Heavy 10 and a Muzzle Flush System

E

Earl Horgeshime

Member
Is anyone using a muzzle flush system with their Heavy 10? I have all the components to build a system but I don't know how I will catch / recover the liquid. I am also undecided as to what type of cutting fluid I should use - soluable oil or water based coolant. What do you use?
 
glus h systrm

Don't use watrr bssed. Dsvid Kiff has suggestion on his websitr. Thry work.
 
High Presure Flush system

kgcoker said:
Don't use watrr bssed. Dsvid Kiff has suggestion on his websitr. Thry work.
Click to expand...

Dave Kiff has been educated to the use of Rustlick 255R cut with distilled water 5:1. I have a few reamers with over 2000 chambers cut with them and no regrinds.

I use a steel bread pan with a 3/4" hose nipple tig welded to the pan to catch and return to coolant/lubricant to the reservoir. I use 2 bungie cords to hold the catch pan in place.

Used this setup at TSJC on their Heavy 10 lathes.

Nat Lambeth
 
Earl,

Last Winter I helped my shooting friend plumb up his big jet lathe for the Ger-Tan muzzle flush system. We are just hobby machinists and home barrel fitters.

The system is very high pressure, to force chips out of the reamer flutes, and we found out real fast how messy the system can be. You need to fabricate a couple of fluid deflectors so that you don't get a bath in the cutting fluid when reaming. Fluid comes out the chamber opening sort of like a hole in a fire hose. Have only watched two chambers cut using the system and it certainly went much fast than the old method of lubing the reamer, cut a bit, and clean all the chips out.

Am not certain that you gain much in the way of a better finish when completed (at least I could not tell a difference) , it just makes the job a lot faster. As I just do bbls for myself, can't see investing the money in the system. The pump was quite expensive but the rest is reasonable.

Just my .02 worth.

Bob
 
Rustystud said:
Dave Kiff has been educated to the use of Rustlick 255R cut with distilled water 5:1. I have a few reamers with over 2000 chambers cut with them and no regrinds.

I use a steel bread pan with a 3/4" hose nipple tig welded to the pan to catch and return to coolant/lubricant to the reservoir. I use 2 bungie cords to hold the catch pan in place.

Used this setup at TSJC on their Heavy 10 lathes.

Nat Lambeth
Click to expand...

Thank you for the response. I will pick up a bread pan and see what I can do with it. I don't have TIG so I will try gas. A bread pan seems kind of thin to weld but I will give it a try.

I inherited a 5 galon pail of Rustlick PB-10 today so I will give that a try before spending any money.

I was going to ask about this and tell you I love your micrometer reamer stop when I saw you at the shot show in the PTG booth but you were very busy so I just moved on.

I really don't need a flush system for the few barrels I do in the course of a year but I happened across a new one third horse pump that will do 250 psi at around 4 gpm (carbonator pump). I picked up a pair of new rotary couplers on ebay really cheap so I thought that this project was in order.

Earl
 
bob3700 said:
Earl,

Last Winter I helped my shooting friend plumb up his big jet lathe for the Ger-Tan muzzle flush system. We are just hobby machinists and home barrel fitters.

The system is very high pressure, to force chips out of the reamer flutes, and we found out real fast how messy the system can be. You need to fabricate a couple of fluid deflectors so that you don't get a bath in the cutting fluid when reaming. Fluid comes out the chamber opening sort of like a hole in a fire hose. Have only watched two chambers cut using the system and it certainly went much fast than the old method of lubing the reamer, cut a bit, and clean all the chips out.

Am not certain that you gain much in the way of a better finish when completed (at least I could not tell a difference) , it just makes the job a lot faster. As I just do bbls for myself, can't see investing the money in the system. The pump was quite expensive but the rest is reasonable.

Just my .02 worth.

Bob
Click to expand...

Thank you for pointing out the issue of high pressure fluid coming down the barrel. In one of the videos (don't remember which one) I have seen plastic bottles (soda I believe) that were cut off and used as a shield over the reamer to keep the fluid contained. I also feel that there will be a "learning curve" and a few messes to clean up while refining the process.

Earl
 
You can try brazing or soldering the fitting if you think the pan is too thin. I made my catch pan out of a 7.62x39 ammo can.
 
I used a bread pan on mine but I used a flanged adapter that all I had to do is cut a hole then and install the outer part and thread the seal and inner part on it, I can't think of the part name of the top of my head but we use them in water livestock tanks, worked great for this as well and most all of the chips are in it when I'm done so very little make it back to the coolant tank.
 
You want to keep the hose inlet off the bottom of the pan and put some magnets in the pan. This helps keep chips out of the system. Wrap the magnets in a plastic bag to make the chips easier to clean up. You can also put magnets in your coolant tank to help control chips.
 
Catching highpresure flush..

I use the bottom 3" of a 2 liter pop bottle. I carefully melted a 7/16" hole in the center bottom. I put an O ring on both sides of the bottle bottom around the reamer shaft. I cut a 1/2" piece of heater hose to use between the bottle bottom and the floating reamer holder to keep it . I use the top of a Folgers coffee can cut to fit over the tenon up against the lathe chuck. I have the modified bred pan afixed to the ways in front of the chuck with the Folgers top turning insid the bred pan. The bred pan has a 3/4" hose pipe out the front 1/2" above the bottom of the pan. I use two bungie cords to hold the pan down on the ways. I have a small piece of wood under the far side of the pan to tilt the pan so the fluid flows down hill. I use a couple rare earth magnets in both the pan and in the bottom of my reservoir. My first pan was done with epoxy. My subsequent pans have been Tig welded.

I spent a considerable time with the engineers at Rustlic. They recomended the use of Rustlic 255R and extreme presure coolant lubricant. It is semi senthetic and clorine based. The coolant lubricant is designed to be cut 10:1, 20:1, or 30:1. I cut mine 5:1 with distilled water. My reservoir holds 15 gallons. I top it off about 4 time per year. The remainder of my coolant is stored in a plastic 55 gallon drum. I chamber about 300 barrels per year. The original Rustlic 255R has lasted me over 6 years. I think I will replace the remainder this year when I need to replinish my reservoir.

Good Luck
Nat Lambeth
 
Rustystud said:
I use the bottom 3" of a 2 liter pop bottle. I carefully melted a 7/16" hole in the center bottom. I put an O ring on both sides of the bottle bottom around the reamer shaft. I cut a 1/2" piece of heater hose to use between the bottle bottom and the floating reamer holder to keep it . I use the top of a Folgers coffee can cut to fit over the tenon up against the lathe chuck. I have the modified bred pan afixed to the ways in front of the chuck with the Folgers top turning insid the bred pan. The bred pan has a 3/4" hose pipe out the front 1/2" above the bottom of the pan. I use two bungie cords to hold the pan down on the ways. I have a small piece of wood under the far side of the pan to tilt the pan so the fluid flows down hill. I use a couple rare earth magnets in both the pan and in the bottom of my reservoir. My first pan was done with epoxy. My subsequent pans have been Tig welded.

I spent a considerable time with the engineers at Rustlic. They recomended the use of Rustlic 255R and extreme presure coolant lubricant. It is semi senthetic and clorine based. The coolant lubricant is designed to be cut 10:1, 20:1, or 30:1. I cut mine 5:1 with distilled water. My reservoir holds 15 gallons. I top it off about 4 time per year. The remainder of my coolant is stored in a plastic 55 gallon drum. I chamber about 300 barrels per year. The original Rustlic 255R has lasted me over 6 years. I think I will replace the remainder this year when I need to replinish my reservoir.

Good Luck
Nat Lambeth
Click to expand...



Thank you. I will invest in the 255R, some coffee and some soda! :)
I visited the dollar store and have several bread pans to practice making a "catch pan." First glance tells me that I may have to remove the compound while reaming to get enough clearance for the pan. My wife is getting suspicious as she is asking why I am looking for my rain coat. :eek:

Earl
 
On some lathes you can move the tailstock to the left of the carriage and have plenty of clearance. I know that you can do this on a SB Heavy 10.
 
I am an owner of a SB H10 also and at some point would like to set up with flush system, if any have some pictures I would love to see them, Tim
 
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