Does a carbon ring effect accuracy and how?

That's an extremely good point that Bill made.

You kinda have to not let it happen in the first place if you have a concern about it. Cleaning a badly formed carbon ring is difficult.
 
Shooting 133 in a PPC, cleaning with a bronze brush, Butch's Bore Shine, and patches, I have not had carbon rings show up, but with other powders I have, and to remove them, I have CAREFULLY used IOSSO on a nylon brush, short stroked in the throat and the back 8-10 inches of the barrel, or a little farther up the barrel, with slower powders in larger calibers. A bore scope is very helpful when dealing with this. One does not want to use abrasives more than is necessary to get the job done, and good rod technique and a better than average bore guide, with a bushing on the rod, should be SOP.
 
Thanks Boyd!

One thing to remember if you're shooting competitively - if your barrel is not winning you don't need to concern yourself. If it is winning, keep it as clean as possible (what Boyd said) without doing something that will cause it to quit shooting well. If you win one 4 gun you can call it a good barrel.
 
I also think if you let the carbon ring build up it will eventually will cause the case neck to crimp the bullet and that you don't want.

Joe salt
 
chaymbrd said:
What is the best way to get rid of a carbon ring?
Click to expand...

Use an over sized brush with a pea sized amount of JB Paste on the end. Spin the brush about 30 revolutions at the end of the neck chamber about every 40 to 50 rounds. Thoroughly remove before starting your normal cleaning. Use a borescope to view the cleaning to ensure you're working the correct spot. Be consistent in your cleaning. :)
 
Can anyone direct me to an image/picture of what the carbon ring looks like through a Hawkeye borescope?

Thanks!
 
No, but I can tell you where to look, right at the top of the angle that is the transition between chamber neck, and freebore. Others have referred to the build up in the corner at the end of the neck part of the chamber, but my experience has been that that is just powder fouling that many cleaning procedures fail to reach. IMO a real hard carbon ring requires an abrasive to remove, and suitable care when that is done.
 
Boyd In other words where the neck end of the reamer stops, am I safe saying that, maybe that will give him the picture in his mind were to look?

Joe Salt
 
Joe,
If he looks at a reamer print, he will see an angled transition from the end of the neck to the back of the freebore. The place that I am referring to is the top of that angled part, right next to the freebore. There is another issue that involves build up of powder fouling in the inside corner where the parallel part of the neck ends. Both need to be seen about when cleaning. Just running a regular bore brush, of a size suitable for rest of the barrel, over that area will not by itself get the job done, although it can take a while for problems to show up....typically several cleaning and shooting cycles, and the degree of both depends on such things as what powder, and how much. The trick is to do what is needed in these areas, with good technique, the right equipment, while not getting carried away with an abrasive. IMO, this is not a place where more is better.
Boyd
 
I hope we are talking the same spot! What I do before I start cleaning the barrel itself, is 30 cal. now, Put a 3" square patch on a 30 cal brush sinclair chamber cleaning rod, put your choice of cleaners on it. Two or three patches should get most of the carbon out. next I go in with a 35 cal. brush if you want add cleaner to brush, give it a few turns, then back in with a clean patch. Oh, I have two rods don't want people to think I keep changing brushes. Look with borescope to see if you need to brush more, the rest is up to you. The place just before where the fire cracking starts, that it. I can't explain it any better than that!

joe Salt
 
The IOSSO 6.5mm brushes help a lot. After I read about them in Tony's book, I'd say it cut the removal time in half.
 
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