Having a straight barrel does not mean it will shoot with benchrest Accuracy! I have seen straighter ones not group well and crooked ones Hammer! Never know what you have til you test it on target. Ive seen barrels that people was sending back to the manufacturer and they turn out to be the best barrel they ever owned.
Dave Coots
64 Chevy 409 10.42 129
"Ain't but one way to tell if a barrel shoots." Quote of Tony Boyer.
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Along the same line of thinking. A few years back, and after the shooting season for this barrel. I took probably one of the most curved barrels I ever chambered, cut it in two at the mid-point of curve and it measures 0.013" TOTAL difference from the low side to the high side. Proving most observed curves are not all that bad. This barrel had shot great, BTW.
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Yuuup.
And then you have to chamber it as perfectly as you can.
And make ammunition that is uniform as you can.
And the longer the range, and smaller the target, the harder hitting it gets.
Luckily a groundhog in a good scope is a decent size target.
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jackie schmidt
New member
How's this........."any deviation from straightness that is still within manufacturing tolerances will have no affect on a barrel's accuracy potential".
OOHHH, now you got me going but I think that should be "effect", or should it be ..will NOT affect a barrel's....
Someone help me here
I still think it is more of an indication of a more uniform steel than anything else.
Barrel drilling is a relatively slow process.
A cutting edge at the very end of a bit is pushed through while being lubricated and either the barrel or bit rotated.
Both methods have been tried with about equal results as far as anything I have seen in writing.
IDK how much staightness effects accuracy but it does effect the way I chamber them. The really crooked ones get chambered with the Gritters method and the straight one's get the old school BR method, both methods produce barrels that shoot to their potential. Potential is what's discovered shooting it.
pablo
How do you determine what method to try first when not knowing the straightness of the said barrel? I would think, you would have to automatically assume the barrel isnt going to be straight? I always use the gritters method. Ive tried to rap my mind around why one would indicate at a point 20 plus inches away from the actual work. I just dont see it. some say the guns recoil better when the muzzle is in front of the chamber, but i haven't been able to feel a few thou misalignment in recoil myself, so i cant understand that either. I think the Gordy idea works so well because none of these barrels are straight. Some are better than other but none straight. Not to start another debate. LOL Lee
How do you determine what method to try first when not knowing the straightness of the said barrel? I would think, you would have to automatically assume the barrel isnt going to be straight? I always use the gritters method. Ive tried to rap my mind around why one would indicate at a point 20 plus inches away from the actual work. I just dont see it. some say the guns recoil better when the muzzle is in front of the chamber, but i haven't been able to feel a few thou misalignment in recoil myself, so i cant understand that either. I think the Gordy idea works so well because none of these barrels are straight. Some are better than other but none straight. Not to start another debate. LOL Lee
Mike Bryant
Active member
I'll give you a reason. When it's chambered with the barrel indicated at the muzzle and at the projected throat of the barrel and you change barrels to another barrel chambered indicated in the same way, more than likely point of impact from barrel to barrel to barrel will be within a few inches from one barrel to the next. When you start moving the muzzle end around to indicate in two points at the breech end of the barrel, there's no telling where the bullet is going to hit on target when you change from one barrel to another. Is this a problem? Not necessarily. But, match shooters do change barrels quite often when going from 100 to 200 yards when what they shot at 100 didn't work. I'd rather have a barrel indicated at the muzzle and at the throat, than one indicated by moving the muzzle end around. And yes, I have shot multiple barrels chambered both ways. I just don't see it makes a difference in how the barrels actually shoot which way is used to indicate the barrel in, but I do see it does make a difference in where that barrel's point of impact on target from one barrel to the next. That's my take on it and as in just about anything involved in chambering barrels, opinions vary. And that's all they are opinions. Very hard to prove by facts.
Great explanation Mike. I am an Fclass guy never thought of bringing an extra barrel. Maybe that's what I'm doing wrong!! I just started doing my own. Gordy way. I will start keeping track if clocking the barrel the same might lead to close POI from one to the other.
coyotechet
Chet
AS Skeetlee says ( I always use the gritters method.) But then I also indicate the muzzle end (Crown) the same way indicating the last two inches of the muzzle in using the Grizzly rod then cut the crown square to the bore.
The new barrel when done this way Most often is less the 2 inches of point of impact.
Chet
The new barrel when done this way Most often is less the 2 inches of point of impact.
Chet
When I chamber I mount the barrel in the headstock between two spiders, pick out a Deltronic pin that fits the bore at the muzzle snug and one at the breech snug, then dial in on the pin at the muzzle and the breech. After adjusting the runout down to a thou or two I stop, pull out pin in the breech end and based on the pin size in the breech end I pick a bushing. After installing the bushing on the Grizzly rod I make sure it is snug in the bore and that it will push in the bore, from the breech end, four inches or so. I then take off the screw that retains the bushing on the rod and push it up in the bore to the throat area, pull the rod out and leave the bushing in the bore. I then indicate off of the id of the bushing with an Interapid long indicator and adjust down to about 2 tenths or less and chase it with the muzzle to get it down to less than a thou. I then push the bushing out with a cleaning rod and reinstall it on the grizzly rod and secure it with the screw. I then indicate the bore in front of the throat, if it will go in for an inch or so and not indicate out more than a thou or so I leave it alone and chamber it. If the inch in front of the throat heads toward the south forty I finish with the Gritters method and move on, I also mark the barrel so I know it isn't likely to shoot close like the straight ones will. No big deal here except to say that I've seen some high end barrels that would indicate out 4 thousanths or so in the inch in front of the throat and those barrels, in my opinion, demand the Gritters method. I've seen many of those shoot very well so I dunno how important being straight is except I would say the straighter they are the more I like it. LOL
mwezell
Mike Ezell
Very good post Paul!