6mmbr brass prep

J

jawbreaker

Guest
I have heard or read many posts tha 6mm lapua brass does need any prep. Recently, my lots have been
Inconsistent ie flash holes and primer pockets. Are there any tools available to correct primer pockets and
Ream flash holes that work? Is it best to fire form first? Anybody out there think it is worth the effort?
Thanx,
Tom
 
jawbreaker said:
Is it best to fire form first?
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Yeah, that's what I do. Why? Because some guy said so. Don't *know* anything.

Anybody out there think it is worth the effort?
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Yes. Worst case, It doesn't hurt.

As for tooling, I use stuff from Dick Wright, no longer available. But I think any of the tooling available should work just fine. In lieu of other recommendations, what Sinclair offers is likely quite good. Or whatever of those K&M offers. Just places to look, I doubt one is better than the other.

I do like an adjustable primer pocket unifier. Lapua pockets are often a bit deeper than other brands, and some of the tools won't even touch the bottom. Be sure to stay within SAAMI. If you cut even a bit too much, you might need to lengthen your firing pin protrusion... Its all a system.
 
Funny you mention that Charles.............the thing about the primer pocket uniformer not reaching the bottom of the pockets on Lapua brass? I have two of those "Whitetail" (Dick Wright) carbide tools that I have been using for years. And yes, noticed the same thing.....they will not reach the bottom. They seem to hit just the outer edge. Lately I have been using the one from Sinclair where you can adjust the length. I set it to jusssssssssssst touch the bottom.
Rich De
 
Rich, Yeah, I use a K&M for large rifle pockets. It too is adjustable. May have to break down & get one for small primers, but for the .220 Russian cases, the Whitetail works, just.

BTW, anybody know, now that Ken has sold the business, whether or not K&M still make that tool?
 
Check out the Hart primer pocket tool .
Get the carbide version.

Glenn
 
I have the K&M. I sometimes also use it to clean the primer pockets. Last year I noticed that when I would use it to clean the pocket it was not cleaning the bottom completely.
I will probably adjust it this year.
 
UMM..it may be just me, but stay away from the flash holes!!!! Primer pockets, yes. Neck tern, if you need to. Trim to length, yes. I also sort mine by weight, but I shoot comp.
 
Tod what would your reasoning be behind telling him to leave the flash holes and primer pockets alone.
Most here are competition shooters including myself and most seem to agree about the primer pockets.
Just curious.
 
I don't see where I said anything about not doing primer pockets..in fact I said "Primer pockets, yes"

Now, tell me, what are you going to do with the flash holes? Make them bigger.....smaller? I don't have a clue what one would do with the flash holes. Now, on the cheap brass...read remington, win, ect.....I ALWAYS de-bur(sp) the flash holes...even on my hunting loads. Those brass have the flash holes "punched", where as the Lupua and Norma flash holes are drilled. The punching process leaves chunks of brass, or burs (sp) sicking up into the powder column. I have never seen a "bur" (sp) on a piece of Lapua or Norma brass.

Oh ya..I also champher (sp) the inside AND outside of every case. Now, I try to do every piece the same...ie...(by hand mind you) 4 turns on the inside, 4 turns on the outside, and one more on the inside again. Now, my peon brain seems to remember something written some where that this process has a BIG impact on accuracy. 40 degree vs 60 degree tooling and the exact amout ect..ect...ect... Not so sure about that one

Just my .02. And in most cases, it aint even worth that.:p

Thanks, Tod
 
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expiper said:
OBTW....Todd ,,,do you shoot comp....wink
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Oh ya, the comp comment...I forgot which fourm I was on...I though I was on the LR hunting website. A lot of the stuff I do I need to explain away by saying that I shoot comp..other wise i get some (vertual) blank stares...same with the "F" class crowd...I just get strainge looks when I start talking about sorting bullets and weighing brass..ect....
 
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Tod,

Those strange looks come from wondering how someone who took home the gold at the 2011 1K Nationals, can possibly spell that bad. ;)

Rod in Fargo
 
JawBreaker
10 years ago the Lapua 6BR brass was extremely strong and consistent.The brass today has varied quite a bit from the original brass in terms of quality and dimensions.
Two years ago the big rage was no turn necks.One advocate was claiming all sorts of expertise on this forum until he was told to measure some brass only to find out he had virtually no neck clearance at all.

In a nutshell fire your brass first then rework the primer pockets and flash holes.The reason you are doing this is the brass expands when you fire it and making everything uniform before that happens means all your hard work is now over-sized.

On the primer pockets get a Sinclair carbide uniforming tool that is NOT adjustable and don't use the brass that doesn't clean-up 100% for anything but practice.

On the flash holes Sinclair sells a reamer just for the small flash holes used on the 6BR case.When you use the tool you will quickly learn they may indeed punch all of there flash holes but they must use 10 different sized punches.Sometimes the tool falls right through the flash hole other times you need to force it just to get it started.Cull out any loose ones for practice only.

Consistency consistency consistency just remember those three words any time your reloading and all will go well in my humble opinion.
Lynn
 
Lynn said:
JawBreaker
10 years ago the Lapua 6BR brass was extremely strong and consistent.The brass today has varied quite a bit from the original brass in terms of quality and dimensions.
Two years ago the big rage was no turn necks.One advocate was claiming all sorts of expertise on this forum until he was told to measure some brass only to find out he had virtually no neck clearance at all.

In a nutshell fire your brass first then rework the primer pockets and flash holes.The reason you are doing this is the brass expands when you fire it and making everything uniform before that happens means all your hard work is now over-sized.

On the primer pockets get a Sinclair carbide uniforming tool that is NOT adjustable and don't use the brass that doesn't clean-up 100% for anything but practice.

On the flash holes Sinclair sells a reamer just for the small flash holes used on the 6BR case.When you use the tool you will quickly learn they may indeed punch all of there flash holes but they must use 10 different sized punches.Sometimes the tool falls right through the flash hole other times you need to force it just to get it started.Cull out any loose ones for practice only.

Consistency consistency consistency just remember those three words any time your reloading and all will go well in my humble opinion.
Lynn
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Lynn, sincerely, a very good post.

(Of course, in Lynn's opinion, I'm always wrong. What a conundrum!)

Regardless, a very good post, I learned something.

Edit:

I do disagree a bit with not using cases where you have to adjust the primer depth tool to clean up, as long as one stays comfortably within SAAMI specifications, and does all the cases to that same depth. But there are some risks/complications with that -- esp. if you're stuck using one brand of primer -- and any one who wants to avoid all the knowledge about interactions is best advised to do as you say.
 
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Lynn posted a pic the other day of a load workup........ I saw'r it with my own two eyes. You can't fake those groups and consecutive raggedy holes don't happen by accident.

Dude has paid some dues, doesn't matter what one may disagree with but Lynn goes out and TRIES IT, and Game Don't Lie.

I agree, good post


al
 
jawbreaker,
go here - http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/6mmbr/
and go here - http://www.accurateshooter.com/featured/6mmbr-loading-for-newbies/
These folks at Accurate Shooter spend their lives shooting 6BR guns, these are good solid instructions on what to do with 6BR Lapua brass and the cartridge in general, these are very experienced folks. I just completed prepping 100 Lapua 6BR pieces of brass and found the flash holes to be nearly perfect, haven't decided about the primer pockets yet. Do not enlarge the flash hole diameter, at least I wouldn't.
Just my opinion I could be wrong.
Dave T
 
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Lynn.

I guess I didn't know that about the flash holes on the Lupua brass. I was told many years ago that the flash holes were indeed drilled....I will need to do some measuring. I still do stand by my statement that I have never seen a bur in a piece of Norma or Lapua brass. Also, I have NEVER measured the diameter of a flash hole....not quite sure how I would go about it, but I sure will think about it.

Also if I took your advice on the "100 % cleanup" on my primer pockets, I would have had ZERO brass to work with, (ok, maybe not zero,..maybe a handfull)......300 Pieces of brass, and my Sinclare 6mm Lapua primer pocket tool didn't clean up one of them 100 percent...still doesn't and I am on my 3rd firing.

No wonder my Dasher shot like krap last year!!!

And your "consistancy, consistancy consistancy" statement....you forgot the fourth consistancy!!!! A truer statement has never been said!!!!!

Rod,

As far ax four mi speleng....I am net suer what the conect spellign fo "bur" is. Also, smo of my typoes ar becuse I spillde My Dew om ny kie bord and some ov theee kies are stinkinggggggggggg!!!

Al,

Your problem is that you don't understand my Canadian Dialect. :confused: We can work on that over supper at a few of the matches next summer. I think it is my turn to buy!!
 
I have NEVER measured the diameter of a flash hole....not quite sure how I would go about it, but I sure will think about it.
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Use the base end of small twist drills to measure. Within a few thousandths, the point is not to have a particuar size, but all the same size.

Sinclair makes a reamer that reams them to .062, but that's for the older PPC cases (where most of out depriming pins were larger than the flash hold size, i.e., under .060.) For all I know, the 6BR cases are over .0625. In that case, use the smallest drill that will just clean things up.
 
However, recent lots of Lapua 6BR brass have shown a few cases per box where there is a little flake of brass on the edge of the flash hole. You’ll want to pop this out. A Pin Vise with #53 or 19/32 bit works well for the job. If you do decide to actually ream the flash hole, use a K&M or Sinclair deburring tool for small primer holes–but be gentle, don’t ream the hole out. Double check the diameter of the cutter tip before reaming–some are oversize. To uniform the outside of the hole you can use the Sinclair 07-3000 outside PPC/BR flash hole reamer (right). This will ream the hole to about .064″ or so to fit a standard 1/16″ (.0625″) decapping pin.

Tod
Here is a piece of the link supplied by Dave Tooley.As you can see the brass has varied in its consistency over the last 12 years.
Many of us were shooting and winning with the 6BR's before that other website ever existed.It is nice to see that the moderator over there is still using our info.All of the best posters there were/are posters here so nothing gained especially with some of the newer posters.
I use pin gauges to measure my flash holes only because I worked in silicon valley for years and when the big aerospace/technology companies would fold you could get them for pennies.
If your primer pockets are not cleaning up the brass is already too deep.By resetting the cutter deeper you are only chasing your tail.Kevin Thomas needs to know that the pockets are getting too deep.I think he was the guy who changed the neck thickness issues after Robert Whitley cut copied and pasted my post here over on the other website.
If you use the Sinclair flash hole reamer like I described it is clear that the flash holes are either the wrong size in the wrong location or both.
Lynn
 
EdLongRange
Hidden in my last post was my reason for using the Sinclair flash hole reamer.
The reamer itself fits inside a guide that is primer pocket in size.If you put the tool in the primer pocket and drop the reamer down and it doesn't fit at all you can then use a pin gauge to check the flash holes size.If the size is correct the flash hole is not centered up in the primer pocket.
If you were to ream an off center hole you would create a big elongated flash hole.What I do is to look at the flash holes after reaming to make sure the entire depth is evenly cut.If you see uncut brass the hole is elongated so use it for practice.
I just did 450 pieces of the old cardboard box brass I got from TillRoot1 so my father will be ready for the nationals in April.I do one step at a time and cull out anything that isn't perfect.
Brass is still cheap,we only have one nationals a year and all your culls can be used on Squeaks or for practice.
That said does it really matter is the question that comes to mind.We only have one good wind free nationals about every 5 years out here so why show up unprepared?
Lynn
 
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