Corrosion

R

Rick B

New member
I have a replica of a Colt percussion revolver that looked clean when I acquired it. Everything turned nicely. By now you've guessed it wasn't properly cleaned and I was negligent in not tearing it down immediately. Apparently some humid weather combined with fowling on the interior to corrode things. I managed to disassemble it with the aid of a mallet and have had it soaking in oil for quite some time to at least stop the corrosion.

Can anyone suggest something to clean up the corrosion? Unless there is a chemical, I guess I'll start with a cleaning pad, then some steel wool and then, perhaps some emory cloth and/or polishing compound such as Flitz to get down to bare metal. After than I'm thinking of just cold bluing the affected areas and going from there.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Rick
 
Rick B said:
I have a replica of a Colt percussion revolver that looked clean when I acquired it. Everything turned nicely. By now you've guessed it wasn't properly cleaned and I was negligent in not tearing it down immediately. Apparently some humid weather combined with fowling on the interior to corrode things. I managed to disassemble it with the aid of a mallet and have had it soaking in oil for quite some time to at least stop the corrosion.

Can anyone suggest something to clean up the corrosion? Unless there is a chemical, I guess I'll start with a cleaning pad, then some steel wool and then, perhaps some emory cloth and/or polishing compound such as Flitz to get down to bare metal. After than I'm thinking of just cold bluing the affected areas and going from there.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Rick
Click to expand...

Hi Rick,

Try boiling the parts for several hours (not in your cookware, and you'll have to top up the water here and there. This converts the "red" rust to "gray" rust, which brushes off easily with a carding wheel or some 0000 steel wool. This method will preserve the finish that remains in the unaffected area. Most chemical treatments will remove existing bluing or other oxide finishes.

Here's an example. These parts have been boiled for ~1 hour and you can clearly see where conversion has taken place (and where it hasn't).

Good luck!
GsT
01boiled.jpg
 
That hasn't been my experience with it....I'm sure it somewhat depends on the bluing that's on the gun.

For mild corrosion issues, I've had good luck with an ultrasonic cleaner and a 4-1 solution of distilled water and Simple Green Concentrate. I put the parts in a plastic freeze zip lock baggie full of solution and submerge the baggie in the tank filled with tap water.

For what it's worth. -Al
 
Al Nyhus said:
That hasn't been my experience with it....I'm sure it somewhat depends on the bluing that's on the gun.

For mild corrosion issues, I've had good luck with an ultrasonic cleaner and a 4-1 solution of distilled water and Simple Green Concentrate. I put the parts in a plastic freeze zip lock baggie full of solution and submerge the baggie in the tank filled with tap water.

For what it's worth. -Al
Click to expand...

Interesting. I've had it take bluing / black-oxide off almost-completely. I use (well, used to use) a *lot* of EvapoRust - I lived in Oregon... I still have some on hand for removing the Oregon from things that have escaped my attention. I have heard about good results with an ultrasonic - and much faster than just boiling - but have not yet taken the dive and purchased one.

GsT
 
After writing that, I tried an experiment

I found three bits of blued barrel in my scrap pile and stood them up in a tub of EvapoRust. I meant to leave them for 30 minutes, but was completely distracted and they soaked for 16-ish hours. To my surprise, only one (a Remington take-off bbl) was affected. I guess it's all down to metallurgy and/or some variation in the finish.

GsT
 
Gene, that experience with EvapoRust mirrors mine on blued materials.

Not long ago, I did a S&W Model 28 Highway Patrol revolver that had some corrosion due to poor storage. After a soak in EvapoRust, a hot water bath and dunking in acetone as a final clean, the metal was squeeky-clean...literally. After warming the metal pieces up with an industrial heat gun, I rubbed Kroil on the metal with a lint free cotton cloth. You could actually see the Kroil being taken up by the metal. :cool:

For an ultrasonic cleaner, this 2.5 liter Central Machinery unit sold by Harbor Freight is one of the most used things in my gun room. From triggers, to bolt bodies, to receivers...you name it, it goes in there. I can't imagine not having one! :D

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html

Lots of voodoo and hoodoo about cleaning potions and so on but don't get too caught up in that. Any good concentrated cleaner like Simple Green cut with distilled water from 4-1 to 5-1 will do the job. Putting the pieces in heavy duty zip lock bags with the solution and then filing the tank with tap water to cover the baggie makes cleanup a breeze. I pour the dirty cleaner back into a glass Mason jar and let the crud settle to the bottom. The clean concentrate above it can be used many times.

If you put aluminum pieces in the ultrasonic cleaner with mix, they do turn black. It rubs right off so no biggie. I've also used this to 'blacken' aluminum and then hit it with a matte or gloss fuel resistant aerosol clear that R.C. airplane guys use for a durable finish.

More that you likely wanted to know but there it is! ;)

Good shootin' -Al
 
Last edited:
Al Nyhus said:
For an ultrasonic cleaner, this 2.5 liter Central Machinery unit sold by Harbor Freight is one of the most used things in my gun room. From triggers, to bolt bodies, to receivers...you name it, it goes in there. I can't imagine not having one! :D

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html
Al
Click to expand...

Mr. Nyhus; Would you care to share with us how long you've had that in use?
I've been wanting an ultrasonic, but am a bit leery of H-F's electrical stuff.

Thanks.....Roger
 
GTS225 said:
Mr. Nyhus; Would you care to share with us how long you've had that in use?
I've been wanting an ultrasonic, but am a bit leery of H-F's electrical stuff. Thanks.....Roger
Click to expand...

Roger, I've had it for two years. I'm only a hobbiest/hacker/gun-gacker but it gets used at least a 3-4 times a week. I bought it on the advice of a local pistolero guru that does a lot of Glock, Springfield and 1911 work.

As an aside, Central Machinery is just a brand that Harbor Freight sells. Central Machinery products have been around a long time as a stand-alone brand and can be purchased from many sources.

Good shootin' :) -Al
 
Al Nyhus said:
Roger, I've had it for two years. I'm only a hobbiest/hacker/gun-gacker but it gets used at least a 3-4 times a week. I bought it on the advice of a local pistolero guru that does a lot of Glock, Springfield and 1911 work.

As an aside, Central Machinery is just a brand that Harbor Freight sells. Central Machinery products have been around a long time as a stand-alone brand and can be purchased from many sources.

Good shootin' :) -Al
Click to expand...

Thanks, Al. That sells me on one of thiers. Heat would be nice, though. The price is much more attractive than the "better" ones with the stainless housings, and a "take me home" price a whole lot higher.

Roger
 
GTS225 said:
Thanks, Al. That sells me on one of thiers. Heat would be nice, though. The price is much more attractive than the "better" ones with the stainless housings, and a "take me home" price a whole lot higher. Roger
Click to expand...

Roger, the Central Machinery cleaner I linked from H.F. does have a 'heat' mode....I use it every time. The run time limit is 9 minutes after which it auto turns off. That seems pretty short but with the heat mode on, the solution gets pretty warm. After three cycles, it's darn hot. I understand why they limit the cycle time.

Hope this helps. -Al
 
There are numerous 'formulas' for blackening and bluing steel.
Colors can depend on the steel composition, and details of technique.

Most are surface corrosion in the presence of other metals instead of oxygen.
Oxygen produces the classic red rust of iron oxide.
It is NOT usually very hard and offers no protection for the most part.
Selenium corrosion is common.

Be very careful.
The heavy metals used can be dangerous when absorbed through the skin.
Steam blackening is one of the least expensive methods.
When used to help hold oil in place it can work nicely.
It leaves a bit of a 'tooth' on the metal surface to hold oil.
The actual cutting edge is normally polished back to bare steel.
 
Last edited:
Al Nyhus said:
Roger, the Central Machinery cleaner I linked from H.F. does have a 'heat' mode....I use it every time. The run time limit is 9 minutes after which it auto turns off. That seems pretty short but with the heat mode on, the solution gets pretty warm. After three cycles, it's darn hot. I understand why they limit the cycle time.

Hope this helps. -Al
Click to expand...

Hmmmm. Guess I should read the descriptions better. I missed that, and it looked like it had just the digital timer.
Thanks for the correction of my oversight. That makes it all the more attractive.

Roger
 
Al Nyhus said:
So...what did you end up doing? -Al
Click to expand...

I’ve been tied up on other projections and so have not yet tried anything. My inclination is to try the boiling and then the ultrasonic cleaner. I’ve been meaning to order one anyway for cleaning cases and parts so this is as good a reason as any to do it. After that I guess I’ll try a selective application of chemicals if needed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top