Farley rest maintenance

P

paulie

New member
I think I’m having a problem with the operation of my Farley rest.
The joystick seems to be turning in a circular motion, much more easily than I think it used to.
The top still operates well up and down, and side to side, but at times the joystick will turn when I’m not expecting it to.
Kinda disconcerting when it happens.

Is there a way to stiffen up the bearings ?, or do I need to replace them ?
thanks for any help
paul
 
The shadetree engineering upgrade will probably take care of it. I did the upgrade to mine when it was new and never had a problem. Only cost about 35.
 
I had an early (co-ax 1) with that problem an sent it back to Farley. I thought maybe they wouldn't charge me but I was wrong although they did fix it!
 
Martin,
I don't know your problem or how old your rest top was. Products normally have a time limit on warranty. Farley has upgraded their product as they went along.
 
Butch,
I had it a little less than a year. At the time I knew of a couple other ones with the same problem. As I said they did fix it but I eventually sold it and got one of their newer models that had a wider travel range. If you remember, a while back, I bought one of your tops an put it on a bald eagle slingshot. Now I'm having a hell of a time trying to decide wich one I like best!

Martin
 
If you disassemble the farley and get to the co-ax bearing. The problem lies in the tolarances between the shell of the bearing and the shaft (this is not a spinning bearing as most are familiar with). It is possible to take an tighten it by using a pointed punch and pinging it around the outside. This does not work all the time and you can go to far (it's unreversable). I look at it as "what do you have to lose" type senerio. If you use a flat tip punch instead of a pointed one, you can actually loosen the movement up so be careful. Most people have problems with the reassembly of all the pieces and getting the slack out of the plates and the guide at the bottom correct but this is mostly on the older versions. If you have an older version, I would just send it in and have it upgraded...it will solve the handle problem, add to the travel and solve most of the reassembly problem. You do have to possibly deal with "farley time".

Hovis
 
"farley time" … now that’s a good one.

I took the head apart yesterday, and did exactly what you suggest.
Seems to be working much better now.
Don’t know how long it will last, but for now – it’s better.
I think I’m going to search out some new bearings to have in inventory should the need ever arise.
thanks paul
 
Dwight said:
The shadetree engineering upgrade will probably take care of it. I did the upgrade to mine when it was new and never had a problem. Only cost about 35.
Click to expand...

No way
And BTW I like the Shadetree upgrade, but it has nothing to do with what you are describing.
 
paulie said:
"farley time" … now that’s a good one.
Click to expand...
There is really nothing good about "Farley Time " as you will discover someday if you keep dealing with Farley.
Farley makes great products but do not make any commitments, or even plans based on their time quotes.
Dick
 
It's generally a good idea to pull out the adjusters as well as the top to get at the rods the plates roll on in order to clean out old dried lube and relubricate the top. It's amazing how much better these things function with fresh lube every once and a while.
 
I have generally went away for grease for my farley's. I flush my top before every shoot with 3 in 1 oil and I like the function of it a lot better...no more stick spots, jummping or rebound. This also works with the origianl SEBs also...just work the handle and flush...work handle and flush.

Hovis
 
HovisKM said:
I have generally went away for grease for my farley's. I flush my top before every shoot with 3 in 1 oil and I like the function of it a lot better...no more stick spots, jummping or rebound. This also works with the origianl SEBs also...just work the handle and flush...work handle and flush.

Hovis
Click to expand...

I have been wondering what to use to stop my original SEB from being all sticky and jerky as well. When playing with the adjusters, it is either too sticky, or too loose.
 
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