Have you ever heard a reamer squeak while reaming????

S

skeetlee

Active member
Had a pretty unique experience yesterday while i was chambering a ppc barrel. Got everything dialed in to about .0003 or maybe a little better but probably not, and carried on as usual. I used my reamer to cut the hole chamber on this barrel, as i am waiting on a new boring bar to come in.

Anyway while cutting the chamber the reamer felt really sticky and maybe even a little tight. I thought something funny was going on so i went slower than normal, and checked everything over really well. Bushing was fine as it was but i went ahead and put one the next size smaller on the reamer, just to be safe. Every once in a while while cutting .040 at a time i would hear a squeak sound. Of course i kinda freaked, as i thought my barrel had spun. After close examination the barrel was fine, and i was sure it was the reamer. I carried on slow. The reamer still felt sticky and it felt like there was constent pressure against my reamer, even when i wasnt feeding the tail stock in. A couple squeaks later i asked dad to come feel this and see if he knew what was happing. He took hold of the floating pusher and in a short time, SQUEAK! He said he thought that the reamer had hit some carbon in the steel?? Long story short, the chamber is really tight and i cant even use my old brass from the other barrels i have chambered with this reamer. The barrel shoot extreamly well so i am not to worried, but i am curious none the less.
The reamer is fine as we looked it over under a loop, and i used gobs of vipers venon oil to cut the chamber. The barrel was a cut rifle barrel if that has anything to do with it? I may call the barrel maker this week and ask them about this, and see if i can get 10 more of them just like it. LOL!! This barrel really shoots well!!! Anyone here ever experience anything like this? Lee
 
Is this a new reamer? I had a similar experience with a brand new reamer a while back. It seemed to cut ok but you had to crowd it even on a light cut and it was tight backing the reamer out. It was like there was not enough relief ground on it. Sent it back.
 
Not new. Not 5r. The reamer is a proven reamer. I think it was the steel?

I will also add that after the reamer would squeak the reamer would cut like normal until it hit another weird spot. I dont no and I guess it doesnt matter much anyway. The barrel flat out shoots so thats the bottom line. Other than the chamber being a little tight all is well. Lee
 
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Lee, I don't have an answer, but have seen the same thing and concur, in that I also believe it's in the steel. It's been random over the last 2-3 years....different reamers, different barrels...sometimes it's there, and usually it's not. I don't recall hearing a squeak, but the reamer is definitely tight in the chamber on some. I've talked with others that have seen the same thing. So far, no one has been able to tell me what causes it, but nothing I've found will stop it either. I'll be watching this.
 
Never heard one squeak, but as a rookie machinist I did hear a couple snap. Not a good sound. Wayne
 
I had the same thing cutting a 6 BR Norma chamber a few days ago. Only happened as I was within the last .010-.015 of finishing. It was a JGS .272 neck reamer and cut like butter until the squeek happened as I was finishing up. I couldn't see anything wrong with the chamber or the reamer. I don't know what barrel maker as I was doing a cut off and set back and didn't ask.
 
Reamer

skeetlee said:
Had a pretty unique experience yesterday while i was chambering a ppc barrel. Got everything dialed in to about .0003 or maybe a little better but probably not, and carried on as usual. I used my reamer to cut the hole chamber on this barrel, as i am waiting on a new boring bar to come in.

Anyway while cutting the chamber the reamer felt really sticky and maybe even a little tight. I thought something funny was going on so i went slower than normal, and checked everything over really well. Bushing was fine as it was but i went ahead and put one the next size smaller on the reamer, just to be safe. Every once in a while while cutting .040 at a time i would hear a squeak sound. Of course i kinda freaked, as i thought my barrel had spun. After close examination the barrel was fine, and i was sure it was the reamer. I carried on slow. The reamer still felt sticky and it felt like there was constent pressure against my reamer, even when i wasnt feeding the tail stock in. A couple squeaks later i asked dad to come feel this and see if he knew what was happing. He took hold of the floating pusher and in a short time, SQUEAK! He said he thought that the reamer had hit some carbon in the steel?? Long story short, the chamber is really tight and i cant even use my old brass from the other barrels i have chambered with this reamer. The barrel shoot extreamly well so i am not to worried, but i am curious none the less.
The reamer is fine as we looked it over under a loop, and i used gobs of vipers venon oil to cut the chamber. The barrel was a cut rifle barrel if that has anything to do with it? I may call the barrel maker this week and ask them about this, and see if i can get 10 more of them just like it. LOL!! This barrel really shoots well!!! Anyone here ever experience anything like this? Lee
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I heard one squeak one time - just before it stuck.

I was using water based coolant and learned the hard way that is not recommended.

Dave Kiff re-sharpened the reamer and I used proper lubricant an no other problems.

KG
 
kgcoker said:
I heard one squeak one time - just before it stuck.

I was using water based coolant and learned the hard way that is not recommended.

Dave Kiff re-sharpened the reamer and I used proper lubricant an no other problems.

KG
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In my case, it's been with reamers that were both new and old, that otherwise did not exhibit this before or after, on other barrels.
 
One hates to tell on himself, but i did brake a 30BR reamer here not to long ago while chambering a barrel. Not real sure why it broke, or how i broke it. I wish i knew to be quite honest. Reamer still cuts a perfect chamber though. Lee
 
I wrap paper towel around the reamer and soak it completely with fluid. Do a search, you should find posts about chatter or noise. Hasn't happened to me in a year I'd guess.
 
I've had this happen when I was using a coolant flush system. The reamer starts squeaking like crazy when you are near the end of finishing the chamber. I would stop flushing and go to a cutting oil/ATF mix and it would stop. Different reamers and different bbl. manufacturers. Leads me to believe that it's a cutting fluid issue.
 
Here is a little follow up.
I cut two more barrels this AM with the same cutting fluid and the same reamer. No problems what so ever, and nothing unusual. Had to be the steel!! Lee
 
I cut a chamber a few weeks ago that cut really tight and as I was cutting it would set up a squeal/hum for a little bit then go away. It seemed to do it soon after re entering the chamber and it seemed just like what you described. I was cutting a 338RUM chamber using water based coolant flushing through the barrel, it felt like I really had to slow my feed down and force the reamer but since I have a VFD and the coolant I played with the speed and feed so when it started again I played with the speed and I ran it up and I hit a speed that it just flat stopped any noise and the reamer just feed like it was in warm butter, I now need a reamer stop thought!
 
I would feel pretty confident in thinking its the steel. I have it happen on occasion with a particular barrel manufacturer and you can actually SEE and feel different qualities in the steel when cutting the barrel tenon and threads. I wouldn't be concerned about it though it is quite annoying knowing the steel is not as uniform as you would like! they say the proof is in the targets and I guess that's all that really matters right?

chuck
 
Please clarify "Squeak or Squeal"

I use a high pressure flush system and have had a "Squeal" from time to time. Changing feed and speed has usually cured the squeal. I have also changed the pilot before. There is a difference between "squeal and chatter". Squeal is usually from the pilot not the reamer. I have not seen the squeal have an effect on the chamber where as chatter causes an ripple effect in the chamber. Reamer "wollar" causes an elliptical instead of round chamber. The only time I have heard of reamers snapping is when the holder is not ridged enough and the reamer bights on one side.
Nat Lambeth
 
skeetlee said:
Had a pretty unique experience yesterday while i was chambering a ppc barrel. Got everything dialed in to about .0003 or maybe a little better but probably not, and carried on as usual. I used my reamer to cut the hole chamber on this barrel, as i am waiting on a new boring bar to come in.

Anyway while cutting the chamber the reamer felt really sticky and maybe even a little tight. I thought something funny was going on so i went slower than normal, and checked everything over really well. Bushing was fine as it was but i went ahead and put one the next size smaller on the reamer, just to be safe. Every once in a while while cutting .040 at a time i would hear a squeak sound. Of course i kinda freaked, as i thought my barrel had spun. After close examination the barrel was fine, and i was sure it was the reamer. I carried on slow. The reamer still felt sticky and it felt like there was constent pressure against my reamer, even when i wasnt feeding the tail stock in. A couple squeaks later i asked dad to come feel this and see if he knew what was happing. He took hold of the floating pusher and in a short time, SQUEAK! He said he thought that the reamer had hit some carbon in the steel?? Long story short, the chamber is really tight and i cant even use my old brass from the other barrels i have chambered with this reamer. The barrel shoot extreamly well so i am not to worried, but i am curious none the less.
The reamer is fine as we looked it over under a loop, and i used gobs of vipers venon oil to cut the chamber. The barrel was a cut rifle barrel if that has anything to do with it? I may call the barrel maker this week and ask them about this, and see if i can get 10 more of them just like it. LOL!! This barrel really shoots well!!! Anyone here ever experience anything like this? Lee
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Hi guys,

Has there been any more data come through on this problem recently? I have a couple of problem reamers made by a reputable make in the late 2012 early 2013 period. Not squeels, but definite problem with resistance to in feeding and difficulty backing out. Reamer occasionally wants to bind and grab, especially if forced. No problems with bore alignment, and am using reamer flush system with sulphurised neat cutting oil. No problems with same make of stainless barrels and other brand reamers, just these ones.

Is it just the back clearance issue some posters have spoken of? I have checked and there is definitely clearance there, but something is just not working right with the reamer.

Dean.
 
Guys, do these reamer problems involve stainless barrels?

As an aside, in our (industrial) shop, lathe operators would cheat by using Rapid-Tap as a cutting fluid. It provided a beautiful finish; no other fluid could compare. It did have a very strong odor, particularly as it heated. I just checked to see if it is still available, and I see reference to "new," and "old" Rapid-Tap. I wish I had some of the "old" squirreled away...
Fussy1
 
I've been trying to wrap my mind around this... so I hope the following is helpful rather than confusing. anyway, here goes:

First, my basic conclusion is that the "squeak" or "grab" described is due to reamer geometry and not necessarily steel, feed, lube, and all the other stuff.

Now in a very large nutshell, here's why. I've been using the PTG (purchased through Gre Tan) reamer stoning fixture for several years. I'm very satisfied with it and I use it a lot. in the basic instructions, it is recommended that the stoning angle across the margin of the reamer flute be set at 2.5 degrees. There's a trigonometric solution to this which results in a specification of how high the stone holder support bar is to be raised above the height of the flute.. I calculated that for my fixture this height difference is .160" so that's what I set mine at. First the flute face is set to vertical and the pointer stop is set to hold that adjustment for each flute. A height measurement is made and the bar is adjusted to be .160" higher than this. And this is supposed to give the 2.5 degree angle across the margin.... with PTG's reamers ( important point here...)

Next point of logic: with any multi fluted reamer, each flute is "offset" in a certain manner from a true TDC orientation in order to help prevent chatter. Each offset is slightly different from the others. I am not a tool maker or tool grinder so I'm not familiar with the actual dimensions involved here. I surmise that for the most part these offsets are minor in nature ( a few thousandths either way probably at most) so if the same "angle" setting is used for each flute differences will be minor enough that the overall setting will still result in a reamer that cuts correctly.

Since the amount of flute "offset" geometry can vary between makers and even between different grinds from the same maker, it follows that if the offset is "advanced" that is moved clockwise from TDC when looking from rear to front of the reamer, and the face is set vertical relative to the fixture base, and the stoning angle set according to the above, this will result in a greater relief angle at the actual cut (assuming that the actual cut occurs at TDC). Likewise if the offset is "reversed" or moved counter clockwise from TDC, the above setting method will result in a decreased relief angle.

Now if the relief angle on the margin is reduced enough, the edge will begin to cut extremely small chips (or "dust") and may actually cut very slowly or not at all. A small further reduction in angle and the chamber surface may actually take on a burnished appearance as little or no cutting is taking place. Somewhere within this parameter, the reamer will likely squeak or grab.

Now for my own anecdotal evidence.... I received a reamer from "a well known maker" in a caliber that doesn't make any difference here. I cut one chamber with it and everything was fine. On the second chamber the surface looked a little rougher, and the reamer grabbed a couple of times, so I decided to stone the reamer. First thing I noticed was that with the pointer stop of the fixture set from a previous job, the flute looked to be tilted visibly to the right... in other words, the "offset" was quite a bit different. Anyway, I adjusted the stop so the flute face was vertical and stoned away. Back in the lathe, I was horrified to see that the chamber surface was burnished, the reamer was barely cutting, and it would grab like crazy. Obviously I had changed the margin geometry significantly in the wrong direction.

Back to the stoning fixture.... I adjusted the stop to where the flutes were at their original angle and re-stoned things. And the reamer cut perfectly... no binding, no burnishing, very nice surface, and seemed to go in and pull out effortlessly.

So my tentative conclusions... and please chime on this, guys... A too small back relief (margin cutting angle) can really play games with how a reamer cuts. Flute offset will play a large role in what the actual margin cutting angle (relative to the flute face) needs to be. And if a reamer cuts "dust" or squeals or binds, it might be a good idea to stone or grind(if you've got the capability) a slightly larger margin angle on the reamer flutes. Also note that these observations only pertain to the major diameter body section of the reamer. Neck, throat, and shoulder don't seem to have the same effects imho.

Ok, flame away!
 
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