Does this gunsmith know something that the rest of us do not?

Okay... coming from the 'just a bit past snug' camp myself... how much difference in accuracy have you guys seen between 'hand tight' and 'wrenched down'? Are we talking difference between nearly zero groups and say, 'just' sub 0.2, or between sub 0.2 and 0.4-0.5... any difference on long range guns i.e. do they wrench the barrels down tight as well, or not?

Thanks,

Monte

Monte,

I think I can give you a meaningful answer on this..... a BTDT answer.

A LONG answer :D

A Storie.... anyone in a hurry or easily bored, please move on, life's too short.

Ye Accounte Le' Loose, a saga of Hand Tightened Barrels....

It's The Year Of Our Lord Nineteen Hunnerd and Ninety Three and Ol' Alinwa is waiting for his first Pro-Built True-Blue Bench Rest Rifle. Now here it must be noted that the aforementioned Alinwa already considers hisself to be a serious Factory Action Riflemeister..... He's got groups on his wall and groups in his wallet. He's got STACKS of groups and copious notes. He's already got 3 "6PPC USA's" and several SERIOUS Varmint Rifles with SS barrels handcrafted by famous barrel-makers which will "shoot in the two's when he does his part...." he shoots Columbia Ground Squirrels too far out to be resolved by the naked eye... He's also a fan of Parker O Ackley, trained and schooled in the Brownell's School of Gunbuilding........He WAS a Charter Member of the Pine Technical Institute School Of Gunsmithing and IS an astute student of Ye Accuracy Grail, and he HAS worked as a gunsmith in several Sporting Goods Stores.....

And he is on An Holy Quest, The Quest to prove that the PPC is just another cartridge, that ANY rifle can be made to shoot like a BR rifle and ANY chambering will shoot.....provided it's built to "BR Standard" from BR components and reloading is accomplished by BR methods.....

He's got a bunch of really accurate stuff, and those BR guys are a bunch of stuffed shirts anyways..... ( not really, remember this is a story... :) )

But in the meantime he needs a "Benchmark" against which to stack his stuff because there are just so many variables! PLUS, to really prove the point there must be a PPC to prove AGAINST.....to compare TO....


Soooo, The Benchrest Platform finally arrives, the wait has been interminable. It's got three barrels. A .243AI, a 22BR and of course the PPC barrel. It's got a powerful 36X optical unit from Leupold undt Stevens and it's hand assembled by Art Cocchia of Time Precision Rifles. A Multi-Purpose Benchrest Testing and Comparing Platform par excellence.

Let The Testing begin:

FIRST of all, the .243AI. This is a "known quantity", a proven round which has given Ol Alwina a lot of pleasure. And the barrel tenon is LONG and the fit is TIGHT and doesn't even WIGGLE! Tightening it in by hand it just goes t'CHUNK like a vault door....And it SHOOTS!! OHHhhh Yeahhh, It SHOOTS!! Halleluiahhhh!!! The platform is sound!

He spends several weeks wringing out the .243AI, GLORIOUS weeks......more stacks of targets.... "BEAT THESE!!!"..... little ripped out KNOTS for groups, turtles and ducks and rabbits built of 5 bullets ALL IN THE SAME HOLE!!! AGGREGATES of groups which rivaled the wall-N-wallets.......

But finally it's time to test a "Bench Rest Round"......not the PPC yet, but the 22BR. If it'll shoot as well as a custom 22-250 (Although 'WAYYY slower of course.. :rolleyes: ) then whoopeeee....

Wipe on the grease and k'CHUNK.....the new barrel is on. (hand tight)

And the rounds are loaded.... just so.

And the bags are set up....

And the windflags are out even though it's a Frabjous Day with no real wind....

First shot on paper, only 3" away.. !!! wow!

Second shot.... ????

SECOND shot???

hmmmm

Third shot....and the hole TWITCHed...

holy cow.

!

kRACK #4 and k'RACK #5 ....... And there sets the TINIEST 5-hole Ol' Alinwa has EVER seen!!!

It was a stunning moment for Mr inwa.... a revelation, a 'piphany.

He had "done his part!" And there WAS Joy in Mudville indeed. Alinwa had NOT struck out! The birdies chirped the sweeter, the clouds parted and sent a special ray of sunshine JUST for heem......and in the next several weeks his whole carefully structured WORLD fell apart! GONE were the wallet-N-wall groups. GONE were the stacks of targets and notes..... relegated to the dustbin of history because THIS rifle simply ECLIPSED anything previous. A "flier" at 100yds was now a ripped bump on a hole.... And the wind became a visible, readable FORCE which would repeatably send bullets this way and that...... but the GUN was like a loong Magic Marking pen which made dots on a target. And FINALLY, "tuning" seemed a workable goal! FINALLY it could be seen that "vertical" was not random 2 O-Clock fliers but VERTICAL!

And the PPC barrel was just as good.

EVERYTHING else on the rack became boring, two more barrels came. One of them a shortened 308 for use as a HBR round. Another 6PPC..... And everything was changed.

In the next 5 yrs the testing platform became a huge 7-barrel guncase with a notebook and a collimator.... Squirrel Safari's were tremendous affairs where one could heat up a barrel and just SWITCH IT in the field and make first-round hits at 350yds..... Amazing stuff.

A couple years of this and Yours Truly was feeling ready for some competitions.... there was BR available quite close down the road.

Time to get SERIOUS with the practice..........

"Tuning".........

Mysterious and not really well explained yet by the BR Community, commonest method being to "go up a couple cliks when you get vertical"......

Well HOW FAR up can you go??

So it's off to the phones and forum and books for information on how to get the rifle tuned to ONE ROUND HOLE.........

And those mysterious two-groups!!! 3-and-2, 2-and-3, 4-n-1....... Still TEENY holes at 100yds...... a whole new WORLD from the old days of half-inch holes in the paper but DIFFERENT because the sets of bullets would be ONE HOLE next to ONE HOLE.... It was obvious that the rifle wanted to shoot one TINY hole......

hence the Scope Checker mentioned earlier......

And the advice (which I'd herad before but ignored, typical :eek: )

To end my "accounte" and bring us into the present let it be said that it was a REAL EYE OPENER when I took the time to crank those barrels down! NOW the real work started! NOW the gun would SHOOT! The gun would TUNE!!! All that was left was me. I ordered up another PPC, this one a HV from Borden.. I went to the IBS BR school and watched the pro's...

HOLY @#$%%^&!!!!

I gotta' do THAT!! in THIS WIND???

So YES Monte, I'll go along with your "rating"...... a gun can still shoot one-hole in the .2's or .3's which means it's still shooting UNBELIEVABLY WELL compared to the rest of the world BUT.............. it'll never even PLACE in a Bench Rest competition!

and another thing, I believe that short tenon guns like the Rem700 will move around more than a long-tenon custom but the custom WILL STILL MOVE AROUND. Just enough to drive you batty and a loose barrel WILL NOT tune. It'll hit something as huge as a ground squirrel even at 300yds.....which is the effective distance for the little BR style bullets anyway. But what does this prove?

And YES the long range Bench Rest rifles NEED TO BE TIGHT. They move worse. For many of the long range disciplines you could be fooled for a long time with a loose barrel. The problem is that many long range comp's are styled around 1moa rifles and a nicely built BR rifle will stay well under a half-inch EVEN WITH A LOOSE BARREL! Now out on the sniper range or the squirrel patch or when teetering on your hindfeet you CAN'T SEE IT. But try 1/2 moa at a 100-200BR Match and see yourself not even placing. Try a quarter moa rifle and you'll not even place unless you're lucky in the wind. The Bench Rest GROUPS might well be 1/4 moa or even 1/2 moa on a windy day but by then your half-inch rifle is shooting over an inch. You're STILL out of the running.


Take it from one who's burnt up barrels shooting loose..... thousands of rounds through probably a dozen barrels...... A LOOSE BARREL CAN'T COMPETE!


There, now I said it...... finally :D:D:D

And furthermore, THE PRO'S ARE RIGHT!!!

About just about EVERYTHING!! The informed opinion of ONE winning Bench Rest Shooter perty much trumps all the speculation and varmint shooting opinions, non-competitor opinions.

I will still fiddle around in the varmint patch switching barrels and having fun with the family just as long as the shots are under 400yds...... but for ANYTHING requiring real accuracy, the barrel must be tight.

I once bet a guy shooting a factory 22-250 that I could switch barrels between shots and STILL smoke him at 100yds.... and I DID, with a 1/2" group. In this case though I did cheat a little. I used a barrel vise and an index mark and about 50ftlb of torque......

It's more fun now though to tune the gun up right and bet that I can beat him WITHOUT LOOKING THROUGH THE SCOPE!!

Easier too.


anyway.... to all who got through this...



WAKE UP!!!! :D Look around, Streeetch the arms out and shake the cramp out of your neck and heave a sigh of relief that you don't live in Al's World eh!


:D


wheewwww....


LOL


al
 
Al...

I have to give credit where credit is due.

That was one of your more entertaining little yarns that I can recall reading.

And it even answered the question! :D

That tells me pretty much what I need... guess I'll be tightening the barrels I use for 'competition' down a bit more snugly from here on. I'll have to cogitate a bit on whether it out weighs the convenience factor of easy barrel changing (i.e. without the grunt factor) for things like live varmint shooting.

Couple questions for ya though... I take it from other discussions you don't have a lot (any) of rounds through a Savage barrel-nut setup, but can you (or anyone else) think of any good reason why it would be different in this regard? I'm not really expecting it to, but mostly just curious.

Second... not to disagree with you (who, me?) but a few *very* good Prone shooters from your side of Washington have (had) a pretty well known Benchrest type do the metal work on their babies. Took the wood stocks to the acknowledged expert in that department also, but figured a real BR gunsmith was the ticket for perfection for the action/barrel work. From their accounts... they had a wee problem with barrels coming loose because he only put them on hand tight, as was his norm. I don't know the particulars of his competition record, but I don't think he's someone commonly considered a 'hack', either.

Take care,

Monte
 
Monte,

You can email me the name if you'd like.... I know pretty much every known name BR rifle builder on the leftern or any other coast...... and I can assure you that ZERO winning Bench Rest rifle builders advocate hand tightening only. ZERO, zip nada.

Somewhere there's been a miscommunication like maybe the 'smith knew the stocker??? and made some assumptions???

There was a time when I was so convinced about hand tightening that I would most certainly have gone to a match with a hand tightened barrel. I used to post about it on BRC in the 90's...... and real shooters warned against it. I shot some amazing groups in my yard. Some barrels would go DAYS without moving, seriously. I had a whole regimen set up....


I was once bragging to Jim Borden about this..... planning for my next rifle. ((This was before I'd ordered one of his rifles.)) And he flat out asked me, "you're not planning on shooting one of my rifles this way are you?"


But luckily I learned differently.


As usual, I had to LEARN it :eek:

LOL


Now, on the Savage barrel nut system. I'm a total believer as far as Factory/Hybrid stuff goes. I keep a wrench handy and re-set Savage headspaces as a first go-to upgrade.....I just did my son's ought-six last week. And I do have two Savage "platforms" setting in the safe as well as a drawn up system for another custom action that I own. And I DID finally run in my lathe in the last few weeks..... and I DID just get in a big shipment of tooling just yesterday..... so I will be playing with it sometime.

MEANwhile, the experts, the pro's, the guys who do this every day are saying "WHY introduce another joint to the system???"


And they're RIGHT.

But I'll still play with it, mainly for setting up long-range varmint rifles.... field expediency. I have no clue what to expect for accuracy. I do know that I WILL NOT be exploring this method of fastening Bench Rest barrels on..... I KNOW how important the squared up action and shoulder interface is. There's really nothing in the Savage system to counter the barrel rocking in the threads.


I can say this though, Savage (and Remington for that matter) have set my factory expectations on end of late. I've seen 6 TRULY exciting factory rifles come through the shop, stuff capable of well under moa with factory barrels and some minor free-floating work. I watched as a factory Savage 300WSM grouped 5/8" with a guys fireform loads....... I measured the groups with a caliper.

And two Remingtons in the new XCR configuration.... The stocks are pure crap but with a Hogue FL AL bedding block replacement and some steelbed..... hooo boy....GREAT factory bores...

al
 
Al............Fantastic! Thanks for that little bit of levity!

I just pulled out my much used copy of Harold Vaughn's book "Rifle Accuracy Facts" and re-read chapter 6, "Barrel-Receiver Threaded Joint Motion"

This is a must read when discussions of barrel tightness surface. Amazing information contained within...........

BTW......Anyone actually ever cut "Spiralock Ramp Threads" on a barrel and a receiver to test?
 
I just pulled out my much used copy of Harold Vaughn's book "Rifle Accuracy Facts" and re-read chapter 6, "Barrel-Receiver Threaded Joint Motion"

This is a must read when discussions of barrel tightness surface. Amazing information contained within...........


I just ordered Vaughn's book. I can hardly wait to read it.

Fitch
 
Hey Greg,


BTW, do you still have those Electron Microscope pix of crown damage etc from bronze brushes?

I've got paper copies but if you ever find time to post them again I'd like to print them out on photo paper for my reloading room wall.......

Thanks for taking the time

al

Hey Al,

Now there is a blast from the past! I still have those pictures....someplace, stored on a Zip-Disk (remember those?)

Unfortunately, I misplaced it among my mountains of junk. I also had them transferred to a CD, but it is inaccessible due to errors or other factors that won't let me read the CD.

If I ever find the Zip-Disk, I'll send photos. I also took additional scans of samples sent to me by other gunsmiths that contribute to this forum that I never posted. There were lots of interesting features to report.

Greg Walley
Kelbly's Inc.
 
Al............Fantastic! Thanks for that little bit of levity!

I just pulled out my much used copy of Harold Vaughn's book "Rifle Accuracy Facts" and re-read chapter 6, "Barrel-Receiver Threaded Joint Motion"

This is a must read when discussions of barrel tightness surface. Amazing information contained within...........

BTW......Anyone actually ever cut "Spiralock Ramp Threads" on a barrel and a receiver to test?

Yeahh Roy, it's been tried quite a bit. It's been a failure. The best way tested is to rely on a perfect interface at the action face to shoulder joint. FLAT (90 degrees) and well lubricated..... and enough torque!

Another way to change the thread-loading curve is to cut the receiver with a small amount of outward taper, coned such that it's slightly wider/larger at the receiver face. Cutting tapered threads forces the deepest threads to grab first. Cutting a taper thus does not have a negative effect on the ability of the barrel to find a solid center.

Spiralock threads and coned threads are a recipe for galling on repeated SS to SS installs. Both methods work well for a one-time use threaded joint but not so well for repeated usage.

Some folks here were toying with the idea of trying again using a CM action and SS barrel but I've not heard results.

al
 
In Harold's book he discusses a simple slip fit barrel connection with a threaded col let to hold the barrel tight against the receiver. In this case, the barrel is not threaded at all. Interesting.

I've long thought about doing away with the recoil lug on a Remington 700 and coning the receiver face and the barrel to better center the connection. I'm currently rebuilding my "Tube Gun" in 6X47 Lapua. This rifle will not need a recoil lug. I just might try this out with a 60 degree cove.

MAK001-vi.jpg
 
In Harold's book he discusses a simple slip fit barrel connection with a threaded col let to hold the barrel tight against the receiver. In this case, the barrel is not threaded at all. Interesting.

Except for changing barrels, a threadless .0015" shrink fit would be about as rigid as one could get. Heat the receiver to about 350, freeze the barrel, slide them quickly and completely together (there are no "do-overs"), don't move for about 1 second and it's together about forever. About the same as making the barrel and receiver out of one piece of metal. Gotta get the headspace right the first time, no trial fits allowed. :eek:

I've long thought about doing away with the recoil lug on a Remington 700 and coning the receiver face and the barrel to better center the connection.

I didn't follow that. Do you have a link to a place there is a picture of what you are talking about? I don't understand what would counter the recoil forces with the lugs gone.

Thanks
Fitch
 
The only way to achieve consistent thread loading is to hydraulically stretch the thread, and bring the nut tight by hand, and release the pressure. this is very common on large machines. This would be difficult to achieve with a bbl configuration, but not impossible. No need to re-invent the wheel though.
 
I've long thought about doing away with the recoil lug on a Remington 700 and coning the receiver face and the barrel to better center the connection.
Strikes me as the wrong thing to do. One "force" centering the barrel in the action is the thread. If you have another force trying to center the barrel (coned shoulders), the two darn sure better be in absolute agreement.

Harder to machine that. You could do the barrel thread & shoulder in one setup, & I suppose re-thread & cone the action in one setup, but each better be dialed in darn near perfect. Strikes me as a solution looking for a problem.

I could be wrong, though. There was an action (Gilkes?) that used 45-degree mating surfaces, but as I remember, the barrel didn't mate at at the front of action, rather, at the back of the barrel. Not convinced this resulted in anything better, but as a downside, getting the headspace right involved different measuring tools.
 
The only way to achieve consistent thread loading is to hydraulically stretch the thread, and bring the nut tight by hand, and release the pressure. this is very common on large machines. This would be difficult to achieve with a bbl configuration, but not impossible. No need to re-invent the wheel though.
Hydraulic loading (HL) of threaded joints is done primarily for two reasons;

1) where multiple tensioners are involved, as in gasketed flanges where there are multiple studs-HL is used to bring all the studs under the same load at the same time thereby keeping the gasket material from being "squished" out to one side.

2) another main purpose for HL is to eliminate galling. Since the threads are not under a radial load while the axial load is being applied, the thread surfaces are spared being galled.

http://www.htico.com/hydraulic_tensioners_faq.htm

Come on folks, tightening a barrel in a benchrest action ain't rocket science, just common sense!! We have enough crap to haul to a match as it is.
 
Fitch, a tubegun with a glued-in action doesn't need a recoil lug because the action and the sleeve become a single unit and the buttstock is merely hung from that unit. Since there's no separate "stock" there's no reason for a recoil lug to keep the receiver in place against the stock. See my article here: http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek091.html for some pictures that might clarify this a bit more.

Got it! Thanks.

Fitch
 
I always use a vise but the tubes Speedy has done for me lock up tight by hand and even when put in the vise have almost imperceptible movement when tightened.
 
I always use a vise but the tubes Speedy has done for me lock up tight by hand and even when put in the vise have almost imperceptible movement when tightened.

Agreed Boss, a barrel installed by a pro barely moves at all. BUT it still needs to be tight! I used to lightly lap the threads on several of my rifles so that they would REALLY tighten/center up when hand-tightened. I stopped that to keep from wearing out actions and when I found that to counter the unloading force presented by the 50-70,000psi firing event REQUIRES loading. Picture this.....your barrel is hand-tightened with a nice clean snap. Now you remove the bolt, stick a chamfered steel rod through the action and into the chamber to bear against the shoulder. now put just the tiniest bit of torque on the barrel, either to screw it in or out and RAP the back of the rod with 50,000psi! Do you think it'll move???

This is why barrels "shoot tight" over time. I've had hand-tightened barrels get so tight that it took a strap wrench to get them popped back loose.

al
 
A couple of hundred foot pounds are not going to fatigue them.

I've taken Remington 700's apart that required over 500 ft/lb to break the joint. (A 500 ft/lb impact wrench would not break the joint and we had to go to a 900 ft/lb monster). Granted Remington puts some glue-crap on them to really make things difficult but when twisting a 700 action body takes place and the joint is still intact, I don't worry about a couple of hundred foot pounds doing damage.
.

"glue-crap"?
Is that what that stuff is?
It does look like it's made from bird droppings.
 
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