6.5-284 chamber neck diammeter-need advice

de-prime

Good Morning Bob...I just got up ..hahah...ahhh the retired life...and noticed your post...I apologize for my breif answer earlier in this thread...I try to give the simplest and easiest ways to solve reloading/shooting problems that generally occour here among seasoned competitors and frequently forget that there are ocasionally inquirys that require additional info....to answer you further....if you have your reloading equipment,then you will have a method of removing the primer from the ctg. case, either fired or un-fired primers can be removed with the de-capping assembly of you particular reloading apparatus....((of course use adequate discretionary practices when removing live primers ))..whether it be of the full length or neck sizing variety , or just a simple de-capping pin....then you will have sized but un-primed cases that can be neck turned or reformed in any and all ways safely.
I apologize for the flippant and bak-woods answer earlier, I am guilty of over simplifying much of this complex and baffeling process of match grade cartridge assembly. Good Luck with your new bbl. and your shooting endeavours ....Roger
 
depriming

expiper,
Guess I sure exposed the fact that I'm a novice at this!
Didn't realize that a live primed case could be deprimed using just a dye with a depriming pin-guess I thought the depriming pin pressure on the anvil would fire off the primer--glad to hear I can get this done with my dye with acceptable safety-- (thinnk I'll wear safety glasses for this one anyways)
Thanks,
Bob
 
Bob,

Make sure when removing primers that you remove one, then get it away from whereever the others are. Primers are a serious gizmo, don't have one you just pushed-out laying where the next one is coming out because two or more going off makes for a chain reaction. If using a de-capping rod, whatever you do do not allow 2 to be in that de-capper at the same time. One's bad enough. Using your press is a much better idea but don't allow a primer catcher to catch these. Get them out of there.
 
I'm sure I'm being overly geeky here :eek: but I'd like to make sure that you're decapping with a regular threaded press.........I know of one person who was tapping out primers with Wilson dies and stuffed a primer deeply into his palm.

I would even be leery of decapping on an arbor press using the Wilson's.

If you're doing in in a conventional threaded press I don't think you'll ever get a popper unless you end up with a stack like 4mesh said. If you did it would be "safely" contained and directed. I've decapped quite a few this way, I wear the glasses AND my hearing protection AND put a towel over the press AND set the primers aside as they drop. I also avert my face and bring the handle down slowly......probably over-cautious but The Good Lord only gave me two eyes. And if all this extra hassle is a PITA it just teaches me to think more critically next go-round :)

As 4mesh stated, primers is serious business! Look on the 1000yd board to see where a primer alone blanked or "pierced" and blew the piece back inside the bolt locking it up.


OR, you can set them aside until your rifle gets home and then turn/fit them to the gun. Just remember, if the rifle is short-chambered (something that I for one require) and you have to bump the shoulders....... DON'T FORGET to completely remove the decapping assembly from the die before you shoulder bump!


al
 
Fingers and eyes intact!

Thanks for the help- I just finished depriming 85 LIVE primers- I put all of them in a glass of water, then out the door. -- I wore safety glasses, and covered the press with a towel and removed them with the press (Rock chucker) SLOWLY, with as little pressure as possible.
It all went very smoothly-- and I've saved 85 Lapua once-fired brass-THANKS!
I examined a couple of the ones I removed under high mag and there did not appear to be any dammage to the anvil/primer- I was somewhat surprised by this since the removal operation seemed like a firing pin (decapping pin in this case) pushing on the anvil from the inside.
Even though this works- I still prefer to chamber the primed brass and fire off the primer in a rifle chamber---
I am aware of the power of primers-- I once had a "squib" round in a pistol-- cheap amo- and the cartridge had a primer and bullet, but no powder. When I fired the pistol I heard a small "pop" and fortuantely stopped firing. The primer force (NO powder) drove the bullet (S&W .40) half way down the 3.5" barrel where it was very firmly stuck-- I had to pound it out with a brass rod.
--Guess I've been lucky with primers so far- but also careful!:)
 
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