After annealing. Then what??

skeetlee said:
Anyway i tried the steel wool thing and it seemed to help a bit. I took pieces of 0000 steel wool and spun them onto a brass brush that was chucked in to my drill, then went to work. Like i said it helped but it didnt cure the stickiness completely. I am also a little concerned about how much material the steel wool is removing. I miked a few cases before i brushed and then after and there were a few 10ths difference after completion. I am thinking this is the crud but could it also be brass?
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I don't think you're removing much brass. One easy test would be, clean one, then measure. Now, do about the equivalent of 30 cleanings and re-measure. If that didn't remove enough for you to worry about, then it's not brass. My guess is, it's not brass...
 
I've started cleaning inside the necks, before and after annealing, with a nylon brush with a little steel wool wrapped into it.

The brass brushes seem to really scuff up the inside of the neck and causes bullet seating to be rough and hard. Too much friction.
 
There remains a myth that you have to "quench" cases that have been annealed or the heat will migrate to and soften the bases. This is a myth - there is no need to put a case in water after annealing it PERIOD. Once the heat is removed, the case neck temperature drops to the pint that there is not enough heat remaing ot migrate and soften the bases. Don't believe me, rad this referenced article http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

As to sticky seating, it is due to the carbon/powder residue/stuff inside the neck being burned when the case is annealed AND the necks being undersize. Use a cleaning brush AFTER annealing and run it in and back out. If the cse has been sized properly with .002"-.003" neck tension you will have no problems seating your bullets.

A gentleman I have shot with (Henry Childs) is a national level shooter has done extensive tests concerning the force needed to have the bullet "pulled" put of the case upon firing. He found that if he uses a very light coat of Imperial Sizing Wax on a nylon bore brush and coats the inside of the neck with this brush, the seating force and "pulling" force is reduced and his accuracy improved. I have done this and agree.

George
 
My best buddy gave me a can of spray on moly. I havent messed with it yet though. I will use these cases to foul the barrel and after one shot all should be fine. I see were i went wrong, so lesson learned. Thanks fellas! Lee
 
I use a bronze brush that is worn out and to loose to scrub barrel with and wrap lots of steel wool around (4 ought). I polish the inside of neck to a mirror finish. After 12 firings i see no difference in neck thickness, mike says 13.5 thous just like when they were turned. I like a good grip on my bullets as long as they are all the same. Matt Kline
 
Henry Childs is also a personal friend of mine and has been for the past ten years...........having stayed at my home and traveled with his to and from Quantico for the nationals. If Henry says it works? You can bet your bippy he has done extensive scientific testing.
Rich De
 
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