C
CHeetahman
Guest
I have came up on a sweet deal for a 6 BRX. I have a 6BR so I have all the equipment needed to reload, However I can't find any info on forming the brass or is it just a fireform deal? The chamber in a no turn.
This is a great round.... maybe the "best" improved 6BR IMO. At least one of the most user friendly. It rivals the 22 DAsher for pure-dee ingenuity 
You will still need to form a false shoulder though to fireform. A step in the neckturning if it's a tight-neck, a neck-up, then neck down for headspace if it's a no-turn.
Just accept the fact that a "long-seated bullet" will NOT hold the case back for fireforming and use a method which gives solid shoulder support for your fireforming.
al
You will still need to form a false shoulder though to fireform. A step in the neckturning if it's a tight-neck, a neck-up, then neck down for headspace if it's a no-turn.
Just accept the fact that a "long-seated bullet" will NOT hold the case back for fireforming and use a method which gives solid shoulder support for your fireforming.
al
C
CHeetahman
Guest
Al
This is a no turn so can you explain what all is involved (tools etc) in the necking down process.
This is a no turn so can you explain what all is involved (tools etc) in the necking down process.
CHeetahman,
You must run the new brass over a 6.5 or 7mm expander mandrel or expander ball to neck it up. I recently used a 25-06 Redding die for this procedure, just ran the BR cases up over the tapered ball and back off. Then you run it back into the 6BR sizer juuuust far enough that it chambers with firm resistance. Trial and error is the order of the day for this part, and you'll find that your first "setup case" where you screw in... and in... and in....... until it finally closes........... will be DIFFERENT than running them in with one shot. So DO NOT just set your one case and then blissfully run 20-30 cases through at that setting. After you've got the idea always check a case or two for fit when sizing them in one step. Only THEN can you do the 20-30 cases.
GREASE YOUR BOLT LUGS
Set the headspace so that the bolt must be "palmed" closed firmly. This ensures that the case is planted firmly against the bolt face AND WILL STAY THERE thru the firing cycle.
The fireformed cases will FALL out, the bolt will open with no resistance
suh-WEEET!
And will shoot like gangbusters.
al
You must run the new brass over a 6.5 or 7mm expander mandrel or expander ball to neck it up. I recently used a 25-06 Redding die for this procedure, just ran the BR cases up over the tapered ball and back off. Then you run it back into the 6BR sizer juuuust far enough that it chambers with firm resistance. Trial and error is the order of the day for this part, and you'll find that your first "setup case" where you screw in... and in... and in....... until it finally closes........... will be DIFFERENT than running them in with one shot. So DO NOT just set your one case and then blissfully run 20-30 cases through at that setting
. After you've got the idea always check a case or two for fit when sizing them in one step. Only THEN can you do the 20-30 cases.GREASE YOUR BOLT LUGS
Set the headspace so that the bolt must be "palmed" closed firmly. This ensures that the case is planted firmly against the bolt face AND WILL STAY THERE thru the firing cycle.
The fireformed cases will FALL out, the bolt will open with no resistance
suh-WEEET!
And will shoot like gangbusters.
al
G
gonehunting378
Guest
i beleive it is "k&m" but not sure, makes a little carbide expander button in different sizes. it fits a redding bushing die, and just gets trapped in by the standard button. i got mine from russ haydon, i use one in .257 for my dasher. it works nice, no lube needed, doesnt gallup at all, real smooth.
tom
tom
V
voldoc02
Guest
Al, I agree with you
about the fireforming method of necking up then down
for good case support. I do this w/ all my no-turn rifles.. I got a new 6BRX coming soon w/ a .268 neck.. How do I handle this?? Do I turn the neck before fireforming?? if so how do I know how far down??
advise
thanks
Doc Stone
about the fireforming method of necking up then down
for good case support. I do this w/ all my no-turn rifles.. I got a new 6BRX coming soon w/ a .268 neck.. How do I handle this?? Do I turn the neck before fireforming?? if so how do I know how far down??
advise
thanks
Doc Stone
G
gonehunting378
Guest
hopefully someone thar shoots a tighter neck will chime in here. but with my 271 neck dasher i turn it first, and try to shoot for about .248, as the dasher spec neck length is .246. but this is just a cleanup, 268 might be a whole different animal.
tom
tom
F
flatlander
Guest
I initially used a Redding tapered expander button that replaces the stock expander on the decapping/expander spindle of my Dasher die. IIRC, doing it this way meant I had to go clear up to a .264" neck. I finally bought a Sinclair expander die with a .257" mandrel, figuring it's a little easier on necks than going clear out to .264".
Going the false shoulder route results in very little runout - both in the loaded FF ammo, and with the formed case. Dasher FF ammo shoots plenty good enough to be used in 600yd. prone HP matches - sure beats wasting expensive components & barrel life just to form cases, and I'd expect the BRX to do just as well while fireforming.
Going the false shoulder route results in very little runout - both in the loaded FF ammo, and with the formed case. Dasher FF ammo shoots plenty good enough to be used in 600yd. prone HP matches - sure beats wasting expensive components & barrel life just to form cases, and I'd expect the BRX to do just as well while fireforming.
Yo Doc,
You've got several options.
To be really efficient, try this:
True the necks up perty good by running them thru a die with the expander ball in place and turn the necks ONLY ENOUGH to act as a false shoulder. In other words, headspace on the step in the neck.
I know from experience that this works fantastic for .262 and .266nks but I'm not sure that it'll work for the .268.
BUT!!!!!................ THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!!
DO NOT under any conditions let the base of your bullet extend down past or "below" the stepped neck. I DO NOT KNOW whether that small step will actually hold or whether it will jam forward and crimp a ring in the neck. IF it slips forward and there's no bullet in it, no big deal, it just didn't work out but if it slips and crimps onto the bullet you'll get a possibly damaging pressure spike. At the least you'll have no chance of making consistent brass.
A second easy way is simply to neckturn the brass clear back to the 6BR shoulder. Now spander it up and down to make the false shoulder and fire away. There is no downside to having some thinned brass in the shoulder.
Another way that'll probably be 'WAYYYY more effort than most are willing to expend is to neck up for the false shoulder and then down but leave off the expander ball........... in other words neck down until the neck fits into your .268, I'm just guessing that your die will do this. I use a factory 6BR die for my necking down and mine brings the neck down past .268. I've even necked further down before using smaller bushings. You CAN use a bushing die for this in this case. You might though have to start the neck with the 6BR die.
ANYWAY, figure it out and neck down until you get your fit WITH NO BULLET.
Now blow the case out using 2400, Clays, Bullseye or whatever pistol or shotgun powder you've got a lot of.
I use this method a lot because I'm big on hammering out my necks before I neckturn. IMO brass right out of the box is hopelessly crooked........I try to pop it out to size, sometimes even cull it, before going thru the labor of neckturning on a lump of putty. If you DO find yourself to be as masochistic as I'm and you DO decide to try this method I'll describe it in detail, just ask.
(You may wish you hadn't )
al
You've got several options.
To be really efficient, try this:
True the necks up perty good by running them thru a die with the expander ball in place and turn the necks ONLY ENOUGH to act as a false shoulder. In other words, headspace on the step in the neck.
I know from experience that this works fantastic for .262 and .266nks but I'm not sure that it'll work for the .268.
BUT!!!!!................ THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!!
DO NOT under any conditions let the base of your bullet extend down past or "below" the stepped neck. I DO NOT KNOW whether that small step will actually hold or whether it will jam forward and crimp a ring in the neck. IF it slips forward and there's no bullet in it, no big deal, it just didn't work out but if it slips and crimps onto the bullet you'll get a possibly damaging pressure spike. At the least you'll have no chance of making consistent brass.
A second easy way is simply to neckturn the brass clear back to the 6BR shoulder. Now spander it up and down to make the false shoulder and fire away. There is no downside to having some thinned brass in the shoulder.
Another way that'll probably be 'WAYYYY more effort than most are willing to expend is to neck up for the false shoulder and then down but leave off the expander ball........... in other words neck down until the neck fits into your .268, I'm just guessing that your die will do this. I use a factory 6BR die for my necking down and mine brings the neck down past .268. I've even necked further down before using smaller bushings. You CAN use a bushing die for this in this case. You might though have to start the neck with the 6BR die.
ANYWAY, figure it out and neck down until you get your fit WITH NO BULLET.
Now blow the case out using 2400, Clays, Bullseye or whatever pistol or shotgun powder you've got a lot of.
I use this method a lot because I'm big on hammering out my necks before I neckturn. IMO brass right out of the box is hopelessly crooked........I try to pop it out to size, sometimes even cull it, before going thru the labor of neckturning on a lump of putty. If you DO find yourself to be as masochistic as I'm and you DO decide to try this method I'll describe it in detail, just ask.
(You may wish you hadn't
)al
Ackley Improved
New member
On the BRX, I know standard 6mmBR dies can be used as a seater, and neck die, but I remember reading somewhere that a 243AI FL die can be used as a 6mmBRX FL die.
Just sizes the body, not the shoulder which you can make the neck die to.
Is this correct?
Cheers
AI
Just sizes the body, not the shoulder which you can make the neck die to.
Is this correct?
Cheers
AI
Ackley Improved,
Someone was pulling your leg.
Nothing on the .243AI matches the BRX and it's 'wayyy to long for the BR case to reach up for sizing. I can't imagine any use for a .243AI die regarding the BRX. In any case sizing JUST the body of a case without containing the shoulder during the operation does not work.
The genius of the BRX is that it uses standard 6BR dies........even the resizer.
al
Someone was pulling your leg.
Nothing on the .243AI matches the BRX and it's 'wayyy to long for the BR case to reach up for sizing. I can't imagine any use for a .243AI die regarding the BRX. In any case sizing JUST the body of a case without containing the shoulder during the operation does not work.
The genius of the BRX is that it uses standard 6BR dies........even the resizer.
al
M
MARKS
Guest
Doc,
Turn the neck first as above said. I have fireform using al the above ways. I like to jam a bullet and shoot. they shoot very good fireforming.
I first F/L using a 7mm-08 or 308 fl die for the base. then bump the shoulder with a Redding 6 BR boby die. then neck size with a Wilson. you could bump and neck size with a Reddig S f/l die set for the bump.
Mark Schronce
Turn the neck first as above said. I have fireform using al the above ways. I like to jam a bullet and shoot. they shoot very good fireforming.
I first F/L using a 7mm-08 or 308 fl die for the base. then bump the shoulder with a Redding 6 BR boby die. then neck size with a Wilson. you could bump and neck size with a Reddig S f/l die set for the bump.
Mark Schronce
P
Peter
Guest
Tesla,
Your brass is crooked
al
Huh? why?
Going out to the shop and getting out the dykem to see whats up.
Al, wont the pressure generated within the case pretty much slam it to the dimensions of the chamber and its relative squareness to the boltface?
Peter,
The first experiment you need to try is to just check for bullet setback.
To do it the quick and dirty way just pop out a primer and use a tiny punch to flatten the firing pin dint back out. Now you've got a "false primer" to reinsert. Now reload the case BUT LEAVE THE POWDER OUT........... measure the OAL, "fire" it and remeasure the OAL..........moved din't it
Now to do this well you must actually kill some primers, load them and "fire" them in the rifle..... you're doing all this to be SURE that Ol' Alinwa's not feeding you a line of BS. (He's been accused of this before )
NOW.........once you've established that the bullet DOES MOVE, that it can't hold the case back.........you must examine the firing cycle. What happens is that the firing pin drives the case forward. Not only that, it drives it forward DIFFERENTLY every time. The case STICKS forward and the only thing that can move to take up the slack is the casehead.....it streeeetches back until it stops on the boltface then bounces back a little.
The traditional "fix" for this is to grease your cases...........
And on and on it goes......from silly to sillier.
I've managed to even get the bullet to stick. I roughed both surfaces and JB Welded a bullet in place. I've super glued them and run huge (like .010) interference fit.....but even if you DO get the bullet to stick it'll be driven into the lands by the firing pin blow. 25-28lb ain't a love tap
I Know, I Know........ guys do it all the time and the guns "shoot good".........I'm not trying to change the world here. Just that when someone's tearing their hair out making fixtures to "square their caseheads" and guys are fighting banana'd brass and weird fliers THEN YOU MIGHT WANNA' TRY STRAIGHT BRASS!!!!
opinionsby
al
Worth what you paid
The first experiment you need to try is to just check for bullet setback.
To do it the quick and dirty way just pop out a primer and use a tiny punch to flatten the firing pin dint back out. Now you've got a "false primer" to reinsert. Now reload the case BUT LEAVE THE POWDER OUT........... measure the OAL, "fire" it and remeasure the OAL..........moved din't it
Now to do this well you must actually kill some primers, load them and "fire" them in the rifle..... you're doing all this to be SURE that Ol' Alinwa's not feeding you a line of BS. (He's been accused of this before
)NOW.........once you've established that the bullet DOES MOVE, that it can't hold the case back.........you must examine the firing cycle. What happens is that the firing pin drives the case forward. Not only that, it drives it forward DIFFERENTLY every time. The case STICKS forward and the only thing that can move to take up the slack is the casehead.....it streeeetches back until it stops on the boltface then bounces back a little.
The traditional "fix" for this is to grease your cases...........
And on and on it goes......from silly to sillier.
I've managed to even get the bullet to stick. I roughed both surfaces and JB Welded a bullet in place. I've super glued them and run huge (like .010) interference fit.....but even if you DO get the bullet to stick it'll be driven into the lands by the firing pin blow. 25-28lb ain't a love tap
I Know, I Know........ guys do it all the time and the guns "shoot good".........I'm not trying to change the world here. Just that when someone's tearing their hair out making fixtures to "square their caseheads" and guys are fighting banana'd brass and weird fliers THEN YOU MIGHT WANNA' TRY STRAIGHT BRASS!!!!
opinionsby
al
Worth what you paid
P
Peter
Guest
Uh oh
alinwa, preliminary measurements indicate movement, you may very well be onto sumthin'.
alinwa, preliminary measurements indicate movement
, you may very well be onto sumthin'.