anyone rechamber a new Rem700 bbl?

A

alinwa

oft dis'd member
I just took the barrel off a never-fired 700 SPS, CM barrel,
hoping to rechamber it into a FF barrel for a prototyping
project. It's finished in a tough black, maybe a nitride of
some sort???

It came off terrible, I cut a relief groove. It cut terrible.

I cleaned up and extended the tenon, it cut terrible.

It just looks sticky, surface pulled, chatter, silver chips.

I tried a peck with the reamer and it didn't hook up.

Anyone ever messed with this steel? It's obviously
been done with carbide tooling at high speed, I'm
using HSS and lower speeds... should I just quit??
I'd hate to wreck a good HSS reamer from ignorance.

al
 
Al

Do you know what grade of steel this is?
are your tools on C/L and sharp?
What are you using for cutting oil?
 
alinwa said:
Steve,

-no
-yes
-Do Drill
Click to expand...

Okay another couple questions can you shave your fingernail with the tools?

Do Drill I am not familiar with this stuff. is it a oil or is it like tap magic a runny liquid like water or paste?

Have any sulfur based cutting oil?

I know for instance 4140 and 4340 4130 materials like that, look like crap if cut with HSS Running improper speeds and feeds

What surface speed were you turning it?
What kind of feed per revolution?
what kind of tool radius if any used on turning tools?
what kind of tool relief positive or negative rakes?
honed cutting edges?

From you description of the original post it sounds like it was tearing rather than cutting several factors can lead to these issues
meaning a surface speed issue or dull tools or clearance or lack of lubrication or improper lubrication.
 
Steve_Webb said:
Okay another couple questions can you shave your fingernail with the tools?

Do Drill I am not familiar with this stuff. is it a oil or is it like tap magic a runny liquid like water or paste?

Have any sulfur based cutting oil?

I know for instance 4140 and 4340 4130 materials like that, look like crap if cut with HSS Running improper speeds and feeds

What surface speed were you turning it?
What kind of feed per revolution?
what kind of tool radius if any used on turning tools?
what kind of tool relief positive or negative rakes?
honed cutting edges?

From you description of the original post it sounds like it was tearing rather than cutting several factors can lead to these issues
meaning a surface speed issue or dull tools or clearance or lack of lubrication or improper lubrication.
Click to expand...

-yes
-DoDrill is viscous like Ridgid
-sulphur-based I think
-about 85sfpm
-feedrate, by hand, just cleaning up the tenon and relief groove
-no radius, good relief and approach angles and honed edges, Arkansas slipstone w/ATF for oil, prox 600 grit

DoDrill is a Brownell's product, best cutting oil I've found.


I'm going back down later, I'll start from scratch and make sure I didn't do something stupid...... like forgetting to tighten the quick-change or toolbit screw or something.

Thanks
al
 
over crowding can create the tearing and gaulding also
 
As an aside...I recently ran almost out of cutting fluid, and had to make something up. I mixed approx 50/50 Rigid Dark fluid with some GM synthetic
transfer case fluid, and a about 3-4 ounces of one o f the high viscosity, clear tapping fluids that I had around the shop. The stuff is great. I've never seen anything better. Sometimes you just luck into something that works. It made about a quart. The tranfer case fluid ain't cheap, but it works so well, I may not be able to live without it any more. The gm fluid is the blue Auto-Trac II fluid -GM Part No. 12378508 -Mike
 
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Two things on those hammer forged barrels;

1-use sharp, lipped, HSS or HSSCo, not carbide unless it is diamond wheel lipped.

2-make sure you have sufficient wall thickness in the chamber area.


Best cutting fluid for hammer-forged 4140 is something like Rigid pipe threading oil for Stainless.
 
Thank You Mike and Jerry!

I will be trying the Ho'Made cutting brew......

Jerry, I'm lengthening an existing chamber just a little and "fat-butting" it and I do have dark Rigid oil as well as the DoDrill mixtures....and I've 30-40 Cobalt blanks.


Incidentally I'd never worked on a factory barrel before.... The tenon isn't coaxial with either the bore or the chamber and the chamber is offset from the bore about a half-thou but it does line up within about .001/inch. I'd like to pre-bore the chamber just to get rid of the high side but just can't justify the hassle of setting up the steady for a FF chamber......

I'ma' just punch it out :)

al
 
Al,

Yrs ago, I fitted a blued 700 heavy barrel in 222 to a martini action & didn't notice anything different about threading or chambering it. In the scrap pile is a 243 heavy barrel (blued) that I picked up in a trade, but I haven't gotten around to making it a 6BR yet.

Is your barrel a flat black one they put on the cheap 700's? The newer flat black barrels may be different.

regards,
Ron
 
RJM said:
Al,

Yrs ago, I fitted a blued 700 heavy barrel in 222 to a martini action & didn't notice anything different about threading or chambering it. In the scrap pile is a 243 heavy barrel (blued) that I picked up in a trade, but I haven't gotten around to making it a 6BR yet.

Is your barrel a flat black one they put on the cheap 700's? The newer flat black barrels may be different.

regards,
Ron
Click to expand...

Yes, flat black.

al
 
OK..... first of all, thanks for alla' you'se who helped. I found the problem, it was us.

More specifically, it was me.

This stuff does cut funky, kinda; like cast iron but not THAT bad..... the bad was mine. I didn't tighten the outboard spider screws. I mean, I DIDN'T TIGHTEN THEM, like I finger-tightened them when I was dialing the barrel in but I never went back and snugged them up. When I went 'round and checked the setup the spider screws were backed out to loose....

Sorry to have wasted your time, next step is to try get that reamer to hook up clean, the tenon is all copacetic. It cleaned right up.


I'm not as scared of it now.

al
 
I had a chance to put my bore scope in 2 of the recent flat black finished 700 ADL varmint rifles. the bores looked very nice for factory barrels. They must machine OK to get a smooth bore.

At the same time, we looked at 2 Savage single shots - one a right/left & the other a dual port. Neither of these were as smooth as the 700's, but the proof is in the shooting.
Regards,
Ron
 
RJM said:
I had a chance to put my bore scope in 2 of the recent flat black finished 700 ADL varmint rifles. the bores looked very nice for factory barrels. They must machine OK to get a smooth bore.

At the same time, we looked at 2 Savage single shots - one a right/left & the other a dual port. Neither of these were as smooth as the 700's, but the proof is in the shooting.
Regards,
Ron
Click to expand...

I agree that the new Remington barrels "look" better than they use to, inside.
 
mwezell said:
I agree that the new Remington barrels "look" better than they use to, inside.
Click to expand...

Makes me wonder if Remington is still hammer forging its latest barrels on to chamber/bore mandrels like they have in the distant past.
 
Remington barrels are not what they were. We've run into a few that didn't shoot worth a darn.

Bob
 
unioncreek said:
Remington barrels are not what they were. We've run into a few that didn't shoot worth a darn.

Bob
Click to expand...

And I'm in the camp that's amazed at how well they shoot! :) And particularly how well they shoot and clean compared to older ones.....
 
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