Barrel torque
- Thread starter ArtinNC
- Start date
FBecigneul
Member
Varies by manufacturer; Kelbly I believe says 80 foot pounds.
jackie schmidt
New member
One thing for sure, if it isn’t tight enough, it won’t shoot.
75/80 fit pounds should be fine
75/80 fit pounds should be fine
dmwphoto
New member
this should be perfect
I have a barrel on a XP100 rifle that I was going to put a different barrel on for a grandkid , But I can't get the barrel off , NOT ever with a 20" breaker bar . I have rear entry action wrench and I'm afraid I'l destroy the action taking the barrel off. The gun shoots shoots pretty good as is but he wants a different caliber.
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Just asking, how much is enough?
If you look at the torque values for a grade 5 bolt and 1 1/16 x 18 you get 900 ft lb dry and 676 lubed, just for a reference. Granted this is not a nut and a bolt but we are talking values 10-15% of what they would stand. What is the danger of 150 ft. lb. of torque on a barrel/receiver joint? I take mine to 120 ft. lbs and am not aware that there is any problem. Is there something I am missing here? No peeing match please, I am just asking cause I don't know. Thanks, Red
If you look at the torque values for a grade 5 bolt and 1 1/16 x 18 you get 900 ft lb dry and 676 lubed, just for a reference. Granted this is not a nut and a bolt but we are talking values 10-15% of what they would stand. What is the danger of 150 ft. lb. of torque on a barrel/receiver joint? I take mine to 120 ft. lbs and am not aware that there is any problem. Is there something I am missing here? No peeing match please, I am just asking cause I don't know. Thanks, Red
Jerry W
Jerry Wick
Try heating the barrel tenon area with a heat gun before removing. When I removed the barrel from my old XP100 there was a lot of Locktite or some such compound in the threads. The heat should soften it enough to allow the barrel to turn.
RL Weikart
Member
Barrel Torque
I am quoting from the Rifle Accuracy book by the good Mister Tony Boyer on page 185 where he recommends tightening the action to approximately 50 ft-lbs of torque and suggesting the use of Copper Anti-Seize. But again what does he know.
I am quoting from the Rifle Accuracy book by the good Mister Tony Boyer on page 185 where he recommends tightening the action to approximately 50 ft-lbs of torque and suggesting the use of Copper Anti-Seize. But again what does he know.
A lot of the figures being quoted here are for a specific cartridge, the 6PPC. The OP doesn't specify a cartridge.
50lb is probably sufficient for a 1.250 shank 6PPC, it is most assuredly NOT ENOUGH for say a 300WSM or something else with a much larger recoil impulse and much more bolt thrust than the 6PPC can possibly generate.
Answering the question as stated is like asking an old racer "what size jets to use in a Holley"
Now, for those folks who're having trouble with Rem700 (and Weatherby, and Tikka etc) using a rear entry action wrench...... this one is simple...... DITCH the rear entry wrench! There are wrenches made for this purpose, Wheeler and Brownell's to name a couple. A doller-two-ninety-nine ChiCom wrench set will get most the bolts-n-nutz off your Corolla but if you gonna' work on a log truck or a 'dozer you'se best get some bigger wrenches. Factory barrels are moderately tight but will spin off easily using a proper wrench. Go look at the Larry Potterfield videos from Midway to see the wrenches and some techniques but IGNORE the part where he starts banging with a hammer..... Hammers are for poundering and breaking things. Instead, use the advised outside wrenches and vises and a 3-4ft hunk of lightweight tailpipe for a cheater hannle. The things will ooze apart easy as pie
50lb is probably sufficient for a 1.250 shank 6PPC, it is most assuredly NOT ENOUGH for say a 300WSM or something else with a much larger recoil impulse and much more bolt thrust than the 6PPC can possibly generate.
Answering the question as stated is like asking an old racer "what size jets to use in a Holley"
Now, for those folks who're having trouble with Rem700 (and Weatherby, and Tikka etc) using a rear entry action wrench...... this one is simple...... DITCH the rear entry wrench! There are wrenches made for this purpose, Wheeler and Brownell's to name a couple. A doller-two-ninety-nine ChiCom wrench set will get most the bolts-n-nutz off your Corolla but if you gonna' work on a log truck or a 'dozer you'se best get some bigger wrenches. Factory barrels are moderately tight but will spin off easily using a proper wrench. Go look at the Larry Potterfield videos from Midway to see the wrenches and some techniques but IGNORE the part where he starts banging with a hammer..... Hammers are for poundering and breaking things. Instead, use the advised outside wrenches and vises and a 3-4ft hunk of lightweight tailpipe for a cheater hannle. The things will ooze apart easy as pie
Boyd Allen
Active member
If you click on the link, and scroll down a bit, you will see a couple of pictures of the correct tools for removing a stubborn factory barrel from a Remington action. Even with these tools, there can be problems. A friend has learned to use a parting tool on the lug, splitting it, for the worst cases.
https://ultimatereloader.com/2018/1...build-p4-muzzle-threading-and-barrel-install/
https://ultimatereloader.com/2018/1...build-p4-muzzle-threading-and-barrel-install/
as AL points out different torque for different bbl dia and cartridge.
we put a 6ppc on at 75 and almost could not get it off 3 months latter.
case of well cut threads and a square face.
my 300 wsm is 125, my 300 wm was 150, 150 on my 338 edge
but 50 only works on small lite stuff
we put a 6ppc on at 75 and almost could not get it off 3 months latter.
case of well cut threads and a square face.
my 300 wsm is 125, my 300 wm was 150, 150 on my 338 edge
but 50 only works on small lite stuff
LOL!!
Just don't pay too much attention to what the ultimate reloader guy SAYS, look at the pictures and you'll be OK. This is the guy who wasted hunnerds of collective hours in this continuum Gordying in a barrel in a 3-jaw AFTER interviewing the man! He's all jacked up and earnest but his understanding of the world around him is rudimentary at best... to illustrate this, note that his home page photo refers to his crowning success, his "review of,"...his "ratings" if various reloading presses.
SERIOUSLY???
Dude don't know "rating" from hisass... he couldn't "rate" nor assess nor test the efficacy of various brands of pliers.... Nor could he reload a straight round if his life depended on it.......but he has money and accesses good tools from good folks.
And he's a wikkid nice guy with a wikkid nice place.
Boyd, if your buddy is still parting, his setup is inadequate.
OK!!! Another innernet bet! Open to One-And-All!!!
You send me your tight, your poor, your troubled barrels yearning to break free and I'll VIDEOTAPE myself removing them easily and unmarked for 100 bucks on my youtube channel...... You see me have to fight with or part one, I'll pay you 500 for your trouble
and even use your name on youtube as one who proved silly ol' alinwa wrong.sounds like a win all-round!
ya got's that one backwards baas..... recoil impulse, bolt thrust and radial or hoop stress WSM>WM
well i actually just backed up from my early numbers.
the 300 wm was early and i THINK 150 was more than enough...so only did 125 on the wsm. still think it is ok.
yes ??
the 300 wm was early and i THINK 150 was more than enough...so only did 125 on the wsm. still think it is ok.
yes ??
THIS part....
HOKAyyyyy, let's examine this statement for a bit..... taking it at face value. If you "almost could not get it off" then it must have tightened since you easily installed it at 75ftlb.
right??
I submit that this is TRUE, and that the barrel tightened up. I've put many a barrel on hand-tight and later it's taken wrenching effort to remove. I've slipped and scarred barrels this way before cuz too lazy to do it up right in the vise w/wrench....so I think this PPC bbl tightened up.
For it to tighten up it must MOVE...
right??
Now, I could go on and on here but I've been accused me, of late, of horseflogging, pedagoguing and pernicious, persistent pettifogging
so
I
won't
I stick with 150 cuz "smarter people than me" and all that jazz.....
That said, I build lightweight 338's with huge phallic knobs present at the end of limber buggy-whip barrels and these bad boys flop like a trout on the tar'droad, and for almost as long....hence my predilection for, nay obsession with 1.350 shankage.
I'm neither very experienced at barrel changing nor an expert in metallurgy, but I talked to Kelby regarding torquing the barrel for a Panda action, and told 100ft LBS.
However, I can read, and Kelby has instructions for torquing his barrels. The instructions say 100 Ft LBS, and use bearing grease. It also says not to use anti-seize.
The fact it says not use anti-seize is the reason I called. I work with stainless a lot and it sounded odd to not use it.
I'll take his word.
However, I can read, and Kelby has instructions for torquing his barrels. The instructions say 100 Ft LBS, and use bearing grease. It also says not to use anti-seize.
The fact it says not use anti-seize is the reason I called. I work with stainless a lot and it sounded odd to not use it.
I'll take his word.