Not just removing the firing pin assbly; I have the tool for that. Rather taking the shroud, firing pin, spring etc apart. I have a Hall M which has been used very little. It seems to shoot inconsistently with a couple of barrels. There are some wear marks on the thicker section of the firing pin and on the stop (sides) which looks like they are hitting somewhere inside the bolt body. I want to hone things out a bit w/o changing shapes of course. It is not obvious to me how to disassemble the firing pin assembly, and I could not find directions. Could someone help with that? Thx
Disassembling a Hall bolt completely
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Dusty Stevens
Hollow Point Dispenser
Its a roll pin that goes thru the cocking piece/ firing pin. And you drive it into the shroud while containing the parts of course. Then you get the pin from the backside and install it back into the front. He used remington model seven/xp100 firing pin springs.
Thx Dusty. OK, I see a hole on the cocking piece. The pin isn't visible, but I guess it must be recessed a bit in the hole, so I can use my driver to knock it out. Does the spring need to be restrained or something? Do I keep the "bolt removal tool" locked on during the process, or take that off?
Also, I see the trigger hanger has a "B" marked near one of the screw holes. Currently it is on the front end of the hanger in relation to the Jewel trigger. Hope the "B" doesn't stand for "Back"?
Also, I see the trigger hanger has a "B" marked near one of the screw holes. Currently it is on the front end of the hanger in relation to the Jewel trigger. Hope the "B" doesn't stand for "Back"?
Wayne Shaw
Active member
The Hall I had used two socket head screws that hold the firing pin in place. Look at the bottom of the cocking piece, there is a small socket set screw down there, one on top of the other. Take these out and the firing pin will unscrew. Measure it so it goes back in the same place.
Dusty Stevens
Hollow Point Dispenser
If it does have screws and is threaded do what wayne said. Look for 2 screws. With a bright light you can see whats in there. If its a roll pin follow my instructions and yes the pin will shoot out the tool wont help. Let us know what you find- my current hall B has the roll pin
Seems Allan used both methods to join the firing pin shaft and cocking piece. On my Hall-S, there are two 1/16th" hex heads, one to secure the firing pin and the other on top of it to lock the first. My Hall-M has a roll pin. This fooled me for a while. It is set pretty deep and there was some oily dirt that hid its identity. The hex key, seemed to "turn" but nothing moved; it was just churning the gunk. Uncertain, I finally broke down and called Allan Hall. I resisted doing this, because I knew he would give me a hard time about "messing" with his action. He did, but finally explained that the "M" almost certainly had a roll pin. It is important to make a "guide" to locate the depth the pin is set, because it is half-way into the firing pin shaft and half-way in the cocking piece. Driving it out fully does not happen, at least in my "M," rather the pin is driven completely into the firing pin shaft which then can be unscrewed from the cocking piece.
The "stop" on the firing pin shaft has a "dimple" marked to locate the position to turn the shaft when re-assembling it.
By the way, the "B" marking on the trigger hanger DOES stand for "back." Mine had been assembled in front (not by Hall). It did seem to function fine that way, but evidently there is some small dimensional difference.
The "stop" on the firing pin shaft has a "dimple" marked to locate the position to turn the shaft when re-assembling it.
By the way, the "B" marking on the trigger hanger DOES stand for "back." Mine had been assembled in front (not by Hall). It did seem to function fine that way, but evidently there is some small dimensional difference.