6 PPC from 220 Russian Lapua

nksmfamjp said:
So, yesterday, I had 2 in 10 that wouldn’t fire. I sized them just enough to close the bolt handle without force. I seated to where I was 0.001” shorter than the click from primary extraction.

It was cold at the range. I don’t think there is grease in the firing pin area, but maybe by the cocking piece...I’m checking that tonight. Firing pin protrusion looks 0.030” -0.040”, but I haven’t measured.

Other thoughts? I hit these primers 5-10 times before giving up. I hate loosing brass, but I won’t work on a hit primer. I only have 5 fingers as it is!
Click to expand...

Uh, don't worry about it. Just go slow. I have removed lots of primers and re primed. Win and Fed always fire. Wolf mostly not.....
If they had a good dent. They are safe. But, done.

You do know, that you have to "prime the primer"....The face of the primer is a little below the head. About a .001" or so....
If you look at an unprimed primer the anvil sticks out a little, from the cup. That anvil has to be seated/primed to the primer pocket.

Get this. and you don't damage the bullets. http://www.pmatool.com/pma-tool-bullet-puller-for-6mm-ppc-br-grendel/
dump powder, re charge, reseat bullet good to go....
 
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Kurtis Brown said:
You can pull the bullets and see if there is powder in the case. Another thing that might cause the primer not to ignite, is from oil in the case. Some primers are more sensitive to being killed by oil or water , depending on the brand of primer. Take a Q tip and dry out the bottom of the brass if that is the issue. Make double sure that you are not sticking a bullet in the barrel if one of those rounds doesn't go all the way off. We need all the benchrest shooters that we can get.
Click to expand...

Old wives tale. There is a thin membrane on the compound. Keeps powder dry. I tried the water and oil contamination. Let em sit for a week.
They still fired.
 
What brand

nksmfamjp said:
So, yesterday, I had 2 in 10 that wouldn’t fire. I sized them just enough to close the bolt handle without force. I seated to where I was 0.001” shorter than the click from primary extraction.

It was cold at the range. I don’t think there is grease in the firing pin area, but maybe by the cocking piece...I’m checking that tonight. Firing pin protrusion looks 0.030” -0.040”, but I haven’t measured.

Other thoughts? I hit these primers 5-10 times before giving up. I hate loosing brass, but I won’t work on a hit primer. I only have 5 fingers as it is!
Click to expand...



Of primers were you using, CCI BR4 or 450? And were the primers seated with a slight crush?? WD
 
WyleWD said:
Of primers were you using, CCI BR4 or 450? And were the primers seated with a slight crush?? WD
Click to expand...

The primers were CCI 400’s. I’m holding the 450’s as an option for when I go to accuracy loads. Using CFE223 also as a fireform powder.

I seat with the K&M tool. I adjust to where I can seat by feel and seat one to a slight crush. Then I set it to the setting when the handle touches the body. I get a slight “crush” on each one. It seems quit consistent in appearance and feel.
 
sorry but poor decision.
lets start with some basics
bullets and cases are inert...very stable tho some targets disagree.
powder is FLAMABLE....NOT AN EXPLOSIVE( READ THE LABEL)
a primer is an EXPLOSIVE the only real touchy part of reloading.
but it is an IMPACT explosive. it needs to be hit to fire.
id you wait 30/60 seconds after pulling the trigger, take the case home pull the bullet, dump/recycle the powder and remove the primer...
since it is an IMPACT explosive, you need to PUSH it out not bang nor hit it.
standard reloading die, up one turn or less and most likely it will push out the primer IF you cycle the handle slow and smoothly.
i have re-used primers that were removed.
dont be throwing away good brass.
live and learn

nksmfamjp said:
Left them at range in the trash.
Click to expand...
 
I agree, hate losing the cases. I only have five fingers though, so, I’ll scrap hit brass.

I checked firing pin protrusion and came up with 0.050” - 0.060”....I forget now.

I checked for dirt, grease in the bolt shroud. There was some. I think the Hornady cleaner/lube got it clean and lubed.

I may have found my issue. By sizing to fit the gun, then neck turning, I’m pretty sure I created poor case fit to the chamber. Using fired brass, I backed it out quite a bit to achieve just enough with a turned neck.

So, I think I will FL Size with type S SB die, expand on K&M mandrel, trim, neck turn, the FL Size again. That should get things right. The change is in the FL Die setting. It is quite a bit longer, I think.
 
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nksmfamjp said:
I agree, hate losing the cases. I only have five fingers though, so, I’ll scrap hit brass.

I checked firing pin protrusion and came up with 0.050” - 0.060”....I forget now.

I checked for dirt, grease in the bolt shroud. There was some. I think the Hornady cleaner/lube got it clean and lubed.

I may have found my issue. By sizing to fit the gun, then neck turning, I’m pretty sure I created poor case fit to the chamber. Using fired brass, I backed it out quite a bit to achieve just enough with a turned neck.

So, I think I will FL Size with type S SB die, expand on K&M mandrel, trim, neck turn, the FL Size again. That should get things right. The change is in the FL Die setting. It is quite a bit longer, I think.
Click to expand...

If that is a Redding SB die. You have about .005" of length to play with. For $50 Redding will polish the rim.
After about 9-10 shots the shoulder will not be bumped. Polish the base of the die with 600 Emery cloth. Make a figure 8, while sanding.
Keep measuring the die. Start small. Clean and reassemble the die. Try the brass. Eventually you will have a custom die for that rifle and barrel chamber.
On mine it took .001". Perfect fit now. Then with new barrels, I got a Harrel die.
I have tried other dies. But, the brass is happy with that Harrel die.....My reamer might be different than yours.....

Hope that helps.

Ya know with all the BR shooters in Ohio, you should be able to hook up with someone. Kelby's can't be too far....
 
To the original poster on this thread

zippy06 said:
Hope that helps.

Ya know with all the BR shooters in Ohio, you should be able to hook up with someone. Kelby's can't be too far....
Click to expand...

Just a thought here based on zippy06's great advice and response..... The current NBRSA president, Jack Neary, is instituting a mentor program in benchrest shooting. He's located in northern Ohio and very approachable, and puts on some great shooting classes from time to time. Here's a link to his contact information and more about his mentor program in the NBRSA if you're interested. WD

https://www.nbrsa.org/mentor-volunteers/
 
wylewd said:
just a thought here based on zippy06's great advice and response..... The current nbrsa president, jack neary, is instituting a mentor program in benchrest shooting. He's located in northern ohio and very approachable, and puts on some great shooting classes from time to time. Here's a link to his contact information and more about his mentor program in the nbrsa if you're interested. Wd

https://www.nbrsa.org/mentor-volunteers/
Click to expand...
i think a mentor is great but fter 1st group no one should be behindthe firing line with sp[oting scope. Not anyone who is a competor.
 
The NBRSA Mentor program is set up so novice shooters can meet with an experienced Benchrest shooter at a convenient range in order to learn the basics of Benchrest Shooting. This would cover condition reading, bench technique, load development and other such items that will strip away some of the yesteryear surrounding extreme accuracy shooting.

It has nothing to do with coaching a shooter during a Match.

I am a Mentor for the Gulf Coast Region, my home range is The Tomball Gun Club.
 
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Butch most folks do just that including myself and one can learn allot by doing just that and I too am a competitor myself.
 
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