Chambering: indicate bore before threading and/or before reamer?
- Thread starter Mram10
- Start date
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Yes, the barrel can move.
Best to indicate, ream, then thread. Its not important that the threads be dead nuts on, but it is important that the chamber be dead nuts true with the bore.
Indicate several times for an accurate chambering.
/
Dave Tooley
Active member
If you don't have confidence in your setup you need a different setup.
jackie schmidt
New member
I rough indicate the barrel, rough out the threads to within about .010 inch. I then indicate the barrel and establish the best chamber I can. Then I finish the tenon, set the headspace, cone, etc.
I then go back and check things.
I then go back and check things.
Has nothing to do with confidence. There is always a better way to do something. Just seeing what other guys do
Thank you, Sir. I’ve read a lot of threads about your setups and they obviously work.
Butch Lambert
Active member
Dave, I guess old M rap showed you. I guess when you have chambered as many barrels as he has you will understand.
Dave Tooley
Active member
and remember
"Best to indicate, ream, then thread. Its not important that the threads be dead nuts on, but it is important that the chamber be dead nuts true with the bore."
"Best to indicate, ream, then thread. Its not important that the threads be dead nuts on, but it is important that the chamber be dead nuts true with the bore."
You are the worst trash talker, man. Come on, you can do better than that! I’m disappointed in you, yet again
Thanks Dave, but I’m just a normal guy who puts on his pants one leg at a time like you
Butch Lambert
Active member
Man, I'm so sad! Give you a little pat on your butt and you don't know how to respond.
I'm so happy to see Mram10 isn't all upset here...... that he'll still let Dave know "he can relax in his august presence, that he's just a normal everyday guy, just like Tooley"
Thanks so much Mram10 for saving some grace for the little people
Thanks so much Mram10 for saving some grace for the little people
When you are dead
You don't know you are dead
so it's hard only for others.
It is the same when you are stupid.
You don't know you are dead
so it's hard only for others.
It is the same when you are stupid.
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Butch Lambert, Dave Tooley, what do you guys know??
After all you guys have only built a few hundred rifles!!
.
After all you guys have only built a few hundred rifles!!
.
Ohhh, and having had many barrels move while gripped with AL.....pads, wire, flatstock and milled rockers.....I will never use AL as a primary gripping surface again.
I've also used CU in these various configurations and am very happy with my latest creation wherein I run tie-wire thru 3/8" chunks of 1/4" copper tubing and after tying it to the jaws I SMASH IT onto the barrel surface. I've used the last set of wires on 7 barrels now and haven't had to replace it (which would entail a cost of 8-11min and approximately $.26)
Speaking of cost....I still have 30-40 70yr-old pennies from my lastest-bestest idea setup (not mine, from Jerry Sharrett) but I just don't have enough hands for Sharrett's method. Man must be an octopus!
LOL
That said, I DO check and while even 1/4" CU wire can move if you're not careful. I've never had pennies nor my newest tubing method move.
I've also used CU in these various configurations and am very happy with my latest creation wherein I run tie-wire thru 3/8" chunks of 1/4" copper tubing and after tying it to the jaws I SMASH IT onto the barrel surface. I've used the last set of wires on 7 barrels now and haven't had to replace it (which would entail a cost of 8-11min and approximately $.26)
Speaking of cost....I still have 30-40 70yr-old pennies from my lastest-bestest idea setup (not mine, from Jerry Sharrett) but I just don't have enough hands for Sharrett's method. Man must be an octopus!
LOL
That said, I DO check and while even 1/4" CU wire can move if you're not careful. I've never had pennies nor my newest tubing method move.