G'day
Looking at that picture, and I must say that the bedding job looks excellent.It appears that you have only bedded the bottom half(I could be wrong it's hard to see) .I would have thought that if the relationship between the rings and scope was out, and needed correcting with bedding material, then the top half being left original would still have an effect on the scope as the screws are tightened.I suppose I am saying you have now created a set of rings where the top and bottom are different.
I therefore fail to see how this has totally fixed the original problem.
Please don't get me wrong I am not saying that what you have done is wrong I'm just asking the question if doing the bottom half only is the full answer???
There are people here with alot more knowledge than me, but for example when you get the cylinders in your engine rebored, you would not be happy to find they have only done half of each cylinder ,and left the other half original.
I'm not trying to start a fight just thinking this issue through.
Thankyou for your time
harro
Looking at that picture, and I must say that the bedding job looks excellent.It appears that you have only bedded the bottom half(I could be wrong it's hard to see) .I would have thought that if the relationship between the rings and scope was out, and needed correcting with bedding material, then the top half being left original would still have an effect on the scope as the screws are tightened.I suppose I am saying you have now created a set of rings where the top and bottom are different.
I therefore fail to see how this has totally fixed the original problem.
Please don't get me wrong I am not saying that what you have done is wrong I'm just asking the question if doing the bottom half only is the full answer???
There are people here with alot more knowledge than me, but for example when you get the cylinders in your engine rebored, you would not be happy to find they have only done half of each cylinder ,and left the other half original.
I'm not trying to start a fight just thinking this issue through.
Thankyou for your time
harro
Bob Kingsbury
New member
Bedding the top half is always an option, however , given a thin ring which is quite flexible and attached on both ends with screws
its not always neccessary. They will to a large degree conform under very light tension. The bottom half is the foundation and
fixed in allignment to the receiver( true or not) this is where small allignment issues get important.
its not always neccessary. They will to a large degree conform under very light tension. The bottom half is the foundation and
fixed in allignment to the receiver( true or not) this is where small allignment issues get important.
Vern,yes your right about Tony's book i have a copy and enjoy it very much,only that on some point's i need more step by step guidens,that not shore if one waxes the scopes beds and then pops it out ,cleans off wax and puts the scope back on?
Or..... you can do it like I just did on an overblown 338 that's generating like 60ftlb recoil energy, degrease everything TWICE with brake cleaner, swab with MEK and JB Weld the scope into the rings with no release agent.
SO FAR the scope hasn't slipped.
al
Boyd Allen
Active member
For factory actions, that show an initial lapping bar track that indicates very bad ring alignment, I think that lapped rings are a great improvement, however there can be no doubt that bedding is the best of all possible solutions. One other thing should be mentioned, regardless of what method is used, attention should be paid to the interior parting edges and shoulders, unless you like ring marks.