Bedding recoil lug?

J

Jbordi

Guest
Would bedding the recoil lug w\o taping the sides of lug help be a bad idea? I know the lug would be a tight fit which may make disassembly difficult.

Thanks,

Jarrod
 
I recommend at least one layer on the front and two on the bottom. No problem with leaving the sides tight but knock the corners off with some sandpaper to get rid of the shaving edges and leave some relief in the bottom in case you do scrape some crud into the hole.

opinionsby


al
 
I have done it both ways, and have had trouble with shaving bedding compound when not taped. It has been 20 years since I did a lug bedding without tapeing the front, bottom, and sides.
 
I tape the front, bottom and sides also... some feel bedding the sides (at least one of the sides) may prevent the bullet from twisting the action as it travels down the barrel... I have not seen any difference in accuracy by not taping the sides... and I prefer the ease at which the metal removes and installs with a little clearance.
 
Thanks for all of the info. I wonder if the tight sides on the lug can create stress when things warm up? This is on a rem. 700 action with a aftermarket synthetic stock (if that matters).

Jarrod
 
Jbordi said:
Thanks for all of the info. I wonder if the tight sides on the lug can create stress when things warm up? This is on a rem. 700 action with a aftermarket synthetic stock (if that matters).

Jarrod
Click to expand...

I don't feel a problem with heat/stress.
al
 
I tried it both ways too. Found it too tight in the sides and difficult to remove action. All three sides get taped.
 
Last edited:
Recoil Lug Bedding

To function properly, and not cause any other problems, a recoil lug should be bedded only on the back side.......jackie
 
There are instances where leaving relief on the sides allows one to reassemble the rifle with the action slightly canted, or pressured to one side. Keeping the sides tight ensures absolute indexing.

al
 
I've got an aftermarket recoil lug that has tapered sides on one of my Rem 700 actioned live varmint rifles. I figured that I'd forget about taping the sides of it since it would just slip down into it's tapered hole. In the end I had to grind out the bedding compound and redo it with side clearance because it was doing something evil with side contact.

The only thing I could figure was that it was wedging itself and shifting. That doesn't do much for accuracy.
 
I use Holland type tapered lugs. I don't tape them, but try not to use an abundance of bedding compound around the lug when I bed the action to the stock. Most times with the tapered lug, the action will pull out of the bedding easily. I then go in with an end mill and remove the excess bedding on the sides front and bottom of the lug. I tried to get Dave Kiff to build me a recoil lug that was .020" over the standard lug in all dimensions to use for bedding, but I just wound up with a standard lug that was .270" thick instead of .250". It would still be a good idea. I may wind up making one to use for bedding, then switch to the standard one to assemble the rifle. That way it would have .020 clearance all around the lug with full contact at the rear of the lug.
 
I've done them both ways and have some very fine shooting rifles ----
done both ways.....

Currently I'm more inclined to bed the tapered lugs with no clearence. Works for me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top