Bore paste-- is it effective?

Jerry I do have some more abrasive compound I could try, I'm having one chamber right now, so when I get it back I'll try it. And Jim1K glad to hear you use Kroil also to lub the barrel, been using it for years!

Joe Salt
 
Jerry I do have some more abrasive compound I could try, I'm having one chamber right now, so when I get it back I'll try it. And Jim1K glad to hear you use Kroil also to lub the barrel, been using it for years!

Joe Salt

Joe, make sure you are using an aluminum oxide (white) lapping paste. Finish lapping in the 400-800 grit range.

For sure do not use an abrasive like valve lapping compounds (Clover brand, etc). Those are mostly silicon carbide (dirty green color) and are an embedding grit. Alox is soft enough it will not embed in steel where silicon carbide will embed.

And yes, by always use a light film lube after bore cleaning. Some of these new "car wash" products like Wipe-Out. TM solution, RB-17, etc. leave the metal very dry and susceptible to copper galling.
 
Joe, I started the use of Kroil/ Hoppies around 1996 in short range BR…… It flat works……. jim
 
I have a question......after you clean are you running an oil patch down the barrel to pre-lube before firing or are you firing from a dry bore?

I have been shooting from a dry bore. Oil patch is worth a try.
Other stuff, I have seen Kroil & Hoppes with 50/50 mix mentioned. Hoppes has more than one type of bore cleaner offered. I currently have a bottle of Hoppes Elite bore gel and cannot say I'm very impressed with it. With the 50/50 mix is the original old style Hoppes what is used? I have been using a product called Corrosion X which is supposed to be a bore cleaner and rust preventative. I soak a patch with it then apply the bore paste. It seems to get rid of the copper fouling faster than anything I have tried. My method is to wrap a cotton patch around a 6MM bore brush. Through trial and error I have developed an exact size for the patch to provide a good snug fit in the .270 bore.
The "double button" process with Douglas. Is it a fairly recent development? As I said previously, I bought my barrel without knowledge that it was recently manufactured. I have no idea of it's age. I think it's very accurate for a .270 sporting rifle and would surely buy another Douglas. My wallet is not up to the cost of the supreme bench rest grade barrels.
I need to look into a lapping kit as was mentioned. It would likely speed up this bore smoothing process.
 
Yes sir the old stuff mixed 50/50 with Kroil, with the use of two different size patches you just leave a film in the bor. One shot and clean till there is no copper …… jim
 
Just Ordered Lock-Ease

I just got four bottles of Lock-Ease online for 1.89 a bottle. I'm going to try it after cleaning during matches. I didn't realize so many were using it and other like substances after cleaning. Apparently it gets you back on your mark faster.
 
I just got four bottles of Lock-Ease online for 1.89 a bottle. I'm going to try it after cleaning during matches. I didn't realize so many were using it and other like substances after cleaning. Apparently it gets you back on your mark faster.

Good plan. Lock-Eez works probably better than most after-cleaning lubes. You will find a bottle of Lock-Eez on most loading tables at benchrest matches. Lock-Eez, available at NAPA auto parts stores, is colloidal graphite suspension in a light oil.

Most NAPA stores have two versions of Lock-Eez, one in a plastic bottle and one in an aerosol can. The product in the plastic bottle works much better than the aerosol.

Stan Buchtel did, and maybe still does, market a couple of colloidal graphite products that have better quality graphite (smaller particles). On one product the suspension media was a rapid drying liquid and was meant for pre-breakin treatment of new barrels. His other product, in a light oil similar to Lock-Eez, whose purpose is to treat the barrel bore after cleaning. These were available from Kelblys Inc.
 
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