Choosing .22BR dies?

Ed and I disagree on your direction, a lot :)

Soooo, here's my take. If your loaded rounds measure .252 I would ratchet my original numbers upwards such that your largest bushing is .002 smaller (.250) and then down two more steps (.249 and .248) I see no reason to get a .251 but that's up to you.


Now, to back up a liddle (and to prove that I'm lissening) you say now that your FIRED cases measure .252 and your LOADED cases measure the same? .........252??? If so, this is kinda cool. You can poke your primers out manually, reprime, load and shoot with no sizing A'tall if you want. I've done this on the varmint patch. Taken some brass, a Wilson primer punch a hand priming tool and a powder thrower and shot all day......BR guys used to call this "shooting fitted necks."

al
 
Ed and I disagree on your direction, a lot :)

Soooo, here's my take. If your loaded rounds measure .252 I would ratchet my original numbers upwards such that your largest bushing is .002 smaller (.250) and then down two more steps (.249 and .248) I see no reason to get a .251 but that's up to you.

Now, to back up a liddle (and to prove that I'm lissening) you say now that your FIRED cases measure .252 and your LOADED cases measure the same? .........252??? If so, this is kinda cool. You can poke your primers out manually, reprime, load and shoot with no sizing A'tall if you want. I've done this on the varmint patch. Taken some brass, a Wilson primer punch a hand priming tool and a powder thrower and shot all day......BR guys used to call this "shooting fitted necks."

al

Al,

.250", .249" and .248" seem good to me. I know a lot of different things are factors in determining neck tension (seating depth, neck wall thickness, etc.) but I agree that the .251" bushing doesn't really seem necessary.

I measured the necks of the fired cases again and they do measure .252"...that is kind of cool now that you mention it and a cool varminting story to go along with it.

The way I see it now there is really no way to avoid having to purchase multiple bushings right? I guess the point of having all three is to experiment with which is best...

Thanks again!
 
Well, yeahh..... you can avoid getting them all, you don't really NEED any. Your bullets will stay in the case with no resizing at all, until you get some new (thinner) brass.......

But if you want just one I'd go with the .249

al
 
Well, yeahh..... you can avoid getting them all, you don't really NEED any. Your bullets will stay in the case with no resizing at all, until you get some new (thinner) brass.......

But if you want just one I'd go with the .249

al

Al,

Yea I get what your saying. These loaded rounds and brass I've measured is from an unknown lot of Lapua...I don't know when it was made or anything, but guessing from the age of the rifle it's probably from the last two years. The Lapua brass I plan on using is new stock from Sinclairs...I got 300 pieces all the same lot. If that matters at all...
 
Al,

Yea I get what your saying. These loaded rounds and brass I've measured is from an unknown lot of Lapua...I don't know when it was made or anything, but guessing from the age of the rifle it's probably from the last two years. The Lapua brass I plan on using is new stock from Sinclairs...I got 300 pieces all the same lot. If that matters at all...

I keep my lots separated, I think it matters.

Measure the new stuff before ordering your bushing??? For a light seat (.001 interference) go with .002 smaller than your loaded round.

al
 
I keep my lots separated, I think it matters.

Measure the new stuff before ordering your bushing??? For a light seat (.001 interference) go with .002 smaller than your loaded round.

al

Al,

I agree that it does matter. The only thing is I don't have any loaded rounds using this new lot of Lapua...currently I've only necked to .224 using a form die, that's it. So I really don't know how I'd be able to figure out how to measure the loaded round since I need the bushing to create the loaded round?
 
Bold Lion,

So, what do the necked rounds measure after you've necked 'em? Are you quite sure you couldn't seat a bullet into them? Howsabout if you run them over the expander ball?

Worstest case neck them, fill them 1/2 full of shotgun powder (NO BULLET!!!) and fire into the air.... THAT'll pop 'em out. You can fireform using shotgun powder, just start with 1/2 case and work up using thrown (measured) loads until you get the popout you want....somewhere around 3/4 full they'll form just as if you'd fired them conventionally.

al
 
Ed and I disagree on your direction, a lot :)

Soooo, here's my take. If your loaded rounds measure .252 I would ratchet my original numbers upwards such that your largest bushing is .002 smaller (.250) and then down two more steps (.249 and .248) I see no reason to get a .251 but that's up to you.


Now, to back up a liddle (and to prove that I'm lissening) you say now that your FIRED cases measure .252 and your LOADED cases measure the same? .........252??? If so, this is kinda cool. You can poke your primers out manually, reprime, load and shoot with no sizing A'tall if you want. I've done this on the varmint patch. Taken some brass, a Wilson primer punch a hand priming tool and a powder thrower and shot all day......BR guys used to call this "shooting fitted necks."

al

Bold Lion,

I know that Al and I don't seem to agree on bushing size, but I have a 22BR and load for it. A bushing of .248 might be so tight that if you seat a flat base bullet it will distort the neck because of too much tension (key word might). Here is a copy of Directions from Precision Reloading:

"Redding Die Bushings

Bushing Selection and Use
The easiest way to determine the proper Redding Die Bushing diameter; is to measure the neck diameter of several loaded or dummy cartridges with an accurate micrometer. Subtract .001" from the smallest average neck diameter and this diameter bushing will generally size case necks to create the proper press fit for the bullet.

If the neck wall thickness of your cases is on the thin side of the SAAMI tolerance, your fired case necks will measure considerably larger (.006-.010" larger) than your loaded cartridges. Under these circumstances, our tests have shown that a bushing .001" larger may give the desired results.

Another method is to measure the neck thickness with a ball micrometer. Double the neck wall thickness and add this number to the bullet diameter. The result is the neck diameter of a loaded cartridge, and bushing size can be determined as above.

After loading several cases, it's a good idea to test the neck's grip on the bullet. The simplest method is to push the bullet in a loaded cartridge against the edge of your reloading bench with moderate hand pressure. The bullet should not move easily in the case neck. If the bullet pushes deeper in the case, select the next smaller bushing and start again.

When using your bushing die, we have found that lubricating case necks and installing the bushing numbers down may improve results. Many reloaders like to adjust the die to size 1/2 to 3/4 of the case neck. This has been shown to improve accuracy in some instances"

Ed
 
Bold Lion,

So, what do the necked rounds measure after you've necked 'em? Are you quite sure you couldn't seat a bullet into them? Howsabout if you run them over the expander ball?

Worstest case neck them, fill them 1/2 full of shotgun powder (NO BULLET!!!) and fire into the air.... THAT'll pop 'em out. You can fireform using shotgun powder, just start with 1/2 case and work up using thrown (measured) loads until you get the popout you want....somewhere around 3/4 full they'll form just as if you'd fired them conventionally.

al

Al,

I could just use the regular Forster FL die I have...and then I'd be able to get the measurement I need for the bushing using this run of Lapua I think?

Kyle
 
well, yeahhh....... that's what the die is designed for :)

al

Al,

I knew that!!! :mad: ;)

I just wanted to size with the bushing but I think using the FL die will yield the most accurate results when trying to choose this bushing.

Thanks!
 
Just to throw my two cents in...I have a .252 neck and I prefer the .250 bushing. I ordered a .248 and a .249 also but don't use them.
 
Just to throw my two cents in...I have a .252 neck and I prefer the .250 bushing. I ordered a .248 and a .249 also but don't use them.


Yet there are competitors on this board who've posted interferences as great as .005 in the last 6mo ;)

Ya' just never knows......

al
 
Yet there are competitors on this board who've posted interferences as great as .005 in the last 6mo ;)

Ya' just never knows......

al

Al,

Do you actually own and load a 22BR. For some reason you seem to discredit anyone’s opinion other than you own, as in the case of your retort to Glen. I for one have a 22 BR with a .254 neck (chamber size). Loaded rounds measure .252 and I use a bushing size of .251. Tried using a bushing of .250 but did not like the amount of resistance I felt when seating a bullet. Even experts such as “Redding” suggest that you start with a bushing .001 smaller than the loaded round size.

Ed
 
Hey Eddie,

I heard ya' the first time...

Does it matter whether or not I own one?? How is the 22BR any different than anything else?

WHY does it matter to you?

It's thinking like this that I respond to, it's muddled and incomplete. "Shooting something" or owning a certain caliber or chambering doesn't somehow make you an expert.

You come on the Centerfire Bench Rest forum spouting your opinion on a chambering because you own one.

?????


Maybe pushing your argument by reiterating your opinion and finding others who'll back you up works over on Ye Jollie Communal Hunting and Grunting Forum but here you must explain yourself not just keep insisting that "I own a Ferd Truck and THEY'RE THE BEST! And here's another Ferd owner and he sez so too!!"






So, for all of you who're following this opinion-fest, here's what matters. (Note that this information holds true for anything, it's not just relevant to "The Twenty Two BR" for some weird reason.)

The first thing to know is that brass 'springs back' just like any other common metal. This means that if you want to bend a bar to 45 degrees you must bend it past 45 and it'll spring or bounce back to where you want it. And just a gentle nudge is needed to bring it back after bending.....it's still got some tension in it. So you need to go PAST and then BACK etc experimenting until it settles down where you want it. The same holds true for sizing a cartridge case whether it be neck sizing or body sizing you must size it down to smaller than you want it and it springs back to where you want it. In round figures a thick no-turn 22nk that was squozen down from a 6mm neck will bounce back a solid thou+ then it will creep another tenth or two over the next week. The amount that you size controls this to an extent, as does thickness. Also springback changes with the number of firings. Brass work-hardens from being hammered, stretched, squeezed, folded spindled or mutilated.......... suffice it to say that you'll size it down 'X', it'll bounce back 'X', but in the end you'll end up with "something" under bullet diameter. There are maybe 50 people in the world qualified to "measure" this but that doesn't really matter. To the rest of us it's sufficient to gage it or arrive at our settings thru experimentation. You need a bushing small enough to make a difference, the difference between neck size and bullet size is called interference.

Interference is often referred to by the term "neck tension."

Neck tension affects "bullet pull" or how much pressure it takes to remove the bullet from the neck.

Neck tension varies wildly depending on conditions a simple as WHEN you reload the resized cases. It's different for bullets loaded immediately or bullets loaded a week later.





Probably the most common neck tension figure currently being bandied about is ".002 neck tension." Many folks feel that this is an appropriate starting point for the 6PPC burning V133 because "133 likes neck tension" and some run up to .004 in half thou increments as they tune. To get .002 neck tension one would normally use a bushing that measures .003 smaller than the loaded round measured over the pressure ring on the bullet. To get .004 interference requires a bushing that's .005 smaller. Most people feel that going beyond .004 is futile and I generally agree although when working with thick brass that's been fired many times I've still found adjustment in the .006 range. Beyond a certain point extra interference is wasted effort because the bullet just swages the neck back out beyond what you swaged in, bullet pull becomes constant.

Many competitive shooters feel that interference is an important variable. Some reasons quoted for messing with neck tension are that it "changes the pressure curve" or that "it raises pressure and makes my powder burn cleaner" or "more tension decreases my ES." There are many more reasons. A lot of people play with neck tension while "tuning" with no regard for the why of it, just tuning by shooting for group.

It don't MATTER why......if it works.

Most if not all of the people shooting the rifles used here on the centerfire have played with neck tension a lot. The question of "how may bushings do I need" has been asked many times. It's generally been considered accepted practice to order bushings from .001 down to .005 under so one can "play with neck tension" from .001 to .004 interference. There are no hard and fast rules but some of the common variables that affect their effect are;

- neck thickness and variability.
- neck hardness (age, lot and number of firings)
- bullet size
- bullet hardness
- bullet coating
- chamfer or trim
- lube


etc


etc


I've yet to meet a guy who doesn't at some time in his pursuit get bitten with the bug to turn necks. Turning necks for your rifle to "clean them up" is advocated by about 99.876% of the shooters on the planet. As a shooter YOU WILL be told that "cleaning up your necks will make your rifle more accurate."

And you will try it.

And you will need a smaller bushing. You will use that stupid .004 under bush at last :)


Also, let me state that neck tension gets more airtime than is warranted IN MY OPINION. I generally set up my chambers one of two ways;

-I chamber for .001 neck clearance and often use a .002 under bushing.

or

-I chamber for .002 neck clearance and use a .003 under bushing.



This is because I don't "play with neck tension" much anymore. My goal is to maintain concentricity while not letting the bullet fall out of the case. In fact, I like enough tension that I can throw some rounds in my pocket while I walk out to the bench to test another load. I like enough tension that it's not easy to move the bullet. I add another thou interference for hunting rounds. My current neck tension settings have less to do with "accuracy" and more to do with utility....and case life.

I earned this opinion by owning and using over 40 bushings in whole and half-thou sizes both standard and carbide. There are a number of other variables.... I could double the length of this post without repeating myself or citing endless instances, JUST variables, but my little fingers get so tired. (Ohhh, and just to be clear for Mr Ed, uhhhh, YES Ed, I own 22BR's. In three neck sizes)

It hurts to admit that but I've wasted enough time trying to be subtle....

My intent is simply to help Bold Lion spend his money wisely.


opinionsby

al
 
Al,

Not that I have to defend my self to you, but I have been shooting since I was twelve and reloading ever since I came back from ‘Nam so that makes about 40 years plus. I shoot at Camillus NY with some very good centerfire benchrest folks. So anything that I don’t know I am quick to get an answer and besides them I have both Jim Hart and Jack Sutton from Hart Rifle Barrels, who have made my custom guns, for guidance. Just because
I have posted so few times, I only post when I feel that I can help or I am looking for a answer to question. Bold Lion asked a simple question and one of the simple answers was to use what companies such a Redding suggest, which is to start .001 smaller. What is you problem with that simple starting point. All the rest of your verbiage is not keeping it simple.
 
Al,

Not to cause any more bickering, but one interesting point. It is funny that you mention “springback”. If you do a bit of research or if your memory serves you well, you might know that Redding use to suggest a bushing size of .002 smaller than a loaded round, but due to “springback” has revised their suggestion to .001 smaller.
 
Al,

Not to cause any more bickering, but one interesting point. It is funny that you mention “springback”. If you do a bit of research or if your memory serves you well, you might know that Redding use to suggest a bushing size of .002 smaller than a loaded round, but due to “springback” has revised their suggestion to .001 smaller.
Ed, at the risk of another 35 posts, what you -- Redding -- says makes absolutely no sense. Unless they're implying there is less spring back than they first thought. But then, that would depend on the number of resizings without annealing, wouldn't it?

A lot of wasted posts. If you don't know -- not guess -- but know the neck diameter of the chamber, you're all blowing smoke from funny cigarettes. There are ways to measure it. As to bushing size, what shoots best, is best. No way to predict, even if Redding thinks there is.

& by the way, you can buy a lot of shim stock & epoxy for the cost of a set of competition shell holders...
 
Charles E

If you read my posts I said that my chamber is .254 (known for sure) my loaded rounds usually measure .252, so I used a bushing size of .251. Also tried a .250 bushing but got better groups with the .251. And yes I agree it all boils down to what you gun like best.
 
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