jaws shut. I know how to zero the dial needle to the shut jaws but that puts the "0" 90 degrees out of place. Is there anyway to reset the dial to zero in the proper position at home or am I S.O.L.? I hate to think I might be doomed to measuring with one eye shut and my head tilted fully to my side for the rest of my reloading life to read my dial.
Is replacement my best bet?
I don't see any obvious damage to the teeth on the exposed rail.
I will check them for accuracy after resetting on a pin gage or block set I believe I can get access to, but 1st things 1st.
 
On the older model calipers there was a slot you could push gear down and rezero. Newer ones I have not seen any in awhile. So if your up to it take rack loose and pull out slightly take a small jewelers screw driver or needle and turn gears , then slide rack back in check your zero it might take a couple of tries but it can be rezeroed..
 
If they are Mititoyo's, on some models there is a slot in the top for a small "wrench," basically a small rectangular strip of metal that reaches down into works that allows you to skip over teeth, so you can line things up again.

I think you can adjust other models by using a thin strip of shim stock, reaching in between the rack and spindle teeth, and "skipping" teeth.
 
Joe All is not lost.:) Clean the rack and the gear,than get a thin piece of brass shim stock and cut it into the shape of the letter "P". The straight part of the letter P will need to be the a little narrower then the width of the rack and be long enough to slip behind the dial and slid between the gear and the rack. This will allow you to reset the needle's posiition. It might take you a couple tries.
The other end of the is shaped large enough to hold on to.

Hal
 
If they are Mititoyo's, on some models there is a slot in the top for a small "wrench," basically a small rectangular strip of metal that reaches down into works that allows you to skip over teeth, so you can line things up again.

I think you can adjust other models by using a thin strip of shim stock, reaching in between the rack and spindle teeth, and "skipping" teeth.


These are Mititoyo and do appear to have a "slot". If I can find something to work in it do I move the dial or the jaws to adjust?
 
There should have been a "wrench" in the box they came in.
The wrench measures .042" by .060" in cross section.
Close the jaws all the way, insert wrench until it stops, and open the jaws slightly. You will feel a click. Remove wrench a little, close jaws, and the needle should have moved. Continue to do this until the needle is back at the top.

Hope this helps.
 
There should have been a "wrench" in the box they came in.
The wrench measures .042" by .060" in cross section.
Close the jaws all the way, insert wrench until it stops, and open the jaws slightly. You will feel a click. Remove wrench a little, close jaws, and the needle should have moved. Continue to do this until the needle is back at the top.

Hope this helps.

Rick I couldn't find a wrench for the caliper, just a old one for my Starret Mic. I'm sure it is hiding in plan sight somewhere in my work room. I did however get a small piece of wire to work and it seems to be OK for the moment. measured a couple different caliber bullets on the bench and they looked be within 0.0005" of the makers claim according to the caliper if I read between the lines correctly. Close enough for reloading if it holds.
Thanks you very much for the help!!
Joe S
 
You are welcome! Glad I could be of some help.
It should hold, I've had a chip in the works several times, and after cleaning it out, and re-zeroing, mine have held until, well, the next time it picked up a chip....
 
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