Acraglass release agent?

L

Leeroy

Machinest / Gunsmith
G'day All

I'm doing some bedding work on a blued action and while i have used Acraglass Gell a few times before i'm having a problem with the release agent.

I have noticed that the release agent seems to "Bead" up on the blued surface. It has done this on every bed job i have done but not as bad as this time. It just wont wet the surface at all. I have cleaned the surface with a few different things like White spirit, accetone, i even tried some windex but no good..
Any sudgestions?

And what can i use to clean the brush after i have applied the stuff? I have tried White spirit, accetone, thinners, mineral terps and nothing will clean this stuff off..

Cheers
Leeroy
 
Never had your "beading up" problem, but the release agent thins out OK with 91% isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) when it gets old and thick. Give that a try.
 
Throw that release agent in the $hit can and get a can of Johnson's pastee wax. If that is not available, get some vegetable spray or and auto wax.
 
I switched from the stuff Brownell's supplies to plain old floor paste wax and have never regretted it.

If the brush is still wet you can wash it out with warm water and soap...
 
I gave up on that stuff decades ago and use Johnson's paste wax for all bedding materials. The only problem with paste wax is once its applied and buffed, you really can't see it on the metal, so I do the process three times to insure I don't have a "glue in." Also, don't use a rag with any solvent on it for buffing, or you might just remove your release agent.
The release agent that comes with Acraglass seems to come off in the bedding and probably should be cleaned off with solvent or it looks like the bedding job has the mange. It also has some thickness to it, where the paste wax gives a skin tight bedding fit every time.
 
Another vote for Johnson's Paste Wax - easy to apply, leaves a very nice finish on the bedding, doesn't need to be removed from the metal after the bedding job is finished. Also useful for many other things around the shop.
 
Viva Johnson's Paste Wax

The first wax I used was Birchwood Casey Stock wax, which works good, and then I found a huge can of Johnsons at a garage sale for a $1.00. The Johnson's is great stuff, and I have a lifetime supply! The blue stuff from Brownells never gets used anymore.
 
KIWI Shoe Polish

is my vote. Neutral color, and doesn't take up much space on the bench.
BV
 
Kleenbore RustGuardit is the best that I have used. You won't accidentally wipe it off and nothing sticks to it. Sprays on like PAM but it is not oily or greasy. A better product for a release agent.
 
Thanks

Thansk for all the input guys.
I didn't solve the "Beading" problem but it seems that if you put on enough coats of the stuff you get good coverage.. :) The bed job went well and the action poped out no problem..
I might try some of the other methods instead of the "Blue goop" in the future..

Thanks again..:D

Leeroy
 
Brownells markets a realease agent in a spray can that works fine. I have also used Hornady One Shot Case Lube in an aerosol can. It also works very well.

Clemson
 
I use Redding Imperial die wax as release agent for Devcon.
I get some wax on my finger and I rub it on the metal.
I have that stuff on my finger often enough, anyway.

Epoxy must be at room temp with mixed, or it will not harden.
So I keep epoxy in the house.
I may prep the gun in the shop, but I do all the epoxy work in the house.
Johnson's wax has a solvent carrier that my wife can smell and complain about.
The Imperial Die wax works perfectly, has no oder, and is right there with the reloading equipment.
 
Kiwi shoe polish/wax.
Neutral. You can easily use it to fill areas you dont want to get glass into. Coat the screws too.
Hot water removes it all. Shop air removes the water, water displacing spray oil removes whats left.
 
release agent

Okay, so I use the KIWI neutral paste wax. No where have I seen the first statement on "how do you put it on?" With a rag, with a brush-like a paint brush,or toothbrush, use your fingers? How about a few ideas from you guys that seemingly use it with no problems. If you put it on with a brush, do you wipe it off with a brush, rag, or? How long do you wait for the kiwi to dry? I've glassed a few actions but have always used that nasty blue gunk too. The kiwi/johnsons sounds the way to go! Any instructions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your experience and replys.
GRT338
 
Clean the action scrupulously.

Lay the wax on with something that doesn't leave body fluids behind.

Polish off with a clean lint free old cloth until you can just see a smoky haze when you twist it under a light.
 
For paste floor wax or shoe polish

A toothbrush works well for getting into little nooks and crannies, a rag for big open areas. I usually give it two coats to be sure. Be sure to coat all the screws and screw holes too. I fill big holes or slots with modeling clay before waxing. Just cover everything with wax and then buff lightly with a rag.

If you bed in two or more steps be sure to completely remove any trace of release agent or wax from the last bedding before you put in the next layer. I wipe with solvent and then sand it carefully.

When finished I use mineral spirits to remove the wax from the metal.
 
I heat the masked off barreled action with a spotlight or heat lamp from about 15 " until it's warm to the touch. Then using a 4 x4 cotton patch and wood handle q-tips I apply the wax. Then wait ten minutes and buff with a cotton cloth. Done.

The result is a very thin coating which works well with any epoxy that I've used.

Glenn:D
 
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