Duracoat color match for Rem 700 stainless??

[VaniB]

I have a Remington brushed stainless VSF or VSSF 700 BDL rifle with a fluted barrel and the standard factory Remington stainless triggerguard and magazine hinge plate. I'm going be replacing this Remington trigger guard assembly with a matt black Badger style detachable magazine assembly. I want to spray paint the black Badger assembly in a stainless color similar to the original Remington trigger guard or barrel. Is the Duracoat "titanium" a fairly good match? The guy at Duracoat wasn't really too sure and was only an expert in black tacticool colors.

The Duracoat guy ALSO told me to cover it with Duracoat clear "satin". Is this clear coat really necessary?

 

[alinwa]

Wow,

If you get something, ANYthing that doesn't look stupid please let us know!

With pixstures....

al

 

[WSnyder]

Cerakote has stainless finishes in both air cure and heat cure. I haven't used any of the stainless colors from them but maybe they have what you want. Cerakote also tends to be much more durable than Duracoat.

 

[VaniB]

Wow,

If you get something, ANYthing that doesn't look stupid please let us know!

With pixstures....

al

Ok Al....... when I've completed my 6.5 Creedmoor project about 4-6 months from now and 200 hours of labor later, I'll be sure to post the pics here so you can tell me that it looks even better then my true-oil gloss finished 22x47L rifle that you really liked.

.....remember that? Boy time sure does fly. Which reminds me .....whatever happened to that rude and hurtful guy who was only one of two people that I had ever found it necessary to block via an ignore list. Do you agree that some folks just can't seem to stop or be able to help themselves from spreading the love?

 

[VaniB]

Cerakote has stainless finishes in both air cure and heat cure. I haven't used any of the stainless colors from them but maybe they have what you want. Cerakote also tends to be much more durable than Duracoat.

While I would concede that Cerakote is a more durable product, Duracoat is still a hardy enough finish which should hold plenty good enough on a well cared fo target rifle. After using cheap oil based enamel paints like Rustoleum in my spray guns (for radio control planes), I was amazed how easy Duracoat is to work with.

 

[alinwa]

Well I've never found anything to approximate the look of stainless, I really hope you find something that works.

al

 

[WSnyder]

While I would concede that Cerakote is a more durable product, Duracoat is still a hardy enough finish which should hold plenty good enough on a well cared fo target rifle. After using cheap oil based enamel paints like Rustoleum in my spray guns (for radio control planes), I was amazed how easy Duracoat is to work with.

Not sure what you're trying to say. Are you saying Cerakote is hard to work with so you don't want to use it and Duracoat is so easy you are fixed on it? I've never sprayed Duracoat but have used a fair amount of Cerakote and find it's easy enough to use. I was just pointing out that Cerakote maybe had some options for you.

 

[alinwa]

BTW VaniB, has that sprayed on Tru-oil cracked? Several I've done too thick cracked over time, possibly because I didn't seal well enough ???

al

 

[Jay Cutright]

How does that sprayed on tru oil stand up against solvents like Copper Killer?

 

[Dans40X]

VaniB,
Once again, since you've already made up your mind & won't listen to reason/experience-
Why not bead blast the TactiKool Badger Ordnance bottom metal.
OR
Purchase a stainless steel replacement.

 

[VaniB]

Not sure what you're trying to say. Are you saying Cerakote is hard to work with so you don't want to use it and Duracoat is so easy you are fixed on it? I've never sprayed Duracoat but have used a fair amount of Cerakote and find it's easy enough to use. I was just pointing out that Cerakote maybe had some options for you.

I was saying that I was already comfortable with Duracoat having used it already, and thus don't have to go through a learning curve with it as I might have to do with Ceracoat. I was also saying that I don't hunt or subject my guns to adverse conditions requiring something more durable then Duracoat. Initially I also didn't like the fact that 4 ounces of ceracoat at $35 costs almost twice as much as Duracoat. After shipping charges it costs about $50 just to color a silly little trigger guard assembly........ which also requires culinary skills of me. (ie; Ceracoat has to be cooked too!) If I intended to paint a barrel I'd get more of my money's worth and wouldn't mind paying more. (but then a barreled action may not even fit in my oven anyway.)

HOWEVER......I will likely try Ceracoat now anyway, as I am being told now that Duracoat requires the clear satin coating over the titanium color. No savings there in having to buy titanium base color plus the clear satin coat which equals about $50 worth of Duracoat. I guess I'll learn how to use a .8 nozzle with Ceracoat, and then watch television for a couple of hours while the triggerguard is cooking in the oven.

 

[WSnyder]

The C series Cerakote (listed as High Temp Firearms Coatings) is air cure and many of the air cure have near the durability of the H series. If you look up the individual sheets on the respective colors you will find the durability test numbers. C series Cerakote is about as easy as it gets. Shake bottle well, pour out of bottle through a filter into your gun and shoot. Tack free in about half an hour, cured enough to handle in 24 and fully cured in 5 days I think. The heat cure does require adding the supplied hardener and baking it but that's pretty easy too. Yep agreed Cerakote is a bit costly. Once again I was only pointing out more options and I wasn't trying to tell you you shouldn't do what you want.

 

[VaniB]

VaniB,
Once again, since you've already made up your mind & won't listen to reason/experience-
Why not bead blast the TactiKool Badger Ordnance bottom metal.
OR
Purchase a stainless steel replacement.

Dan,
Your opening "Once again" remark was condescending and unecessary. Thousands of folks, myself included, have been satisfied with Duracoat. It has served me well on my AR15 barrels which I didn't have to bake in an oven. I wasn't coming here asking you which brand paint to choose and then challenging your input, was I? I simply opened this thread seeking info about a particular Duracoat color. I don't mind folks veering away from my Duracoat topic and mentioning the virtues of a completely different alternate option like ceracoat.... but I don't appreciate being chided because Duracoat is not your preference.

To answer WHY your alternate options aren't viable in this case;

My current 6.5 Creedmoor project entails using autobody putty to completely recontour an old Fajen wood stock that I bought on Ebay from Larry Potterfield about 4 years ago. While doing this, I've also decided to open the magazine well to fit a bottom metal and AICS DM. FYI; there are quite a lot of bottom metal manufacturers out there including Wyatts, Badger, H&S, PT&G, Surgeon and others. That I know, H&S is the only manufacturer offering it in stainless, but HS is out of favor because their magazines are proprietary. I ultimately decided to buy a PT&G flush mount bottom metal. I have already considered sand blasting the finish off to the bare aluminum, but the problem is that the release lever would then be steel in the white and susceptible to rust......thus making a the use of a paint finish or at least a clear coat necessary.

 

[VaniB]

Jay,

I don't subject my rifles to nearly the amount of time and use that you or others here might. The few times that I have had my rifle out at the range it has stood up to my standard cleaning routine. But I confess that with such minimal use, I probably haven't put the rifle finish to the test with spills and excess contact.

Al,

You're probably right that a thick glossy layer of true-oil is not a preferred finish for duability. And if I subjected the rifle to the atmosphere and temperature extremes of an often used rifle, cracks or other problems just might show up. (?) At the time when I applied the finish, I was not familiar with epoxy paints like Duracoat clear-coat..... which would be a much better choice today.

As for the color match with stainless; Even the Remington rifle factory triggerguard and factory bottom metals components don't look anything like the color of the stainless barrel. But they are close enough, and probably most ceracoat or duracoat "titanium", "stainless", "gunmetal" paints will look good enough.......or certainly better then that of my matt black Badger/PT&G bottom metal.

WSnyder,

I've studied the ceracoat websight, and it seems the oven dried paints are the way to go. There are more choices of stainless colors to choose from, and the sheen of the finish (satin, gloss, flat) can be easilly produced via the mix ration of hardener to finish. (without having to apply an additional satin clear coat) If sandblasting the Badger assembly and then covering it only with Duracoat Satin Clear is not an option, then I will go with Cercoat. Once I sand blast the assembly to the raw metal, I'll see if it looks nice and needs only a satin clear coat. (because of sand blasted steel release lever, it will need at least clear coat over it) If the natural aluminum finish looks bad then I'll choose ceracote base color to paint the whole thing. As mentioned to you before; If I have to use Dura coat base color and then a clear coat on top too (as specified by Duracoat), I might just as well just use one superior ceracote base color, cook it, and be done for the same $50 cost. I'm not sure I want to use ceracoat for all my projects in the future. It's a fussier process that requires oven drying. But, the Badger is small enough and simple enough a part to maneuver and work with. Thanks for your input.