Glasses and scope problem

[gabe ledesma]

Yes its that time in my Life that i just cant shoot any more with out my Glasses, what a pain in the ASS. The problem that i am having is that in order for me to get the parolax fixed on my scope now at 100-200 yds my scope gets blury. I never realy hav adjusted the scope from the ring in the back, is that what i have to do now? or do i need better shooting glasses. the glasses that i shoot with ar reading glasses, my prescription glasses makes it hard for me when i shoot beacuse of wher the line in the glasses ar. my scope is a Leupold 40x45 comp. OK you 4 eyed shooting afecionados whats going on ,and how can i correct this?

 

[Dick Grosbier]

I am surprised you can shoot at all with reading glasses. That is the wrong approach use the upper part of your bifocals, forget the line, I do not even see it.
Also the rear adjustment is only to make the reticle sharpest, point it at sky or a blank background set it and then leave it alone.
You should never have been shooting without glasses it is a very effective way to lose your eyesight.
Dick

 

[glp]

What

I am surprised you can shoot at all with reading glasses. That is the wrong approach use the upper part of your bifocals, forget the line, I do not even see it.
Also the rear adjustment is only to make the reticle sharpest, point it at sky or a blank background set it and then leave it alone.
You should never have been shooting without glasses it is a very effective way to lose your eyesight.
Dick

Dick says and just focus the scope using the parallax adjustment to the sharpest focus you can using your prescription glasses and forget about it. Should be dooable unless you have a scope issue. Greg

 

[Pete Wass]

Question:

The advice here usually is to adjust the paralax to where the sharpest immage is, however, I see a lot of guys adjusting their paralax to where the reticle does not move when one moves their head slightly from side to side and up and down. When one adjusts their scope to where the reticle stops moving, the sharpest immage is frequently gone, my Leup Comp scope being the exception. Not to cause confusion or to create an arguement here but which is the correct way to make that adjustment?


Another point is, often when I adjust the paralax the reticle goes fuzzy. I use the ocular adjustment to sharpen the reticle after I have set the Paralax. Now, this most often happens with 6X scopes but I have had the same situation with Weavers and other lower end high power scopes.

 

[Dick Grosbier]

Question:

The advice here usually is to adjust the paralax to where the sharpest immage is, however, I see a lot of guys adjusting their paralax to where the reticle does not move when one moves their head slightly from side to side and up and down. When one adjusts their scope to where the reticle stops moving, the sharpest immage is frequently gone, my Leup Comp scope being the exception. Not to cause confusion or to create an arguement here but which is the correct way to make that adjustment?


Another point is, often when I adjust the paralax the reticle goes fuzzy. I use the ocular adjustment to sharpen the reticle after I have set the Paralax. Now, this most often happens with 6X scopes but I have had the same situation with Weavers and other lower end high power scopes.

Well Pete
In the examples you lay out the question is do you want to see the sharpest image or do you want the best control of where you are actually aiming ? Ideally they would be one and the same but like you I have seen them be slightly different.

 

[Boyd Allen]

The solution to that dilemma lies in a slight refinement of the eyepiece focus. When you have a situation where zero parallax and peak target sharpness do not occur at the same point of objective focus, the eyepiece is not focused precisely at the plane of the reticule. This can easily happen, and in my experience may usually be remedied by working back and forth between the two adjustments, once the initial settings are found. Over the years I have done this a number of times. One of the problems in this area is that the instructions that are usually given while adequate for average hunting scopes, and the magnifications that they usually have, high magnification scopes, and the expectations of their users, require more refinement in adjustment technique. I hesitated to post this because it is not uncommon for someone who has not done what I describe to disagree with this advice, in some cases very rudely.

 

[alinwa]

The solution to that dilemma lies in a slight refinement of the eyepiece focus. When you have a situation where zero parallax and peak target sharpness do not occur at the same point of objective focus, the eyepiece is not focused precisely at the plane of the reticule. This can easily happen, and in my experience may usually be remedied by working back and forth between the two adjustments, once the initial settings are found. Over the years I have done this a number of times. One of the problems in this area is that the instructions that are usually given while adequate for average hunting scopes, and the magnifications that they usually have, high magnification scopes, and the expectations of their users, require more refinement in adjustment technique. I hesitated to post this because it is not uncommon for someone who has not done what I describe to disagree with this advice, in some cases very rudely.

Ba-da-BING!!!

But I will disagree Boyd, hopefully not "rudely"

I'm wit' Boyd on this, you CAN (must?) get it all, EVERYTHING clear and focused and STOPPED, but for me it ain't "easy." It's a lot of fiddling. Worst ever for me was a 10-60 March...

IMO if you lose it in competition it's better to have a fuzzy crosshair with zero movement than to have a clear crosshair that moves.

opinionby





al

 

[tim]

Question:

The advice here usually is to adjust the paralax to where the sharpest immage is, however, I see a lot of guys adjusting their paralax to where the reticle does not move when one moves their head slightly from side to side and up and down. When one adjusts their scope to where the reticle stops moving, the sharpest immage is frequently gone, my Leup Comp scope being the exception. Not to cause confusion or to create an arguement here but which is the correct way to make that adjustment?


Another point is, often when I adjust the paralax the reticle goes fuzzy. I use the ocular adjustment to sharpen the reticle after I have set the Paralax. Now, this most often happens with 6X scopes but I have had the same situation with Weavers and other lower end high power scopes.

You do not have the reticle focused properly, in all probability. If not done proberly you will often experience blurry image. It has to be done quickly and mor than once or you eye will adjust until you get to a target requiring time. The older you get, the more frequently this needs to be adjusted. In a quality scope you should get both shap reticle and image and the more powerful the optic the finer the reticle adjustment needs to be. On my March's it has taken quite some time to zero in on the retivle focus with the eyepiece.

 

[bisley]

My shooting buddy is a good 20 years older than me, and his eye sight is failing.
He can't really shoot with regular glasses,but I have an idea.
I want him to get some disposable contact lenses,I kinda figure a month supply would be enough to 30 trips to the range a year.
He's all for the contact lenses,but I going to have take to eye doctor(keeps putting it off).
Hope this helps.

 

[Del Martin]

+1 for Dick. Everyone should be shooting with glasses. That is not contact lenses. I often get ripped for saying this but so be it.
There was a gentleman who posted on this site a while back that wrote the definitive piece on scopes and scope adjustment. I saved it but hesitate to post it here because it is so long. It might have been Gene Davis but not sure. It really is the best description I've read on what to do and what not to do. If anyone else has it and wants to post it go ahead.

 

[gabe ledesma]

Question:

The advice here usually is to adjust the paralax to where the sharpest immage is, however, I see a lot of guys adjusting their paralax to where the reticle does not move when one moves their head slightly from side to side and up and down. When one adjusts their scope to where the reticle stops moving

Pete that is the problem i am having now with my new glasses. And yes Dick no one should be shooting without any kind of eye protection, i have allways used safety glasses in the past but the problem i am having now is with my prescription glasses ,thats why i tried reading glasses. I will try the upper part of my bifocals next time. Gabe

 

[David Halblom]

Question:

The advice here usually is to adjust the paralax to where the sharpest immage is, however, I see a lot of guys adjusting their paralax to where the reticle does not move when one moves their head slightly from side to side and up and down. When one adjusts their scope to where the reticle stops moving

Pete that is the problem i am having now with my new glasses. And yes Dick no one should be shooting without any kind of eye protection, i have allways used safety glasses in the past but the problem i am having now is with my prescription glasses ,thats why i tried reading glasses. I will try the upper part of my bifocals next time. Gabe

I believe if any of you would call Leupold and talk to thier tech people, they would tell you to adjust the OCULAR lense looking into infinity( the back lense pointed up into empty space) BEFORE you even begin to adjust the paralax. You have to have a clear picture of the crosshairs in order to remove ANY paralax in a scope.

 

[lrgoodger]

I believe if any of you would call Leupold and talk to thier tech people, they would tell you to adjust the OCULAR lense looking into infinity( the back lense pointed up into empty space) BEFORE you even begin to adjust the paralax. You have to have a clear picture of the crosshairs in order to remove ANY paralax in a scope.

Ya, but by the time you have the paralax adjusted, the crosshair is out of focus again! So it is an iterative process, like Boyd said. My aging, failing eyes have proven that to me.

 

[Pete Wass]

You do not have the reticle focused properly, in all probability. If not done proberly you will often experience blurry image. It has to be done quickly and mor than once or you eye will adjust until you get to a target requiring time. The older you get, the more frequently this needs to be adjusted. In a quality scope you should get both shap reticle and image and the more powerful the optic the finer the reticle adjustment needs to be. On my March's it has taken quite some time to zero in on the retivle focus with the eyepiece.

Tim, I think you have identified the problem, part of it, at least, OLD AGE . Finally, something we can agree on

 

[Pete Wass]

The solution to that dilemma lies in a slight refinement of the eyepiece focus. When you have a situation where zero parallax and peak target sharpness do not occur at the same point of objective focus, the eyepiece is not focused precisely at the plane of the reticule. This can easily happen, and in my experience may usually be remedied by working back and forth between the two adjustments, once the initial settings are found. Over the years I have done this a number of times. One of the problems in this area is that the instructions that are usually given while adequate for average hunting scopes, and the magnifications that they usually have, high magnification scopes, and the expectations of their users, require more refinement in adjustment technique. I hesitated to post this because it is not uncommon for someone who has not done what I describe to disagree with this advice, in some cases very rudely.

I have always bucked the statement, "once the Ocular is adjusted, don't touch it again". It just ain't so for some of us. I always figured it was better to have a sharp reticle that didn't move than a sharp picture.For onest I may have been right, imagine that!

 

[tim]

Tim, I think you have identified the problem, part of it, at least, OLD AGE . Finally, something we can agree on

Frankly, eyes over 55-60 need to have the reticle focus deal checked every few months or the parallax/ image sharpness issue reappears.

 

[Mike Bryant]

You might look at this link. It's for a booster to go onto some of the benchrest scopes to give a clear reticle for people who have aged and are having eye problems. http://www.bulzeyepro.com/ I have one in the 2.5X size, but haven't had a chance to use it yet as I'm planning on using it on a Leupold 45X on a new rail gun thats on order which is probably the least important type of rifle for that kind of optical help.

 

[tim]

You might look at this link. It's for a booster to go onto some of the benchrest scopes to give a clear reticle for people who have aged and are having eye problems. http://www.bulzeyepro.com/ I have one in the 2.5X size, but haven't had a chance to use it yet as I'm planning on using it on a Leupold 45X on a new rail gun thats on order which is probably the least important type of rifle for that kind of optical help.

This has nothing to do with clarity only size. A focused reticle is a focused reticle at 2X or 50X. We might want to consider the fact that any other additional lens in the system, while adding to image size, degrades image quality.

 

[Mountain Mike]

If you are near sighted, find a set of frames you like and have lenses ground for your far correction. You might also get the primary focus point adjusted to be in line when looking through a scope. You can also get tinted lenses (mine are yellow) for optimal seeing. I would recommend Trivex for the lenses as it is extremely tough, light, and has good light transmission characteristics.

 

[Pete Wass]

Frankly, eyes over 55-60 need to have the reticle focus deal checked every few months or the parallax/ image sharpness issue reappears.

I seem to have to do it very frequently and have for a few years, except for the Frozen Leupold Competition scope I use on my VFS rifle. That one seems to stay put. I'm quite well beyond 60, I might add.