cutting oils. Sulfur chlorine. ??????

Jay Cutright said:
I'm not on these forums enough to know who's still around but there was a fellar called "Rusty Stud" that used a lubricunt in his flushing system that he claimed was very good stuff. He had reamers that had chambered thousands of barrels with no noticeable wear. I cannot remember the name of that lubricunt. Dave Tooley knows I asked him about it a few years ago when I was looking to try something other than mobile met and he referred me to ole Rusty Stud. (I'm remembering more as I'm typing.) He was still using it when I looked him up several years ago. A good fellar too. Not one of those that you ask about a product then they tell you how much they know about chambering barrels so they can go around claiming they taught you. Lol!
You should check into it Lee, since you are just getting started in this.:cool:
Click to expand...

RustyStud is Nat Lambeth http://customgunsandammunition.com/aboutus.html.
 
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I asked this question to Nat over the summer and this was his reply to me.
Buck


I just got off the phone with Robert Myers and he said to use UltraCut Pro, diluted 1:10 with distilled water.
Nat


Buck Rustlic was purchased by ITW. I am not sure but think Rustlic was replaced by UltraCutt255R. That may have been replaced by UltraCutt Pro. I am waiting on a call from Robert Myers (ITW engineer) 949 366-2422. To hear what he recommends replacing Rustlic 255R with. I am using Rustlic WC5050 in my vertical mill and think it would work in my High Pressure Flush system as well.
I will post what Robert tells me he thinks would be the best replacement for Rustlic 255R.
Thanks Nat Lambeth
 
Up until about 10 years ago I used Rustlic WS-5050 in my CNC machines and a few grinders. I had a lot of problems with the product, particularly sump life. I looked up the ULTRACUT Pro and they reference its biostability, bacteria and fungal control. This was the root of my problems with the WS-5050 so it appears this product is an improved version to address those issues.

A word of caution from my, (costly), experiences. These water solubles are going to be in the range of 90% water when mixed. Corrosion can be an issue if the oil is not strong with corrosion inhibitors. Many of these companies use chlorine to control the bacterial/fungal issues which is a corrosive. When the oils are new they work pretty good. They are considered an emulsion where the oils, biocides, rust inhibitors, etc. are evenly distributed throughout the solution in tiny little droplets. Contaminants such as iron particles can attach to the droplets causing them to fall out of solution or clump up so they are not as uniformly distributed throughout the solution. Water evaporates and the oils stick to parts removed from the machine. Therefore, to maintain proper mix ratios you should be using a brix scale tool. I'm not trying to scare anyone to think bad things WILL happen, just that it can.

In my opinion the entire purpose of water soluble oils is to mimic the properties of petroleum cutting oils while providing a less messy cleanup. When I have a difficult cutting situation I have to turn to the cutting oils because I have not had a water soluble compare -- particularly when it comes to tool life. Some of my tooling reps tell me the shops that they deal with that dominate difficult to machine metals use petroleum cutting oils in their CNCs. Good water solubles are not cheaper either. Today I use TRIM E906. It is preforming the best of any I have used to date. The last drum I bought was $1300 at a largely discounted price. My choice for a part time gunsmithing lathe would be a good quality sulfurized cutting oil.
 
Joe
I appreciate that info. From what I have been reading I seem to agree. I guess what I wish I knew is if a dark sulfur type oil can pump successfuly through the pump system? I don't know of anyone using dark oil in there flush systems to ask. Thanks again. Lee
 
I run Vipers Venom in my flush system without a problem. Pressures will run between 45 and 150 psi depending on caliber and reamer size. Pressure always drops as soon as you pull the reamer out. The one thing I did was use Hydraforce valves and a electric controller. Now my flow on and off is on a foot switch also a air line to blow the oil out of the bore into a cup. The oil runs through a return strainer to tank then a suction strainer into pump and then a hydraulic pressure filter of 5 microns before the valving and barrel.
 
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