Farley coaxial 2 tune ups?

Butch Lambert said:
The bearing in the sliding plate is just a spherical bearing. It shouldn't wear out. The shaft has to slide in the inner bearing race to work. The shaft may have a little wear. If it were me, I would see if Farley would send me a replacement shaft or make one. You will have to grind the OD as a .0003 slip fit will cause a little slop. It needs to be exact.
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I have replaced my bearings. Both bearings are epoxied to the shaft the handle goes on. There is a small spacer between them. The front Bearing is epoxied in the bearing housing ( the part with the plastic plug you can see from the front) it slides in the main housing. The rear bearing is epoxied in the bearing plate. No bearing race slides on any shaft. I don't know what my issue was. It felt like the glue on the tape had a little ''give''. It was very minor, and went away after I removed the tape.????
Farley will sell you new bearings. It's an easy job.
Butch, your tension screws are a great upgrade, love em.
Alex
 
Slow Chev,
If the shaft does not slide in the bearings it will try to lock up. You will not have full travel and the feel is a piece of shift. If you think about, if you have a mechanical mind, it won't work with the shaft loctited to the bearings.
 
Butch Lambert said:
Slow Chev,
If the shaft does not slide in the bearings it will try to lock up. You will not have full travel and the feel is a piece of shift. If you think about, if you have a mechanical mind, it won't work with the shaft loctited to the bearings.
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I am surprised you have not ever inspected your competition's product. Like I said, both inner races of the bearings are epoxied to the shaft with a spacer between. The outer race of the rear bearing is epoxied in the bearing plate. The outer race of the front bearing is epoxied in the bearing housing which slides in the main housing. Give Farley a call if you don't believe me. Good day.
 
zfastmalibu,
I don't know the internal parts of the other joystick rests and how they're assembled. But Butch is correct, the center shaft must be fixed/glued into one bearing only. It has to slide because the CTC between the bearings will stretch/shrink (back & forth) when you operate the stick. Other chance/method is, the shaft is glued into both bearings but one of the bearing must allow to slide, whether it's in the front or in the rear. Without that the rest wouldn't work, 'properly'.

seb.
 
zfastmalibu said:
I am surprised you have not ever inspected your competition's product. Like I said, both inner races of the bearings are epoxied to the shaft with a spacer between. The outer race of the rear bearing is epoxied in the bearing plate. The outer race of the front bearing is epoxied in the bearing housing which slides in the main housing. Give Farley a call if you don't believe me. Good day.
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Seb you are correct. Both methods would work. The ctc of the bearings in the Farley does not change. The front bearing is epoxied in the bearing housing. The bearing housing slides back and forth in the main body. If you have a farley, work the handle and watch the bearing housing move in and out of the body of the rest. (The bearing housing is the round steel cylinder that you see in the front of the rest. It usually has a plastic plug in the center.)
 
Hi Mike: Ive been useing the new coaix 2 for 2 seasons now, and am very happy with it's performance. Some improvments iv'e made......First was the Shadetree buttons, a total cleaning & deburring, I chamfered the Acetal mtl. edges allowing the lube easyer entry between that and the plate's. Lubed with PTFE Superlube grease, ( That Wilbur....is slicker than owl eating eel shat!! ) I set at a very light tension, and & Boy It Is Smooth! I machined a set of "bag pushers" of brass, tall enough to catch the whole bag. Opened the FE.stop slot to 3/8 & made a new fe stop of brass w/ 3/8 ss. stud and brass thumb nuts,& neoprene square shouldered rings. "no more flex" there. Made an oversized right side bag tenssioning knob for speed adj. durring match fire. Also drilled & tapped the heavy base to accecept my custom spotting scope mount. After that, I could'nt be happier with it. Good luck! Ed.
 
Oh....One more thing that some guys are doing, ( I have yet to find merrit ) some are mounting the fore end stop to the bag holder, this eliminate's the rifle from comming away from the stop durring aquisition. "I think"... makes sense.
 
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does anyone have any info as to where to buy the internal bearings ?
Farley is almost impossible to contact.
 
Paulie,
Most bearing supply houses have spherical bearings. You need to take the bearing with you if you do not have a way to accurately measure them. It is better to have your stop on your bagtop.
Slow Chev, it would work if the bearing slides.
 
Butch Lambert said:
Paulie,
Most bearing supply houses have spherical bearings. You need to take the bearing with you if you do not have a way to accurately measure them. It is better to have your stop on your bagtop.
Slow Chev, it would work if the bearing slides.
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I'd add, buy high quality spherical bearings. Not for durability, but closer tolerances for this application. If you want to do it on the cheap, buy one with an outer race that can be peened with a center punch to tighten the up on the ball. A little slop here goes way too far. That's why Butch said what he did about the joystick handle needing to be a very precise fit in the bearing. Either would have the same effect of a sloppy feel.
 
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