Farley coaxial 2 tune ups?

M

mshelton

Member
I've got an early Coaxial II rest and swapped the top out to one of the newer styles last night and I've replaced the tension screws with those from Shadetree (made a nice improvement).

Is there anything else other owners of these rests have done to slick them up or improve their operation and performance?
 
I've machined the tension screw insert from Teflon...nice improvement. Not sure what Butchs are made of.
 
Take the two .250'' pins to the buffing wheel. Degrease and clean all parts and reassemble using Moly-graph grease. Napa sells it. I spent and afternoon degreasing and trying about a dozen greases. It will eliminate the stickiness of the joy stick. I tried the Teflon tape deal, found it made minute adjustments less positive.
 
Mike isn't talking about Teflon tape. He's talking about making the ends of the tension screws from virgin Teflon rod. It is like delrin, but is much slicker and smoother. He uses it for the bearing surface on his wind flags. It is a pita to machine, but is otherwise ideal.
 
I wasn't referring to what Mike said. I understand what he did. Some people put Teflon tape or stock tape on the bearing plate to smooth up the action. It works, but I found if I tried to make a small adjustment the cross-hair would come back to the original aim point. The tape made it ''spongey''.
 
mwezell said:
I've machined the tension screw insert from Teflon...nice improvement. Not sure what Butchs are made of.
Click to expand...



Mike- What specific stock of teflon did you use? Virgin teflon or teflon impregnated acetal (Delrin)? My understanding is virgin teflon is too soft to maintain it's dimensions in such an application.
 
LHSmith said:
Mike- What specific stock of teflon did you use? Virgin teflon or teflon impregnated acetal (Delrin)? My understanding is virgin teflon is too soft to maintain it's dimensions in such an application.
Click to expand...

I used virgin Teflon because it's what I had. You're right about it being soft, and I was concerned about that...and still am, but so far, so good. It's holding up fine. Time will tell how well it lasts. Really made a nice differenc in the rest function. It's holding up beautifully in my flags after extensive testing...but that's a whole nother application.
 
zfastmalibu,

Did you use any type of lube on the bearing plate in lieu of the Teflon tape ?

TIA,
Dick
 
For lube, I use a product called Gel Lube. It's made by a company called Valco out of Cincinnati. Goodson Products sells it too. I also use it for bolt lube. The stuff is slick and has very good shear properties. Can't hardly wipe it off. Great product. It's a bit expensive, but a can will last most people several years.
 
Try some "plain jane" white grease mixed with the dried and finely ground droppings of the little known Zambesi Armadillo.
 
My tension screws are made of Acetal. Teflon or UHMW tape will not do what fast chevy said. He had another problem and hasn't found it yet. I use synthetic bicycle wheel bearing racing grease. Some of the early Farleys had square keystock between the sliding plates. They need to be replaced with polished .250 ground rod pins. Lube needs to be where the front sliding plate with tape rubs against the front housing, the 2 verticle pins, and on the tension screws. Most people tighten their tension screws too tight. The rest is only holding a rifle, not a dump truck. You may also check the adjustment of the plate on the bottom of the Farley that rides in the groove of the rear sliding plate.
 
Butch do you put Heavy Gauge Teflon tape on the back plate and sandwich it between the stationary back and moveable center.
 
Well I call it the front sliding plate as it is nearest to the target. I put the tape on the front side of the front sliding plate.
 
Has anyone replaced the bearing assembly? Mine had some slop in it between the bearing and the shaft and I put some loctite on it. I does not work very good now. Does anybody make a replacement besides Farley?

I did replace the buttons in mine a couple years ago with some of Butches and they really make it smoother.

Joe Hynes
 
The bearing in the sliding plate is just a spherical bearing. It shouldn't wear out. The shaft has to slide in the inner bearing race to work. The shaft may have a little wear. If it were me, I would see if Farley would send me a replacement shaft or make one. You will have to grind the OD as a .0003 slip fit will cause a little slop. It needs to be exact.
 
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