Where's,
Before you get misled by the "Rem will shoot" idea let's put some things in perspective.........I agree wit' alf BTW, he told ya' good.
To actually get the rifle to shoot as accurately as a custom action will take some money, in fact it'll take enough money to buy a used custom action..........BUT!!! ..........and this is a big BUT!.........The Remington may shoot as ACCURATELY as a custom in theory, but it'll never shoot AS WELL! Pure ACCURACY is only part of the equation, the gun must also handle well. Trying to slick up a Rem so that it cycles like a custom will really ramp the price up. And trying to decipher whether the gun is trying to shoot or not is HARD!!! It's hard enough with the gun/bags on automatic let alone having to fiddle with the whole setup. With a custom rifle you can learn to shoot, with a customized Remington rifle you can chase your tail 'til the cows come home sometimes!
Here's the thing. A Rem will always be a fight in the bags...........I've just within the last year switched to shooting left-handed. After 35yrs of shooting from my right shoulder I'd developed a pretty fine presentation to the rifle.......OVER!!........ I'm now shooting from my left, I get a chance to re-learn all of the moves. I'm finding out all sorts of interesting things about human-to-gun-to-bag geometry. My BIGGEST fight right now is cycling the action without buggering my baggage. I have 5 Rem's and several others. The cocking effort on the Rem700 is just hideous after running a Borden or a BAT, I can't get over it. I'm fiddling with extensions and offsets for the Rem bolthandle.......I've completely reworked, polished and rehardened the cocking ramp...even tried lowering the pitch of the ramp as much as I dare. Polished firing pin body helps a lot......but I CANNOT get the 700's to within walking distance of a custom action. I CANNOT cycle a Rem700 action without rocking the rifle, especially with the little skinny hunter forearm......
Now, if you're doing the work yourself and you're willing to work for $3.00/hr, have at it.......but fah'GIDDABOUT all you've ever heard about just "lapping lugs" and "truing the face of the bolt". You've got to do EVERYTHING or nothing IMO.....
Remember, this is MY OPINION
formed from spending LOTS of money on Remingtons and Remington clones.....
--You've got to sleeve the action for rigidity. (Or choose to barrel block the rifle... if you do this, mount the scope on the barrel block)
--You've got to align bore it to give yourself a centerline to work with and then true the action face and lug abutments to this centerline.
--You've got to find or force a centerline on the bolt, install "Borden Bumps" or sleeves on the front and rear of the bolt and face it to centerline.
--You've got to face the lugs front and rear to this same centerline and reset your clearances
--You've got to polish the firing pin shaft and replace the spring. Probably have to rework the entire assembly.
--You've got to extend the bolt handle to gain leverage. I also rework the cocking ramp at this point, a labor of love, ain't NO easy way IMO. This is icky-picky stuff.
And NOW you get to the real stuff. You've got to re-time the entire system. Cocking/trigger timing, extraction timing, bolt lug clearance and bolt-handle without buggering the rotation of the lug seats.
After this is done you get to fiddle with the shroud until you get it to quit flinging shots..........or not......who knows.
And it still won't shoot like a custom.
And fah'GIDDABOUT those windy days when the playing field is "leveled in your favor a little".....It ain't leveled ONE BIT! The dude with the smooth shooter will always have that much less to worry about, that much more time to spend riding the wind.... competitive HBR rifle need be every bit as accurate as a PPC group gun.
All or nothing IMO
opinionsby
al