Case Coloring and Case Hardening

That seems reasonable me, jackie schmidt.

I just got off the phone with "Dave" at Brownell's, and somebody (I forget his name) at Turnbull's. "Dave" was helpful, and quickly recommended the articles in "Double Gun" referenced above. In fact, he said he thought those writings were the best that has ever been written on the subject. He felt, based on his personal experience that the Turk '38 receiver was a particularly good choice for case coloring. His first comment, repeated at the end of the conversation for emphasis, was: "There's a lot of snake-oil out there about case coloring." I'm sure he's quite right.

The fellow at Turnbull's was a bit "cagier" in his responses. At first, he stated that Turnbull case colored "No" bolt action receivers. Later he acknowledged that Turnbull does case coloring for a "few" manufacturers, citing Dakota and Neska in example. Finally, he 'hinted' that the Turk receiver was "a good candidate" for case coloring. That pretty much eliminates Turnbull as a viable alternative to doing it myself.

Neither of the fellows expressed any concern over the safety of the action after case coloring/hardening. The only comment made (by "Dave") was that if a receiver wasn't annealed first, the "coloring" would constitute a "double hardening". He didn't say he thought that was necessarily "bad", just that it would make further machining "almost impossible".

I also called the fellow that owns the Color Case Company in New Springfield, Ohio. I understand he is no longer in business, but I thought he might be able to offer some advice. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to raise him by phone.

"Dave" noted that the few people in the country that are doing case coloring as a business are quite tight-lipped about their processes.

And there-in 'lies the rub'.

It's a bit too 'convenient' to me that the achemists, out of one side of their mouths spread "gloom and doom" if the uninitiated even think about trying to do what the 'priests' do "behind closed doors". At the same time, out of the other side of their mouths, they refuse to reveal any of their "trade secrets". One or the other of those positions is at least slightly defensible. Together, it's nothing more than greed and selfishness. Throughout my life I have found that the more the priests and alchemists wish to keep something secret - thereby maintaining their 'priesthood' - the more I am motivated to learn the "magic" myself and reveal the "man behind the curtain". My experience has been that there's a darn-sight less "magic" than the 'masses' are lead to believe, and that true experts, (of which there are precious few), aren't threatened by passing their knowledge on.

Looks to me like the best course is to 'dive right in'.

You can be sure that I won't be hiding anything I find or figure out... I have no interest in "the priesthood".

Paul
 
Paul,

Michael Hagstrom- 707-544-4832, in California.
John Witt- 406-323-2431, in Montana.

Both advertise in Rifle magazine as doing color case hardening.

Maybe they can assist.

Justin
 
I've talked with my uncle a bit on this subject as he's fiddled with color case hardening in the past and one thing I remember is him packing the parts in the airtight crucible, firing it for a certain amount of time, and when ready, the part was quenched in water that had a good volume of water bubbling up from the bottom. He just opened the lid and dumped the contents into the water. He had a screen halfway down. He told me the colors came from the air bubbles washing up and around the parts. Once he used a perforated metal sheet to stop the parts and he ended up with a perfect pattern of that sheet on one side of his parts, so after that he used a lighter wire screen/mesh. He also did tell me it took quite a bit of dinking around to get the results he was looking for.

As an alternative, he was able to recreate those same colors he was striving for by wetting the part with water and blotting cold blue on it with a crumpled rag. Took a little playing around with that too, but he was very happy with the results. I would imagine if one could get results with cold blue, they could clear coat over it with duracoat clear or something to provide a little more durability.

That's all I remember, but it was first hand knowledge from someone who had done it.
 
Butch Lambert - Wow! That's impressive. The WHOLE action case colored. I was only interested in the receiver. I do note however, that it was an "early" milsurp. That's consistent with what "Dave" suggested as a "good candidate". I also note that Turnbull did it. I guess you gotta "know somebody" to get Turnbull to do it. You might mention that in that thread. Still, what a beautiful rifle.

Justin - I'll contact them. Thanks.

msalm - I appreciate the first-hand information. I would definitely be inclined toward a "chemical" method as you mention. I've had folks also recommend simply "taking a torch to the metal 'til you get the color you're seeking". That one spooks me a bit, but using some form of cold "blue" warrants investigation for sure.

Thanks,
Paul
 
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