6 mm Reamer

M

max.burgess

Guest
I would think there are more than one 6 mm
PPC reamer design out there . I was wondering
witch one is best for 65 &.68 gr. bullets . Thank you
Max Burgess
 
That's a tough one

The main thing is a reamer that will match your sizing die. What I mean by that is that your sizing die will squeeze the brass just the right amount to fit your chamber without over working the brass, and also no "click" on extraction. Neck diameter is a personal choice. Free bore length of .035 to .055 is what I use. Depends on what bullet your shooting. Some use zero free bore.

Richard Brensing
 
Thank Richerd

I read on some forum years ago that there was a reamer design that some of the gunsmiths youse ( Dwight Scott and Kelbie. ) it had a number like 36.or something.
 
They use different ones for different situations. No telling how many hundreds of ppc reamers are out there. No telling how many have dwight scott or tony boyers name on em. With a ppc its best to find a winning rifle builder and let them use their proven reamer on it. No need to buy your own in this game as much as it changes
 
I would think there are more than one 6 mm
PPC reamer design out there . I was wondering
witch one is best for 65 &.68 gr. bullets . Thank you
Max Burgess

I am using Barts 68 BT , Billy is chambering for me with a reamer he has designed for this bullet, or bullet for this reamer.
This is what I am doing. It is working.
Bill Greene
 
And many reamers do NOT cut the leade.
A separate reamer is used for that step.

Find a good gunsmith and let them use their reamers.
 
PPC Reamer Dimesnion Comparisons.jpg If you are planning on shooting a lot, like for a few years. You can easily go through 2-6 barrels each season depending if you plan on being competitive.
In that situation buy your own reamer even if you plan on using a gunsmith as opposes to doing it yourself. Many shooters buy a reamer and their gunsmith keeps it and uses it only on barrels that customer orders.

The reason you need a committed reamer is so you can adapt everything to that chamber. Sizing die, brass neck diameter,etc. Before you order a reamer, figure out what bullet you plan to shoot most them pick a reamer with the correct freebore length for that bullet. The bullet maker can give you that info. For example if you plan on shooting 63-65 grain 6mm boat tails on a 0.790" jacket you can't use a reamer over about 0.020" long freebore . If you plan on shooting 68 grain flat base bullets you may want to go as long as about 0.085". For an all around chamber USE A FREEBORE LENGTH OF 0.035-0.050".


.
 
Last edited:
The guys I chamber for

own the reamer. That way every bbl they get is exactly the same as the previous. It has worked out very well for them and for me. They will tell me what bullet they are planning on using and will make the FB to that spec. If they change their setup from that, then we might get another reamer ground.
Again, you want a reamer that will match your sizing die. That is a big deal.

Richard Brensing
 
Opposite of the above... one of my recommendations to any new shooter who is serious about being competitive in short range BR: wear out the barrel the comes on your first rifle, but buy your own reamer before you start buying more barrels or other knick-knacks. One of the biggest factors in being competitive is having a chamber/brass/die combination that is consistent. You will constantly be chasing problems like hard bolt lift, clicking, hard bolt close, and upsetting the gun in the bags if you don't have good fitting components. This is easiest way to solve this is by starting with a your own reamer, a consistent chambering method, and a custom or semi-custom die specifically matched to your chamber with your reamer.

Likewise, I see guys with a half-dozen or more reamers -- doesn't quite make sense to me unless they have spent an equal amount of effort finding dies to match.

The details of the reamer are practically irrelevant -- pick a neck size, free-bore length, lead angle, and overall cartridge length from the any of the common values or come up with your own magic formula. The important thing will be finding the die that matches the resulting chamber. Then life becomes a search for lot(s) of bullets the work well in that setup.

At the molecular level, one could design a reamer/die combination around a specific bullet made on a specific die with specific jackets, but most of us do not take take consistency to that level. We shoot what we can find so changing lots/brands/shapes/weights of bullets means the reamer won't be exactly as custom as we sometimes wish it was. Don't worry about it. The .001" that it costs is nothing compared to the .100" or .200" that a wind change is worth.

Rod
 
Wow,OK

I didn't realize I thought on a molecular level. But I AM looking for every last .001 I have lost match's with .001 or less. Other than that I don't see anything opposite, a good die, reamer, chamber fit was the main thing I was trying to get across as were you (I think)
That's the joy of BR, there's several ways to skin at cat.

Richard
 
the same

Thatsthe deal . I want all of my barrels chambered with the same reamer .I shoot Barts 68 gr. Flat base bullets .
 
Sorry Richard about the 'opposite' thing... like you, I was just offering an alternative viewpoint to the previous posts that mentioned using the gunsmith's reamer.

Rod
 
I with you

Rod. That's just what I tell the guys, you go to all that work getting the sizing die to fit a reamer that you don't even own is just plain nuts! If they want to try something different I aways try to make sure the reamer is ground to the same specs on the body. That's where the issue is in my mind Overall, have had pretty good sucess it getting that accomplished.

Richard

BTW, are you back on the tuner stuff again?
 
I'll be running a tuner again next year. I was doing a lot of testing different components and equipment this year -- NF and Marsh scopes, LT powders, and three barrels that I bought lightly used. The barrels were shooting well, and they were too skinny on the muzzle end to thread for my Beggs tuner, so I shot them bare. The process made me focus on tuning with the powder measure and seating depth again. That had me stretching my comfort zone which I needed to do -- was getting into a funk from not making the necessary adjustments when I shot in unfamiliar conditions.
 
Waste of money for several reasons.

Do explain.

By using the finish reamer for just the last few thousandths of an inch a better surface finish is achieved.

A roughing reamer can also be used to make a body die with more precision that short reaming with a finisher.

Limiting final reaming passes to barely a few thousandths has been a long term industrial practice for achieving a higher quality and precision surface finish.
 
Depends what your

indicating on. I dial in the throat area, drill with a bit, indicate again, bore with a boring bar and finish with the chamber reamer. Don't need a rougher for that. I have tried alot of different methods and I have a lower percentage of "dogs" doing it this way. Not saying a rougher followed by a finisher won't work, it will. But I don't think it's the best way. (My opinion)

Richard
 
indicating on. I dial in the throat area, drill with a bit, indicate again, bore with a boring bar and finish with the chamber reamer. Don't need a rougher for that. I have tried alot of different methods and I have a lower percentage of "dogs" doing it this way. Not saying a rougher followed by a finisher won't work, it will. But I don't think it's the best way. (My opinion)

Richard

Time is money.
You can rough out less and use the roughing reamer in less time than indicating and boring and indicating again.

While some indutry models are not as applicable as others using a final reamer to remove as little as possible has been tried tested and works.
Over and over.
 
No, you got it wrong

the time is spent making a BR bbl with a Capital "B" I'm not turning these things out like sausages just to get them out the door. Do what ever suits your fancy.

Richard
 
Back
Top