HELP new X-Mark Pro trigger

A

alinwa

oft dis'd member
Have any of you guys messed with Remington's new trigger? I just tore one down to adjust it and found it to be a piece of junk IMO........


What am I missing?

Isn't this the trigger which is being praised as the "New Generation" of upgraded triggers?

I found:

-Overtravel screw is integrated with the safety and (staked?) in place. LOOKS to be non-adjustable. I tried Xylene, isopropyl and acetone on the locking gunk, acetone cut it but allen screw would not break free.

-Tension screw works fine but the included spring is HEAVY, I traded out for a light spring but it had little effect on trigger pull.

-Sear engagement was huge and leverage was poor due to placement of trigger pin. I mean leverage is POOR, like "NO-lever", just sliding off of sear by direct drive. I didn't touch any engagement surfaces as I can't see it being a safe mod AND the surfaces are supposed to be hardened? Engagement was even and clean across surface. Sear engagement adjustment also seemed to be staked.


I didn't heat anything, I was out of time so I traded in a reworked 700 trigger (a real one) so's the guy can go hunting.


Are there any tricks to this thing? It's worse than some of Ruger's Post-Lawsuit triggers.


help :confused:


al
 
It is a pain compared to the old triggers. The little clips that need to be removed for total disassembly are the hardest to work with. I have taken a few to 2 to 2.5 pounds okay.

I ignore the over travel screw, it is not that important and most 700 trigger problems I see are when guys set the over travel too tight.

Now that you have one in hand work away Al... :D
 
So you took the clips off ( "a pain" is an understatement) and reground the sear surfaces to shorten the engagement? Or did you get the engagement screw loose?

These things have absolutely zero mechanical advantage that I can see without removing the sideplates (by grinding! :rolleyes:) The trigger's as rudimentary as one of those old crossbow kits from the 70's......

I actually thought of changing the angle of the engagement surface of the striker bar! This would lessen the down-pressure exerted on the sear.

DUMB design.

al
 
Agreed that the new trigger's not anywhere near what the old one is (was.) I can see increased sales of Shilen, Jewell, Timney, etc. I've worked on exactly one, and will recommend replacement triggers to customers in the future. This thing just looks like a typical "lawyerized" makeover.
 
Well, a target trigger they ain't.

But I've had good luck as Dennis says bringing them down to the 2.5lb range quite easily.

To me the contact surfaces are much better finished on this trigger than the old ones. Some of the old ones I've done were awful to say the least. The ones I've done had even contact and broke fairly well. Plenty well for a hunting rifle.

But they are more labor intensive.
 
alinwa said:
So you took the clips off ( "a pain" is an understatement) and reground the sear surfaces to shorten the engagement? Or did you get the engagement screw loose?

These things have absolutely zero mechanical advantage that I can see without removing the sideplates (by grinding! :rolleyes:) The trigger's as rudimentary as one of those old crossbow kits from the 70's......

I actually thought of changing the angle of the engagement surface of the striker bar! This would lessen the down-pressure exerted on the sear.

DUMB design.

al
Click to expand...

I very lightly buff the sear with a 400 grit soft wheel and then a black wheel.. I was able to get the engagement screw loose with heat.

It is easier to change the angle of the cocking piece so it does not exert as much down pressure. There is usually quite a bit to work with as most factory 700's have quite a bit of "cock on closing" built in...
 
"Labor intensive???"

My achin' butt! Tell me HOW did you get the sear engagement screw to budge? and what tool do you use on the silly little split rings? I want descriptions! :)

Have you ever had the sideplates off? HOW?

Is the trigger REALLY just a straight up single lever?

al
 
So I'm gonna' take the .061 allen head tip that I broke off and stuff it in the hole and heat it up with a torch until it sizzles spit......then I'm gonna' pull it out and hit it up with a good right-angle allen wrench....

We'll see.


al
 
alinwa said:
"Labor intensive???"

My achin' butt! Tell me HOW did you get the sear engagement screw to budge? and what tool do you use on the silly little split rings? I want descriptions! :)

Have you ever had the sideplates off? HOW?

Is the trigger REALLY just a straight up single lever?

al
Click to expand...

I heated the area of the engagement screw with a propane torch for a few seconds...

I picked with sharp picks at the little rings... and do it on a clean bench with a magnet underneath..

I don't take side plates apart... they are not meant to do that.

The trigger inside is much the same as the old trigger.

I think if you back the screws way out you can shake the sear out just like the old trigger.. I can't remember if I did that or not.. gettin' old I guess.:D
 
BTW Dennis, I got a trick for you :)

I plan on taking the rings off inside of one of the big 5-gallon ziplok plastic bags, probably WITH a magnet.

I think you're right about the sideplates, they're definitely not meant to come off.

al
 
I just finished redoing one.

I loosened the adjustment screw by heating it with a pencil tip soldering iron for 10-12 seconds...came right out. Yeah, the little clips are a pain but not too bad. The engagement surfaces were much better than the later pre-X Mark triggers. I ended up with a bit over 2 lbs. pull weight. It's consistent, has no creep and is safe at this weight. I didn't try going much lower than this since it's a hunting rig. I do miss the grooved surface of the earlier trigger shoes.

All in all..not too bad for a huntin' rig. -Al
 
no problem here

:):)You can get the sealent off the pull wt. screw without heat,but not the sear and overtravel screws,they need torch heat.I have three of them and got a good trigger without messing with anything but the pull wt.There is a guy in calif. that sells new springs for them,get the varmint wt. spring,and they will go down to 1.5# safely,at least mine did.
 
Remington "X" trigger(s)

alinwa: Remingtons' "answer" to the Savage trigger: not! Take it out, throw it in the garbage can where it belongs, and replace with one of the superior "RifleBasix", "jewell", etc. after market quality triggers.
 
Did I get the only other good one?

My experience was even easier than Al Nyhus'. I just picked the clear nail polish out of the (lower) allen head screw & gave a turn or two. The result is a 2 lb trigger, nice & crisp. It is what it is - a good hunting trigger.

I didn't touch the clip that holds the safety cross pin, but I'd replace it with a standard size C-clip - you can even get them from Home Depot. The new X-MARK PRO trigger has the (upper) trigger stop screw on a lever that moves with the safety. It looks like that blocks the trigger from moving when the safety is on, and moves forward to stop the overtravel when the safety is off. There's also suppose to be a sear block, but I haven't taken the trigger apart to look for this.

The now discontinued J-lock was a problem. I took the firing pin out of the bolt & the spring doesn't have the kinks like with the J-lock. That's an improvement. The ejector spring is STRONG and may benefit from clipping a turn or two.

Regards, Ron
 
alinwa said:
"Labor intensive???"

My achin' butt! Tell me HOW did you get the sear engagement screw to budge? and what tool do you use on the silly little split rings? I want descriptions! :)

Have you ever had the sideplates off? HOW?

Is the trigger REALLY just a straight up single lever?

al
Click to expand...

Gotta love your energy al.:D

I use one of those little butane "crack" torches to unlock the sear engagement screw. The guts do come out of it just like the old ones. The ones I've done were very well finished and square. Much better than the Ruger triggers you spoke of!!

I used o ring picks on the rings. I just take my time.

I haven't taken the side plates off cause I don't see where I've needed to.

Yes, it's pretty much a straight lever but I've easily reached my target weight on them which I keep around 2.5lbs. for hunting rifles.

For the serious shooters I just drop an aftermarket in cause they will be much more satisfied with it. I don't try to make these factory triggers into something they ain't.



And yes, I still find them labor intensive!!:D:D
 
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