Crown Touch Up wiith piloted PTG Center Reamer ?

M

mrh1958

New member
Is it possible to touch up by hand a factory crown up with a piloted PTG 60 degree center reamer ? Would it do a decent job or no ?
 
I think they make some crowning tools that may be better suited to the job. Just my opinion you need way less than a 60deg angle
 
I probably wouldn't try it. Kiff does sell a tool that might help you out. If not there are lots of fellas here that might be able to help you out. Good luck. Lee
 
Piloted Crowning tools

PT&G makes piloted 90*, 79*(11* finish), 60*, tooling for crowning. Remember you need to order the correct pilot sizes for the correct bushing sizes. They also makes (.701-.715) counter bores for Remingtons and clones, they make 26* and 30* cone cutters for custom actions.

I suggest you talk with Jessica the Asst. Director of sales at PT&G. 541 826-5808.

Nat Lambeth
 
I did. I said sure it would work but most choose to go with way less of an angle than 60- like 11deg at the most with the majority using some variation of recessed flat
 
I think what he is looking to do is make a small chamfer at the bore, not an entire 60 degree crown. That would be one wicked tapered crown, lol. Certainly, it will work to chamfer the bore.
 
Rustystud said:
PT&G makes piloted 90*, 79*(11* finish), 60*, tooling for crowning. Remember you need to order the correct pilot sizes for the correct bushing sizes. They also makes (.701-.715) counter bores for Remingtons and clones, they make 26* and 30* cone cutters for custom actions.

I suggest you talk with Jessica the Asst. Director of sales at PT&G. 541 826-5808.

Nat Lambeth
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Thanks for that info I will look into those, I check my crowns under magnification and it seems most factory rifles that I encounter need crown work to me (22 RF) this is why I am looking for a low cost alternative to having a gunsmith do them I have a Manson crown tool but sometimes I could get by with just touching up the factory crown rather then re-cut the entire muzzle.
 
If it's just a little burr, that brass round-headed screw sounds doable. There's no guarantee that a pilot won't do its own damage.
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mrh1958 said:
Thanks for that info I will look into those, I check my crowns under magnification and it seems most factory rifles that I encounter need crown work to me (22 RF) this is why I am looking for a low cost alternative to having a gunsmith do them I have a Manson crown tool but sometimes I could get by with just touching up the factory crown rather then re-cut the entire muzzle.
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Dave Manson makes a tool for just what you want to do. It is piloted and hand cranked. A little pricey. Call Manson Precision
Nat Lambeth
 
I would use a piloted crowning tool, or 60 degree center cutter, or even touch it with a reamer, before I would use a brass screw or ball or anything and push into the barrel. If I couldn't use a lathe of course.
 
Wayne Shaw said:
I would use a piloted crowning tool, or 60 degree center cutter, or even touch it with a reamer, before I would use a brass screw or ball or anything and push into the barrel. If I couldn't use a lathe of course.
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+1 on the that. Brass plus lapping compound gives me the chills thinking about it, lol
 
it takes brass balls to do this

I probably wouldn't use the brass ball lapping compound on a benchrest barrel. It might improve a hunting barrel crown. Most of those I have seen are pretty rough. Why not try it and see if it improves accuracy? You can always purchase a crowning tool or have a new crown cut on a lathe if you bugger it up. If you use the brass ball and lapping compound give us some follow up about the result. Tim
 
I have a set of hand crowning tools from Brownells that I acquired many years ago. I haven't used them since I got my lathe in 2001. They use steel or brass solid pilots about 2" long. they do cut a nice clean crown. I have both the 79o and the 45o cutters. They leave slight marks on the lands from the pilot which is why I probably wouldn't use them on a custom barrel except in a pinch. For most factory barrels I wouldn't hesitate to use them. I know the military rifle team gunsmiths have used these style of tools for a long time on match service rifles and they seem to do OK. the link show the page with the tools I have and also the much pricier Manson tool which does not mark the bore at all.

http://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=muzzle+crown+cutter&ksubmit=y
 
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I have a Manson tool and it does great just sometimes is it a bit more than is needed,I have also had the Brownells cutters and I dont like the solid pilot as it will mark up the lands,just was hoping that piloted center cutter would do the trick and do it right.
 
I've used the Brownells tools, but I make sure chips don't go into the barrel. Lots of sulphur oil, and brush/wipe out chips about every ten turns. Slow, but worked nicely on two of my LR rifles, that were losing accuracy after a couple thou rounds. No marks on the lands. I also deepened the relief cuts on the Brownell tool with my Dremel cutoff wheel, giving more room for chips to escape.
 
I use a piloted 60 from JGS. Fed by hand it will chatter but in the lathe I go until I can just barely see some tiny chips though my optivisor. Cuts just enough to avoid burrs from cleaning etc. The same guys are still winning matches so it should be okay.
 
The rumor is, at least the way it was told to me. One of the most well know gunsmiths in this country, used a brass ball and lapping compound to touch up his crowns, after cutting the crown on a lathe. I wont name names, as I didn't hear this straight from this man, nor have I had any work done by him. The source is reliable though. After hearing this I decided I would give it a try. The barrel shot just fine!!! ????? Lee
 
I would not underestimate the precision of a properly executed brass–ball lapping job. Presuming the barrel end is square to the bore.
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