Fellas i need to build a heavy duty target stand for my range. My wooden backer is wearing out, so the next one i build needs to be made with a steel frame. I have some ideas, but i thought i might see what you fellas have done or seen? I would like to make this backer to be able to slip it in or out of a base system at ground grade. Tube inside of tube, or something similar. Needs to have some weight and ridgitity. Wind blows pretty heavy out here! Any thoughts? I priced some steel this afternoon. All i can say about that is, OUCH!!!!! Lee
Heavy duty target backer. Any ideas?
- Thread starter skeetlee
- Start date
don carter
New member
Backer
In Wyoming I saw some large ones. Steel frames with channels on each end that they slid a sheet of plywood into. This was at a gun club. Not sure how often they replaced the plywod. Their's were 4X8 sheets. If you moved the target around on the backer it might last for years if the plywood didn't come apart. Don
In Wyoming I saw some large ones. Steel frames with channels on each end that they slid a sheet of plywood into. This was at a gun club. Not sure how often they replaced the plywod. Their's were 4X8 sheets. If you moved the target around on the backer it might last for years if the plywood didn't come apart. Don
David Halblom
Flying Fish Fundamentals
Lee take a look at the top....
photo on the "price sheet" page on my website.....www.flyingfishfundamentals.com That is one of 5 target frames I built for my "home" range, Boone Valley Ikes. 25 benches. The poles are some reclaimed chain link fence posts, they fit into 2" PVC pipe sunk in the ground w/concrete. The target frame is a skeleton of 2x2 w/ skin of Vinyl, the stuff you can buy in 4x8 sheets at Menards for doing a quicky shower stall.
Get me a snailmail address and I will send you my drawings for the framework
photo on the "price sheet" page on my website.....www.flyingfishfundamentals.com That is one of 5 target frames I built for my "home" range, Boone Valley Ikes. 25 benches. The poles are some reclaimed chain link fence posts, they fit into 2" PVC pipe sunk in the ground w/concrete. The target frame is a skeleton of 2x2 w/ skin of Vinyl, the stuff you can buy in 4x8 sheets at Menards for doing a quicky shower stall.
Get me a snailmail address and I will send you my drawings for the framework
4' X 8' sheets of corrugated plastic (plastic cardboard) runs about $10.00 each and hold up very well to the weather but don't splinter like plywood does. Our 200 member club replaced them about 3 times a year. We would staple them to a 1 X 6 header and footer 4 ' on vertical centers and nailed to 4" x 4" on 8 to 10 foot centers.
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Bill Wynne
Active member
Skeetlee, Assuming that you are going to leave the target stand up all the time I have some ideas: The best material for backer board that I have seen is the live stock trailer matt material. I bought some at Tractor and Supply and it comes in 48" x 72" sheets (about $40). This material in rubber and 3/4" thick. It will take many hits (Thousands) and will close up over them. I don't know how long this material used like this will last but I am sure it would be in the years. How long will a tire last until it is eaten up by dry rot?
Let me suggest that you use a 4" x 4" square tubing set in concrete for the base with gravel in the bottom to soak up water and a tube of 1.5" or 2" square for your frame. Now take a piece of wood lumber of about 1.5" x 1.5" about 12 " long and rip it into two wedges by cutting it from opposite corners. Put the first wedge in upside down and tap the other one in with the point down. This will tighten your frame up like crazy and is antelope resistant.
Note: I would not drive the second stake too tight because you might need to remove it someday.
The reason that I would use a large square tubing for the base is for clean out purposes. (Leaves, spiders, and snakes)
There now, that will work.
Bill Wynne
Active member
Lee, The rubber is no problem to a clean hole in the paper. If you like, you can staple a piece of cardboard or cloraplast to the rubber first. Staples will work fine. Thumb tacks work but are harder to push in and pull out than with cardboard or cloraplast. I have only used this rubber on a bullet trap that I have been experimenting with and it works good. I don't have any idea how many rounds it takes to destroy this rubber but it is a whole lot.
If you use this method, please let us know how it works in real life. You would be a boon to humanity or at least a help to us shooters.
Bill
R
Rembrandt
Guest
We use "Cow Mats" bolted and hung from a steel frame.....cow mats are 3/4" thick 4' X 8' rubber mats used in livestock industry to keep animals from slipping on slick concrete surfaces. Heavy enough to keep wind from moving them, reseal when bullets pass through, paper targets can be stapled or pinned to the rubber.
Bill Wynne
Active member
That is the same product that I am talking about by a different name.We use "Cow Mats" bolted and hung from a steel frame.....cow mats are 3/4" thick 4' X 8' rubber mats used in livestock industry to keep animals from slipping on slick concrete surfaces. Heavy enough to keep wind from moving them, reseal when bullets pass through, paper targets can be stapled or pinned to the rubber.
Bill