Barrel Block ?

H

Hombre0321

New member
Guys I am wondering just how does a Barrel Block work, and I mean this in the basic form? What are the mechanic's of doing this?

At the risk of appearing completely ignorant of this way of building a rifle I would really like to know about this.

Roland
 
It clamps around the chamber area of the barrel in lieu of a recoil lug, the action then hangs off the back of the barrel, freefloating.
 
Al, Let me see if I have this right. The stock needs more of a relief cut for the action than a true inletting, Right? The barrel channel is inletted the same, with the exception of a place to mount the Block, Right? The block itself is what holds stock and action, barrel together, Right?

Thanks Roland
 
If I'm understanding you right, yes.....altho NO the block doesn't hold the barrel and action together.

The stock is generally inletted with a big rectangular hole or 'footprint' for the bedding block apparatus and yes, it's most often as wide as or wider than the action proper. But, bedding blocks come in all sorts of configurations....pretty much all of which hang the action and replace the two or three-point bedding with a single block.
 
I just didn't make myself clear. I do understand that the barrel will screw into the action just like before, then the barrel block is put into place around the barrel and butts up to the receiver, something like the recoil lug would do if it were there. Then to Barrel Block itself is bolted to the stock, and this is the attachment for the action, barrel block and barrel assembly to the stock. Instead of the action bolts. Did I get that right?

Roland
 
Hombre0321 There are blocks that clamp the barrel and some that are glued to the barrel, I have the ones that glue in. But they need set screws to line them up so they track right when put in the stock. I even have one on my LG. that is in an NBR-Stock, the block is made of Aluminum and six inches long and two inches high. I had the rifle rechambered and it is showing promise I shot 7.5 inches with it at 1000 yards in the shoot off and that was 10 shot in the wind. Like Al said not against the action, both barrel and action float.

Joe Salt
 
Barrel blocks come in several sizes, colors, and styles. In almost all cases, the barrel is locked into the block with the use of bolts. In almost all cases, the block acts as a recoil lug as it is set in an inlet in the stock that fits the bottom block exactly. In all cases the action (and the trigger) are free floated behind the block and the barrel is free floated in front of the block. In all cases this relieves the action of the weight of the barrel. The action and trigger weigh less than the weight of the barrel on the action when only the action was glued or screwed to the action. This allows the use of a heavier barrel as in long range rifles. Since the barrel is held in a block and the heaviest part of the barrel is now supported, there are some who think the tuning nodes are longer. They are definitely changed.
 
STOOL You're right on top of things, You should have been our President you don't miss a thing! Good One.

Joe Salt
 
Here is a pic of my barrel block 6PPC LV gun.

This stock has an "H" insert in the stock that has four individually adjustable points, then ring clamps that go over top.

HovisScoville1 crop.jpg
 
HovisKM said:
Here is a pic of my barrel block 6PPC LV gun.

This stock has an "H" insert in the stock that has four individually adjustable points, then ring clamps that go over top.

HovisView attachment 14856
Click to expand...

Kevin, is that somewhat disengaged, ie lifted, or is it tightened down ready to shoot? It looks as though you've got it set up with nearly 2/3 of the barrel riding above the line of the forend.....true?
 
Hombre, have a look at the True-flite (New Zealand) barrel-block stocks. I've built a couple of rifles on these.

The whole stock is CNC'd from aluminium so they are too heavy for a short range benchgun but good for 600/1000 yd BR or an F Open rifle.

All the work is done, just turn a parallel section of barrel to 29.9mm over a six-inch length and do up the eight clamp screws. With a 30 inch barrel, you're only 'swinging' 23in. of floating barrel. They will take a Barnard P action - or smaller - i.e. Remmy 700

Vince (UK)
 
more dumb questions

Has anyone using barrel blocks tried threading the O.D. of the barrel and the I.D. of the block? The barrel would then have a face on it like it was butting to a recoil lug.
What is the clamping force required to hold the barrel stable to a clamp in type block? Would it be enough to influence the bore diameter?

ATimmons
 
Al,

Francis is right. It's all ready to shoot.

On this type of block, torque is a little trial and error. You don't want the barrel to slip but you can distort the bore. With that said, I have used torque from 35 inch pounds to over 80 inch pounds. Above 50 inch pounds you can feel where the clamps are while pushing a patch down the bore. Does it seem to effect accuracy....no.

On my Powell railgun, it loves 80 inch pounds and you can not feel any restrictions. Different type of block.

Hovis
 
VinceB said:
Hombre, have a look at the True-flite (New Zealand) barrel-block stocks. I've built a couple of rifles on these.

The whole stock is CNC'd from aluminium so they are too heavy for a short range benchgun but good for 600/1000 yd BR or an F Open rifle.

All the work is done, just turn a parallel section of barrel to 29.9mm over a six-inch length and do up the eight clamp screws. With a 30 inch barrel, you're only 'swinging' 23in. of floating barrel. They will take a Barnard P action - or smaller - i.e. Remmy 700

Vince (UK)
Click to expand...

I was able to find there web-site Vince. But no information about this stock. Would you know of another resource for information?

I also want to thank everyone for there input. I believe I have a basic understanding of this now, but it is that basic. I would like to give this a try and maybe as I gather information the correct path will become a little more clear.

I do have another question however. I would want this to be a switch barreled rifle or at the minimum have to ability to change barrels quickly, or maybe easily would be more correct wording. Will I have to have a different Block for each barrel? I do not believe I would go with the Glue in system for this reason.

Roland
 
I would do either, have it built or I have no problem buying a rifle. It would have to be the right one for me, but that would be cool.

Why do you ask? Know about something out there Paul?

Roland
 
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