A couple of questions for rail gun shooters

Wilbur I have noticed a slight shift myself, seems there is more talk about Rail Guns and it's welcome news. I talked to Jay Young yesterday and he even said there's been an uptick in Rail Gun talk lately, which is good news and I'm excited to see clubs, shooters, and builders all moving in the same direction, advancing the Unlimited Rail Class.

Thanks Rich
 
skeetlee

If your barrel is shooting well, length is not important. On a rail, the barrel length would affect how it fits in the box/vehicle - not much else. If you can get it there and win, don't change anything.
 
Wilbur said:
What's going on these days concerning how you set the rail on the bench. Sticky feet, nail it down, or both depending on where you are?

Also, please mention how the rail has to be handled when using sticky feet.
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I have a Jerrell Mattingly built rail that weighs 85 lbs and stays absolutely put with sticky feet.
 
Rail Guns

I tried Months ago to spark some interest in a general Discussion on Rail Guns, with limited success. Do an advance search on this forum,there is some good information about Rail Guns provided by some Forum members.

I can say from previous experience shooting a Rail Gun this past weekend, never leave home without the Bolt to your Rail Gun Action. I borrowed a bolt from a same design action and made it through the 10 shot Agg. Kinda like traveling a considerable distance on a spare tire donut in the Family car. I wasn't impressed with the way my Rail Gun Shot.

I've used sticky feet and I've used a heavy hammer. Both methods seem to work OK. I've noticed that The sticky feet don't work too good on Bench tops that have craters like the surface of the Moon.


Glenn
 
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How rough can you handle a rail using sticky feet? Can you handle it the same or do you have to be careful or look every shot?

Should have asked this question to start with...folks shoot these things differently.
 
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Some time back, Butch Fisher told me about the setup that he had under his rail. He had gotten a hold of a piece of rubber (with internal cord) industrial belting, that was wider and longer than his rail's base. He made up a disk for each point, and milled recesses onto the belting for each of them , and then used the rail as a fixture to position the disks, while the glue that secured them dried. According to him, it worked pretty well.
 
When or what indications would a fella start see that would then lead him into playing with different torque settings on his block? Today my rail was shooting pretty small, but there was a definite pattern of side by side impact. the rail was shooting really flat, and I couldn't tune any vertical into the load. Like I say, the groups were small, but I felt that should have been able to tune the side by side stuff out. I didn't shoot for very long, as I have been busy building my new shop. I just needed a brake so I shot for 30 min. any ideas ?? Lee
 
Yep. I notice with the rail I have that the spring drive that controls right to left shifts, or unloads, when going from one direction to the other. turning the knob counter clock wise the springs loads up as the crosshairs move left. rotate the knob clockwise the crosshair jumps up as they move to the right. Ive shot good groups settling in both ways, so I don't think thats an issue, but maybe I will investigate a little further?? Other than that I cant think of anything. My scope is solid I know that for sure. Night force scope are legit to say the least!!
Normally when I see side by side impact, my first thought would be that my load is to hot. Not the case here. Last week when I was shooting the rail, I guess I noticed a little bit of what I am describing also. I didn't think all that much of it other than it was my tune. The rail shoots so consistent , meaning the point of impact and the size and shape of the groups change very little if any with slight to moderate load changes. Very little to no vertical, but that side by side impact" no paper showing" seems to be the norm. The dam thing is shooting 5 shots groups in the one's so maybe I am just over thinking the hole thing. Maybe this is all the barrel has, or will do? There is a part of me that thinks there is a reason, for this so ill pick it apart until I figure it out or go crazy in the process. LOL!! The consistency of the groups is what bothers me. If the rain hasn't washed the target out ill take a pic. Lee
 
There shouldn't be any way the rail can move up or down within itself when turning the windage knob. There could be (likely) a "level" problem which is pretty common and in most cases not worth the effort to fix. If it's a whole bunch of movement, you'll need to figure out how to fix it because it ain't every group that you can shoot 10 shots "as is". It shouldn't take you more than seconds to shoot 10 shots....and they only measure two of them.
 
Lee- my JJ rest does that when the tension on the side to side rails is either gummy with oil or too tight. Once you loosen whatever keeps it running smooth itll be too loose. Just study up on that part and concentrate on fixing it with spring plungers, springs, nylon tipped set screws whatever.
 
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