Drill Bit Sharpening

G

Gene Beggs

Active member
Guys with the expertise we have here on BR Central, I'm sure someone can advise me on this. :)

I have always been keenly interested in sharpening knives, cutters, twist drills etc. Recently, I have been studying twist drills and drill sharpening equipment. Wow, what a plethora of info there is on the subject. There must be hundreds of different types of sharpening devices; some complete junk while others are very expensive and precisely made.

Some have asked, "Why would you want to sharpen drill bits when new ones are so inexpensive?" :rolleyes:

Yes, new drill bits are not that expensive but I just like the idea of being able to sharpen an old one as good as new. There are also different types of drill points that are better suited for a specific job than the old standard chisel-point.

About forty years ago, an old German aircraft mechanic showed me how to free-hand drill bits but I never mastered the technique. At times I could improve things and get the job done, but never to my satisfaction. Seems I always got the angles wrong, wound up with one cutting lip longer than the other or something. :eek:

A couple of years ago, I bought a Drill Doctor and played with that a while but wasn't happy with the results; I wound up throwing it away. :mad:

Does anyone know of a good sharpening machine that wouldn't break the bank or should I just forget it and concentrate on more important business?

In studying the internet one machine, the Mini Mulit, made by Kaindl in Germany looks interesting. Has anyone had any experience with it? I'm sure most of the Kaindl grinders would be out of my price range but this one looks like something I could afford. What are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Gene Beggs
 
Gene, Sears has a pretty nice little drill sharpener in their profesional too section. It is every bit as good as the ones you buy at the actual tool houses. Probably made by the same people. It will sharpen up to 1/2 inch, (I think).

Anything under 1 inch, I sharpen by hand. It is an art in doing it, but as you can amagine, I have been doing it for years. Anything over that, Iuse our tool grinder, which we made a fixture to sharpen large drills on.

The most important item in hand sharpening is keeping the point 90 degrees with the centerline of the flutes. You also have to develop a technique for rotating the drill as you sweep it across the grinding rock so you establish the correct back clearance for the entire back side of the flutes. And, most of all, (once you get the clearance correct so the thing will actually cut), is keeping the point dead on center, and the angled cutting edge on each flute the same.

I can show some one how to do it, but explaining it on the Forum is a little difficult. The easiest way to check to see if everything is correct is chuck a piece up in your lathe, and put the drill in the tailstock. By gently touching it off and allowing it to cut a little, you can see if one edge is cutting, and one is not, and if the point is indeed in the middle. The most important thing about the point being in the middle is the drill will cut oversize if it is not. By carefullobservation, you can touch up the high side untill the drill cuts on both flutes, and drills the correct size hole.

A good tip is if you try to sharpen drills smaller than 1/8 inch, get you a set of those magnifying goggles that jewelers wear. It makes a big difference when you can actually see what you are doing........jackie

That old thing about just throwing drills away instead of sharpenning might be good for small drills,but trust me, anything over 1/2 inch, we sharpen.........jackie
 
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I have used a Darex M5 for many years. They are no longer manufactured by Darex, but they show up on eBay regularly. M5 parts are still available from Darex. They usually got for 500-600$ depending on condition Three chucks are available 1/16 -1/2, 1/2-3/4, 3/4 -1-1/8. You can sharpen a dull drill in less than a minute and the lips will be exactly the same length. The clearance angle and point angle are easily adjustable. The right side wheel has a point splitting and web thinning fixture. The beautiful thing about the machine is that you can see what is going on at all times. The current crop of Darex machines are all enclosed and the grinding action is concealed until you remove the chuck from the machine. That said, Darex is probably the leading maker of drill sharpeners and have machines that sell for $1500 to $33,000. The M series is extremely popular with the hobby machinist fraternity since it went obsolete. The new price for M5 back when it was current was about $1000.

RWO
 
Don't give up.

Gene Beggs said:
Guys with the expertise we have here on BR Central, I'm sure someone can advise me on this. :)

I have always been keenly interested in sharpening knives, cutters, twist drills etc. Recently, I have been studying twist drills and drill sharpening equipment. Wow, what a plethora of info there is on the subject. There must be hundreds of different types of sharpening devices; some complete junk while others are very expensive and precisely made.

Some have asked, "Why would you want to sharpen drill bits when new ones are so inexpensive?" :rolleyes:

Yes, new drill bits are not that expensive but I just like the idea of being able to sharpen an old one as good as new. There are also different types of drill points that are better suited for a specific job than the old standard chisel-point.

About forty years ago, an old German aircraft mechanic showed me how to free-hand drill bits but I never mastered the technique. At times I could improve things and get the job done, but never to my satisfaction. Seems I always got the angles wrong, wound up with one cutting lip longer than the other or something. :eek:

A couple of years ago, I bought a Drill Doctor and played with that a while but wasn't happy with the results; I wound up throwing it away. :mad:

Does anyone know of a good sharpening machine that wouldn't break the bank or should I just forget it and concentrate on more important business?

In studying the internet one machine, the Mini Mulit, made by Kaindl in Germany looks interesting. Has anyone had any experience with it? I'm sure most of the Kaindl grinders would be out of my price range but this one looks like something I could afford. What are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Gene Beggs
Click to expand...

keep on doing it by hand and save a pant load. practice makes purfect.
 
I ran a tool and cutter grinder when I was in the shop. I think the main thing is knowing what a drill is doing. I touch them up freehand , but if it is bad, I use the Drill Doctor. I will never sharpen enough drills to justify anything else. Yes, it takes a while to get used to it.
Butch
 
Thanks Guys

Guys, I sure appreciate your help. Jackie, thanks for taking the time to describe how you sharpen drills. :)

After much consideration and finally coming to my senses, I have decided it is best for me to just buy new bits when needed. I'm getting old and lazy and would never sharpen enough bits in my lifetime to justify an expensive machine so I guess I'll just leave it to the professionals. :eek: But I'm still going to continue practicing grinding by hand just for the fun and satisfaction of it. There's just something very satisfying about being able to put a keen edge on a cutter of any kind. Know what I mean, Vern? :D

Later

Gene Beggs
 
know what'cha' mean Vern.... we've all got a wider than normal streak of self reliance here.

al
 
Gene Beggs said:
Know what I mean, Vern? :D

Later

Gene Beggs
Click to expand...

Hey Vern, If I come to KC for the NBRSA I'll bring you one of these and just give it to you since I like you.
I still haven't decided if I want to drive 800 miles and not be guaranteed a electrical hookup. All they have to do is count to 48 on who sends the money in first!!!

We are leaving Thursday for the IBS at Weikert. Come up there and I will bring it. That sucker weighs about 40-50 pounds!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Service-R-D-Dri...D-Grinder-/160462273051?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
 
JerrySharrett said:
Hey Vern, If I come to KC for the NBRSA I'll bring you one of these and just give it to you since I like you.
I still haven't decided if I want to drive 800 miles and not be guaranteed a electrical hookup. All they have to do is count to 48 on who sends the money in first!!!

We are leaving Thursday for the IBS at Weikert. Come up there and I will bring it. That sucker weighs about 40-50 pounds!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Service-R-D-Dri...D-Grinder-/160462273051?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
Click to expand...



Hey Jerry

That sounds like a heck of a deal! :D I will be at Kansas City but can't make it to Weikert. Hope to see you in KC.

Best regards

Gene Beggs
 
Gene Beggs said:
Guys with the expertise we have here on BR Central, I'm sure someone can advise me on this. :)

I have always been keenly interested in sharpening knives, cutters, twist drills etc. Recently, I have been studying twist drills and drill sharpening equipment. Wow, what a plethora of info there is on the subject. There must be hundreds of different types of sharpening devices; some complete junk while others are very expensive and precisely made.

Some have asked, "Why would you want to sharpen drill bits when new ones are so inexpensive?" :rolleyes:

Yes, new drill bits are not that expensive but I just like the idea of being able to sharpen an old one as good as new. There are also different types of drill points that are better suited for a specific job than the old standard chisel-point.

About forty years ago, an old German aircraft mechanic showed me how to free-hand drill bits but I never mastered the technique. At times I could improve things and get the job done, but never to my satisfaction. Seems I always got the angles wrong, wound up with one cutting lip longer than the other or something. :eek:

A couple of years ago, I bought a Drill Doctor and played with that a while but wasn't happy with the results; I wound up throwing it away. :mad:

Does anyone know of a good sharpening machine that wouldn't break the bank or should I just forget it and concentrate on more important business?

In studying the internet one machine, the Mini Mulit, made by Kaindl in Germany looks interesting. Has anyone had any experience with it? I'm sure most of the Kaindl grinders would be out of my price range but this one looks like something I could afford. What are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Gene Beggs
Click to expand...

Winslow would be a good start. But there's even more to sharpening drill bits than owning a good Winslow grinder. There's several types of grinds being used these days, and some of the cannot be resharpened on a conventional cutter grinding machine. Big stuff will also have to have the lands at the point thined from time to time.
gary
 
misticmetalmoverfluid_300.jpg

I have been hand sharpening twist drills for 57 years, and my resharpened drills work great on wood, but terrible on steel.
I have seen dull drills that will not cut steel, that will cut with some Mistic Metal Mover.
 
FBecigneul said:
I bought a Drill Doctor II by Darex a few years ago and was not all that pleased with what I was able to do with it. It sat on the shelf for a long time. Paul bought a house, equipped a tool room in the garage, and settled in. A short time later I gave the Drill Doctor II by Darex to Paul who handed it to his son Eric. A short time later Eric had all of Paul's and my drill bits slick and sharp. The moral of my story is; Let a teenager read the directions and assign him a project."
Click to expand...



Francis, you're sure right there! :eek: Same thing applies to computers and other high tech devices. I think I was born fifty years to late. ;)

Gene Beggs
 
Good Afternoon All, I am the Marketing Director for Darex, we make both our industrial machines under the Darex brand as well as the Drill Doctor at the consumer level. I am glad to see that some of you are already familiar with our tools. For those of you who arent, we have been in business making tool sharpeners for more than 35 years so far. We have a machine to fit any budget from $49 all the way up to $33,000! check out the websites for our products at

www.darex.com
www.drilldoctor.com

You can watch videos about the products and learn a bit about our company. If you have any questions about drill sharpening, we are happy to help. Just give use a call

1-800-597-6170

Thanks much, and happy sharpening!

Matthew
 
Thanks Matthew,
I found when I took the time to read the instructions the Drill Doctor worked great. It did help that I did a lot of tool grinding years ago in the shop. Found out real quick that cutters cut pretty shi$$y on the heal.
Butch
 
Sharp Tools said:
Good Afternoon All, I am the Marketing Director for Darex, we make both our industrial machines under the Darex brand as well as the Drill Doctor at the consumer level. I am glad to see that some of you are already familiar with our tools. For those of you who aren't, we have been in business making tool sharpeners for more than 35 years so far. We have a machine to fit any budget from $49 all the way up to $33,000! check out the websites for our products at

www.darex.com
www.drilldoctor.com

You can watch videos about the products and learn a bit about our company. If you have any questions about drill sharpening, we are happy to help. Just give use a call

1-800-597-6170

Thanks much, and happy sharpening!

Matthew
Click to expand...

Wow, your web sites are impressive, especially the one for DrillDoctor.
Internet marketing is really underway. Amazing!!

When I retired in 1997, Jim Barksdale, then CEO of Netscape, and I had long email discussions about Internet marketing. It wasn't even on our radar that it would advance to this.
 
I bought a Drill Doctor years ago and set about sharpening my drill bits. I never did get the hang of free-handing them with any degree of success. It took a bit of time to learn to use the Drill Doctor but I finally did learn . The only problem I had, which I never was able to figure out was sharpening the small drills. I always ended up with a very flat cutting surface and could not seem to work around it. I just ground the area behind their tips and they seemed to work but looked ugly.
 
This thread reminded me of my happenstance with a Drill Doctor...

I purchased one many years ago that was displayed as an end-cap in a Home Depot or like store. The box made it all look rather simple and so it went into my basket. I pulled it out of the box and tried a couple of bits and didn't think much of it (I didn't read the directions either).

Recently I was searching through YouTube and bumped into a video on the operation of a Drill Doctor and said, "Cool! I didn't know THAT is how one is to set it up." I ran into the shop and yanked it out of the dusty box, plugged it in and followed the instructions JUST THIS TIME and I was astounded at the performance.

Reading the manufacture's instructions can be a fascinating experience...

Wally
 
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