There, that title usualy brings em in!!!
Here is my delema. I have two Time Precision Supertuners. Both are drilled to fit a Rem varment contour bbl (.820). I have had both tuners on several different guns with no issues at all. My new 1K dasher has a 1K HV countour bbl....much thicker than the rem Varment countour. I also have a break installed on the new dasher. I had my smith make me a threaded cap with a .820 OD....just screw off the break and install the cap. It is exactly the same OD as both of the remmys I have. The problem....both tuners blow off of the cap after only a few shots. I cranked the livving $&&*%^ out of the ellen screws, but I still end up walking 10 yards down range to retrieve the tuner!! The only explenation I can think of that the crome molly factory bbl was a "rough" blue (not a shiny blue like on some guns). The other bbl was a SS Brux, and it was bead blasted, which makes the surface rougher than than the "shiny" SS cap. The tuner simply had a rougher serface to "grab". This is simply my opinion.
I was going to simply smear a bunch of windshield urithane on the cap, screw the tuner on, and it will be there....FOREVER!!!. But I don't want to make this a perminant, and messy, affair.
Would locktight or JB weld work. I would think that if I wanted to remove the tuner I could simply unscrew the thing and add some heat...or is this not how locktight and JB work?
My plan was to try and tune my FF loads...just to see. Later I was going to compare my conventional match loads with a "tuned" load.
Thanks,
Tod
Here is my delema. I have two Time Precision Supertuners. Both are drilled to fit a Rem varment contour bbl (.820). I have had both tuners on several different guns with no issues at all. My new 1K dasher has a 1K HV countour bbl....much thicker than the rem Varment countour. I also have a break installed on the new dasher. I had my smith make me a threaded cap with a .820 OD....just screw off the break and install the cap. It is exactly the same OD as both of the remmys I have. The problem....both tuners blow off of the cap after only a few shots. I cranked the livving $&&*%^ out of the ellen screws, but I still end up walking 10 yards down range to retrieve the tuner!! The only explenation I can think of that the crome molly factory bbl was a "rough" blue (not a shiny blue like on some guns). The other bbl was a SS Brux, and it was bead blasted, which makes the surface rougher than than the "shiny" SS cap. The tuner simply had a rougher serface to "grab". This is simply my opinion.
I was going to simply smear a bunch of windshield urithane on the cap, screw the tuner on, and it will be there....FOREVER!!!. But I don't want to make this a perminant, and messy, affair.
Would locktight or JB weld work. I would think that if I wanted to remove the tuner I could simply unscrew the thing and add some heat...or is this not how locktight and JB work?
My plan was to try and tune my FF loads...just to see. Later I was going to compare my conventional match loads with a "tuned" load.
Thanks,
Tod